Please help with shedule

[Vicki M]

Hi,

I have a Paragon Fusion 10 kiln with a 12 key controller.
I want to fuse these nuggets I made onto this piece of sys96 glass I want it to be more than a tack fuse but not a full fuse. The piece is 10 inches across and single thickness.
The nuggets were made from sys96 1/2" by 1/2\' 2 pieces stacked.

Can someone please give me a schedule to use.

[img][/img]
Hope I have posted this picture correctly!

[JestersBaubles]

Try searching the internet for a "contour fuse" schedule.

Dana W.

[Laurie Spray]

Vicki.....
I would fire this to aroung 1410 in my kiln. Any higher and you will have problems with your single layer wanting to pull in. You will need to anneal well since there will be a difference in thicknesses.

[Vicki M]

Vicki.....
I would fire this to aroung 1410 in my kiln. Any higher and you will have problems with your single layer wanting to pull in. You will need to anneal well since there will be a difference in thicknesses.

Thanks Laurie, I put it in already with a top temp of 1440 it's only up to 860 now so I will set the alarm to 1400 and check it.

This is the schedule I programmed in.
R 300 T 300 H 10
R 300 T 1440 H Till desired effect (checking at 1400)
R 9999 T 900 H 30
R 200 T 800 H 10
R 300 T 100 H 0

Thanks again
Vicki

[Kevin Midgley]

Annealing?
A good suggestion to follow would be to get a copy of Stone's firing schedules for glass and read it cover to cover a few times.
You might be properly annealing this thick and thin piece but you might not be in your kiln under your firing conditions.

[Laurie Spray]

R 300 T 300 H 10 (this hold does nothing)
R 300 T 1410 H Till desired effect (checking at 1400)
R 9999 T 900 H 30 (I would anneal for 60 min....also the anneal for 96 is 960)
R 200 T 800 H 10
R 300 T 100 H 0 (no need....off at 800)

just what I would do

[Morganica]

First, I would recut the white base unless you want it to pull in (it will make a "lip" around the edge which might be attractive with that design, give it some dimension). It would be hard to fuse that decoration in very much without getting some pull-in.

If you want it to stay the same thickness throughout, though, outline the shape you want and add about an inch in each dimension. Cut that out, add your decoration, and fire. When it comes out, cut it to the exact shape--that avoids the pull-in problem and keeps everything the same thickness. You can firepolish the edges, or finish them with wet-dry sandpaper.

Annealing schedule will depend on how raised the decoration winds up being--it will be harder to gauge since you've got a single layer base. If you take it to full fuse, or even to barely above the base, you might wind up with some holes, so there's a limit as to just how melted-in this is going to get. If, when you check, the decoration left above the base is still the thickness of the base (or thicker), you may want to slow down your anneal.

Personally, I don't like the term "contour-fuse," because most full fuses are "contours" to some degree--they'll be shaped more like a pizza crust with slightly thicker mounds wherever the decoration lies. It's hard to get a perfectly flat fuse without either overfiring the glass, making it thicker than 6mm and damming it, or doing some kind of pressed-glass process. But that's just me.

[Vicki M]

R 300 T 300 H 10 (this hold does nothing)
R 300 T 1440 H Till desired effect (checking at 1400)
R 9999 T 900 H 30 (I would anneal for 60 min....also the anneal for 96 is 960)
R 200 T 800 H 10
R 300 T 100 H 0 (no need....off at 800)

just what I would do

Well it was too late to change the temp to 960 but I did add the extra time at 900. The piece looked how I wanted it to look at 1355. I will just wait now until tomorrow to take it out and see how it looks.
Thank again for the advice. I am keeping it for future reference

[Vicki M]

First, I would recut the white base unless you want it to pull in (it will make a "lip" around the edge which might be attractive with that design, give it some dimension). It would be hard to fuse that decoration in very much without getting some pull-in.

If you want it to stay the same thickness throughout, though, outline the shape you want and add about an inch in each dimension. Cut that out, add your decoration, and fire. When it comes out, cut it to the exact shape--that avoids the pull-in problem and keeps everything the same thickness. You can firepolish the edges, or finish them with wet-dry sandpaper.

Annealing schedule will depend on how raised the decoration winds up being--it will be harder to gauge since you've got a single layer base. If you take it to full fuse, or even to barely above the base, you might wind up with some holes, so there's a limit as to just how melted-in this is going to get. If, when you check, the decoration left above the base is still the thickness of the base (or thicker), you may want to slow down your anneal.

Personally, I don't like the term "contour-fuse," because most full fuses are "contours" to some degree--they'll be shaped more like a pizza crust with slightly thicker mounds wherever the decoration lies. It's hard to get a perfectly flat fuse without either overfiring the glass, making it thicker than 6mm and damming it, or doing some kind of pressed-glass process. But that's just me.

Thanks for the reply. The piece was already in the kiln so I am just waiting till tomorrow morning to take it out.