Building My Own Controller

molly · Post by **molly** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 8:01 am

Hi! I need some in depth instructions on how to make a controller for my older model cress kiln. It is about 1.5 feet square on the inside, & opens from the top, and I have fused some glass in it in the past, some pieces successfully, and some not. I think controlling the temperature will be helpful. I am now working full time, and have the money to enjoy this hobby, but I have FAR less TIME! Just wondering if anyone has built their own controller wiht any success. I would love a few pointers on this topic! Thanks in advance.

charlie holden · Post by **charlie holden** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 11:33 am

Click on the Centre DeVerre button above and by a plug in controller. I like the Bartlet. It doesn't make sense to build you own. Spend the time melting glass.

hoknok · Post by **hoknok** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 12:09 pm

yes, I agree with Charlie. I can see building a kiln but the controler is critical. Unless you know enough info on electricity and wiring, I would stay away from it. Too many things can go wrong with shorting outs, improper insulation and wire gauge, safety shut offs, etc....

Though I admire your guts!

Brad Walker · Post by **Brad Walker** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 12:19 pm

If you want to tackle building a controller, there's a list of places that sell parts and such on the Warm Glass site at: http://www.warmglass.com/Resources.htm#Kilnparts

Note the link to Tobler Glass toward the bottom of that section of the site -- this has complete instructions for building your own controller. It requires some skill, but is no where near rocket science.

molly · Post by **molly** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 7:58 pm

Thank you for the advice! I will go and look around for a controller now. Much easier than Having to figure out how to build my own! Thanks again

Jack Bowman · Post by **Jack Bowman** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:36 am

Build your own if you feel up to it. I build mine and wouldn't trade for anything out there. Less$$$ better warranty.

Jack

KILN-TEC · Post by **KILN-TEC** » Fri Nov 28, 2003 2:42 am

Check out KILN-TEC Controllers at http://www.kilntec.com. Let me know the amperage & voltage, I would be glad to give you a quote. I've been building controllers since 1994.
Even if you buy somewhere else, feel free to pick my brain. Bartlett makes two different circuit boards, the V6-CF, which is geared for ceramics & glass, and the RTC-1000, which is geared more towards glass (edit on the fly).
Rich Edelman KILN-TEC

Tony Smith · Post by **Tony Smith** » Fri Nov 28, 2003 9:00 am

KILN-TEC wrote:Check out KILN-TEC Controllers at http://www.kilntec.com. Let me know the amperage & voltage, I would be glad to give you a quote. I've been building controllers since 1994.
Even if you buy somewhere else, feel free to pick my brain. Bartlett makes two different circuit boards, the V6-CF, which is geared for ceramics & glass, and the RTC-1000, which is geared more towards glass (edit on the fly).
Rich Edelman KILN-TEC

They also make a four-program, 8-step, three button programmable controller (Model 3K).

Tony

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Fri Nov 28, 2003 11:48 am

For anybody considering building a controller, I heartily advise against it. Unless you have at least 7 years of fusing experience with controllers and are an electronic engineering genius.

There are many subtle functions programmed in to a good controller that the average person might not inderstand the need for.

What I would recommend doing is putting your own control system together using a Bartlett controller, a transformer, thermocouple, and relay. This involves gathering components and wiring them up yourself. It is much less expensive than buying a plug and play. I'm in the process of doing this myself for a project this winter. The results will be included in my kiln building book.

molly · Post by **molly** » Fri Nov 28, 2003 6:39 pm

I broke down and ordered a controller last week. It should be here any day now! I hope my fiancee can install it for me, as I am a real dummy when it comes to "non craft" chores. I WOULD, however, be interested in building a controller for my smaller kiln, once I fix the firebrick. Perhaps you experienced controller builders can help me out when the time comes. Don't know why calling you "control freaks" seemed appropriate.....HA! In this case, it would be a huge compliment!!!!

PaulS · Post by **PaulS** » Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:39 pm

Why you can't use the same controller for the two kilns?

Just swap over the thermocouple and power leads as necessary.

Colour-code the leads so you never forget which leads to disconnect and which ones to connect and there you go

.

molly · Post by **molly** » Sat Nov 29, 2003 10:23 pm

Not sure I'd know how to do that. Can you elaborate? You have really peaked my interest!!!

Jack Bowman · Post by **Jack Bowman** » Sat Nov 29, 2003 10:59 pm

You would start by tellong us the voltage and amperage requirements for each kiln.

