ceramic shell

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Luiza
Posts: 81
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 4:50 pm
Location: Rio de Janeiro / Brazil

ceramic shell

Post by Luiza »

Hi
I´ve just finished a plaster/silica mould, around a wax model. The wax model was very tricky, and I´ve done 5 before I felt it was fine.
Now I´ll go to the lost wax step, but I´m afraid that the mould will crack during the casting. I´ve donne all by the book, but I´m still insecure.
Probabbly it´s a very stupid idea, but what will happen if I put my mould inside a ceramic mould, and fill the spaces left with more plaster/silica? The mould has a cilindrical form and I have a cilindrical ceramic mold just 1in larger.
Is it absurd?
Thanks
Luiza
charlie holden
Posts: 260
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 8:26 pm
Location: Atlanta

Post by charlie holden »

No, it is not absurd. Another thing you can do is fill in between the plaster and the clay with sand. You could also just build a box out of small kiln shelves or bricks, put some sand in the bottom, put your mold in and level it, then fill in around the mold with sand.

Age old advice -- cast a simple shape of similar size first so you don't ruin lots of work.
Luiza
Posts: 81
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 4:50 pm
Location: Rio de Janeiro / Brazil

Post by Luiza »

Thanks Charlie. I´ll try the sand - seems easier :D
I´ll remember your advice
Warm hug
Luiza
watershed
Posts: 166
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 1:44 am

Post by watershed »

IF you are retro-fitting, you could use a piece of steel (pipe if the mold is small enough) as the outer, fill with sand, then the plaster. Most of the guys in my shop are using steel outers, instead of chicken wire etc, to contain the plaster. But steel is cheap here, and we have benders and welders. And most of the kilns are roll-outs, so not much heavy lifting.


Greg
Lauri Levanto
Posts: 270
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 7:33 am
Location: Halikko, Finland

Making a saggar

Post by Lauri Levanto »

Recently we have seen advices of constructing a box
around the mold. Ceramics, steel has been suggested, as well as Skamoil boards that you can joint with screws.

My kiln has unprotected elements, so I do not feel
confident with large steel saggars.

I have been thinking about ceramic (bisquit) boards
of different size that I can assembe with screws
to corner pieces.

Does that sound feasible?
What I need is a lot of one time saggars, so this kind of
modular construction is tempting.

-lauri
charlie
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Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:08 pm

Post by charlie »

you won't be able to screw bisqued ceramic pieces. you'll have to make the molds as a single piece, unless you're going to prop them against each other and hold them there with something else (sand bed in a box, cut up kiln shelves, bricks, etc).
Nikki ONeill
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Location: Silver Spring, MD
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Post by Nikki ONeill »

Charlie:
Will any sand do? Do you know if common "Play sand" from the hardware store will work for supporting molds as well as be suitable for small-scale sand casting.? I was wondering about organic content, if any.
Thanks.
Nikki
Luiza
Posts: 81
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 4:50 pm
Location: Rio de Janeiro / Brazil

Post by Luiza »

Nikki O'Neill wrote:Charlie:
Will any sand do? Do you know if common "Play sand" from the hardware store will work for supporting molds as well as be suitable for small-scale sand casting.? I was wondering about organic content, if any.
Thanks.
Nikki
Hi Nikki
I´ve been using sand for re-firing pieces that are already slumped, to fire polish. I use ordinary sand , and just sift it and put in the kiln to dry. If it works in this case, beeing in touch with the glass, it certainly will work for our new use...
Luiza
Nikki ONeill
Posts: 169
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 11:55 am
Location: Silver Spring, MD
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Post by Nikki ONeill »

Thank you Luiza. I didn't know sand could be used in this way.
Have a great weekend.
Nikki
charlie holden
Posts: 260
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 8:26 pm
Location: Atlanta

Post by charlie holden »

Play sand is fine for supporting molds. Anything organic will be long gone by the time the glass gets soft. It may have some iron or other minerals in it though, which may discolor the glass if you get to slumping temperature and the glass is touching the sand. If you want to be safer when you're sand casting get "Cleaned Sand" for mixing mortar. It's not much more expensive at all. Available at building supply places.

Or you can get Olivine sand from a foundry supply -- which has much less silica content and so is safer for your lungs.

BTW, I think I'm going to follow the advice of the "Mixing It With the Best" cd and start using Olivine instead of silica in my casting molds. Anything I can do to get away from silica.
Lauri Levanto
Posts: 270
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 7:33 am
Location: Halikko, Finland

Nuts and bolts

Post by Lauri Levanto »

Hi Charlie,
sorry my floppy English.
I was not going to fasten with screws but with
nuts and bolts. Not tightening too much, and premade holes big enough to allow thermal expansion.

-lauri
rodney
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Location: new mexico
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Post by rodney »

Hi Charlie,
sorry my floppy English.
I was not going to fasten with screws but with
nuts and bolts. Not tightening too much, and premade holes big enough to allow thermal expansion.

-lauri
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

what about wire, instead of the nuts and bolts

rodney
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