my first fused pendants...

[jeremy bizzano]

Here's a few of my first fused pendants.
http://www.glassartists.org/Gal4181_a_f ... cently.asp
Any CC would be much appreciated. I've ordered some molds for plates and bowls and can't wait for them to get here so I can try some bigger things. I do lampworking and have been using my Paragon F-120 to fuse when I'm not behind the torch. I love the kiln for lampworking because the front loading door is easy access. But for fusing it's a rea PITA to try and put my kiln shelf in without my designs sliding. I'm thinking of getting the Skutt GM814 or GM1014 just for fusing, would these be good?

[paulajane]

Jeremy -

I have the Skutt GM 814 and really love it. I fuse mainly jewelry and plaques.

Paula

[Judy Schnabel]

Jeremy,

Your pendants are beautiful.

One little helpful hint on keeping your glass together -- When I'm making earrings I am totally anal on making each a mirror image of the other so it's imperative that the glass stays put. Here's what I do. I lay out my base with a drop of fuser's glue then I add all the little dichro pieces onto the base with another drop of fuser's glue. I leave this to set up for several hours or until it is totally dry. Then I put another drop of glue on and add the cap. I let this set overnight. If I'm not impatient I'll have no problem with the glass shifting when I place it in the kiln.

Judy

[Nancy Juhasz]

Jeremy, Am I understanding that you are building on the shelf? If correct I think you want to look at the kiln in person before you buy it. I have the Skutt GM 814, what I don't like is that I have to tilt the shelf to get it in below the pyrometer or what ever that thing is that sticks into the kiln through the wall. I asked the repair man if he could back it up but no such luck. I have a love hate relationship with this kiln, love it for some things hate it for others. Nanc

[jeremy bizzano]

Thank you all for you input! After some more research I'm leaning towards a Paragon Fusion 10 or Fusion 8. Anybody have any experience with those?

[bkrgrl@aol.com]

Jeremy, your cabs are beautiful, I have been trying to make some, they don't look like yours. I am a newbie. Some advice .please. how many layers, what size? How Much dichro, do you use really small pieces of it ? I can't even find a really good book about it and how do you put your holes in ? Hope you can help me thanks gayle

[jeremy bizzano]

Thanks Gayle, mine have double rolled thick black backs. Then I put a mandrel with bead release (I have a lot from lampworking, same thing as kiln wash) on the thick black. Then I just put one or two layers of dichro down and that's it.

[bkrgrl@aol.com]

Thank you Jeremy, now what do you mean by double rolled glass? also how big are your cabs. Is there like a standard size? I can't believe they are your first-my first are kind of sorry looking . I tried to set the holes with some fiber blanket rolled up-and it looks awful and is rough around the hole. I will try yopur method, I know what mandrells are. thank you.Gayle

[jeremy bizzano]

It's just thick glass, twice as thick as the thin sheets.

[Jackie Beckman]

It's just thick glass, twice as thick as the thin sheets.

I could be mistaken, and perhaps it depends on what sort of glass one is using, but double-rolled glass doesn't mean twice as thick. (At least with Bullseye) Double rolled means "less bumpy" because it's been "smooshed" twice but it's the same thickness as single rolled. (these are all very technical terms, aren't they? smooshed, less bumpy) Thin is . . . well, thin. (1.5 mm and ending in the numerical suffix 50) But the standard thickness glass, 3mm, can come in either single rolled (ending in 00) or double rolled (ending in 30) but they are both 3mm. Machine rolled is 3mm also, not any thicker or thinner then double or single rolled - all of the standard thickness BE glass is 3mm, no matter if its single rolled, double rolled or machine rolled.

Just to make this post a little more confusing, BE has just come out with a new machine rolled clear called TEKTA that will be available in 3mm, 4mm, or 6mm and in sizes ranging from 24 x 24 all the way up to 40 x 80. (Very exciting!) And, it's being made right at BE this time. They've added on to the factory specifically for it's production. (The 3mm version will end in 83 followed by another number to indicate size - for example 1100-83F-24. In this number the 1100 stands for the "color" in this case, the new TETKA, the 83 stands for 3mm, the F is for fusible, and the 24 indicates the sie as 24" x 24")

If my double rolled / single rolled explaination isn't clear, let me know, I'll be happy to explain further, or Mary Kay or Lani can jump in, I'm sure.

Jackie

[jeremy bizzano]

Thanks for setting me straight Jackie. After I made that post I was looking around at some glass supplier links and saw some thin double-rolled glass and thought my assumption was wrong.

Gayle- I used double rolled standard sheet.

[Bellknap]

Jeremy,
Those look great, especially proud since you are from Columbus, (me too) and from a lampworking background. Am I to understand you had a base glass and then the dichro...no cap? Another method I have seen to form a hole is to dip a wooden stick. like you use to barbeque kabobs with into the bead release and place on the glass. The little wood that is there will burn out and just leave you the hole.
I have a small Evenheat jewel box kiln. Good news, top loading and you can take it apart so you are placing your items exactly where you want them. Bad news it is small only 6" in diameter, great for beads and small things though. Lydia

[suzmary]

Hello, Jeremy, and, as usual, NICE WORK! I see your work on WC, and I admire your passion, which shows in everything you create.

I have a question about these cabs. I'm new to both fusing and lampwork, and can't say which I enjoy more, but I can do more with lampwork right now as my little rapid fire kiln is all I've got for now. Did you say that you use the standard thickness black base, then one or several layers of dichro, and that's it? Is there any clear cap on these cabs? Each one I've made without a clear cap really doesn't get that nice diffused, dreamy look of the shimmery dichro like yours look, more like glaring colors, etc. (Very technical terms here, too: dreamy, shimmery, glaring!) If yours don't have clear cap, how do you get that effect?

Please share your secret with a newbie, I'd be forever greatful!

Suz