Jack

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Sun Nov 30, 2003 1:14 am

I use one controller with 2 kilns now. I have 2 boxes that the controller is installed in to. Each is set up with it's own thermocouple and SCR relay. I pull the circuit boards out of the box and put them back in the other box, program and go. They all come out as one unit and plug back in.

molly · Post by **molly** » Sun Nov 30, 2003 9:41 am

My Cress top loading kiln is 115 volts, 15 amps. My smaller front loading kiln is really SMALL, with the inside measuring about 4" wide by 9" high, by about 5" deep. It has no specs, as I think it is a homemade one. I bought it second hand, so I really don't know. I have been all over the kiln, and there is no brand name or specs at all. Got the Cress second hand too, but it is in remarkably great shape. A little cracked firebrick here and there, but otherwise almost like new! Sorry I cannot be of any help with the smaller kiln, but I DO know it is either 155 or 120 volts, as it plugs into any polarized electrical outlet. ALso has a pyrometer on the front which goes up to 1500 degrees. Wish I could control the temperature DROP on that one, as my pieces always get a thermal shock on the way down. It has some gaps in the firebrick along the door, so I suspect that might be the problem. I have ordered some fiber blanket to line the door. Good idea or not? Any help on how to get this kiln to be a bit more useful? I would at least like to be able to use it for firepolishing. (though I am unsure of proper temps for firepolishing) Thanks!

KILN-TEC · Post by **KILN-TEC** » Sun Nov 30, 2003 2:23 pm

Molly:
Since both kilns are 115-120 volt, and both plug into the same standard 15 amp outlet, you can use one controller for both.
Firing kiln#1 - Plug controller into outlet, insert thermocouple into kiln, plug kiln#1 into controller. Fire! After cool down, controller shuts off, usually says "complete".
Firing kiln#2 - Unplug kiln#1, plug in kiln#2, remove thermocouple from #1 kiln and insert into #2 kiln. Fire!
Make sure the thermocouple is centrally located (does not have to be perfect). You may already have existing holes drilled or you can use peepholes if you wrap some fiber around the thermocouple, fiber plugs the rest of the peephole and keeps the thermocouple from touching the metal casing of your kiln.. Make sure the thermocouple is not touching the shelf or product.
I have three kilns and two controllers, do this all the time.
Rich Edelman KILN-TEC

PaulS · Post by **PaulS** » Sun Nov 30, 2003 2:54 pm

You got it Rick.

Sorry Molly, I didn't know how best to explain it, but Rick done a great job here.

All this will save you buying another controller.

Only thing to be aware of is that the kiln being fired must have the thermocouple fitted, and connected. So it will read the temperature of the kiln being fired.

Obvious I know but I nearly did it once, so painted the leads for kiln 'A' green and the leads for kiln 'B' blue.

Your smaller front-loader would be great for pendants. If it measures 4" wide by 9" high, can you lay it on its back so you can use a bigger shelf and get more in each firing?

You can use kiln cement to make good the cracks in the fire bricks. Clean out the crack a wee bit with an old electricians' screwdriver and brush the cement into the groove. If it is really runny you can use the same cement to adhere the fibre blanket strip you wanted to use for the door seal. Leave it to dry for a day before use.

Let us know how you get on and maybe post a picture?

.

Jack Bowman · Post by **Jack Bowman** » Sun Nov 30, 2003 3:58 pm

If you want to use two seperate thermocouples you can get a plug setup from an instrumentation shop. That way you will have one tc lead coming from the controller that will plug into the tc of the kiln you are using. The plugs must match the type of tc you are using, most likely K type.

Here's a picture.

http://www.asbheat.com/thermocouples_plugs.htm

Jack

molly · Post by **molly** » Mon Dec 01, 2003 8:11 am

I would love to post pictures of my kilns, as well as pics of my more successful pieces! But, alas, I do not know how to post pics either. (I am rather new here)....and it might be a while before I can post pics of the smaller kiln. The supplies I need to fix it have not arrived yet...but I WILL keep posting pics in mind....if any of you can help me to do that. I understand a bit of HTML, but each board's pic posting process is so different. Anyone?

Tom White · Post by **Tom White** » Tue Dec 02, 2003 9:49 am

One work-around for posting photos is to upload them to a free photo hosting service like photos.yahoo.com or shutterfly.com, set them up so anyone can view them (very important) then post a link to your phot os in your post to this boardlike this:http://photos.yahoo.com/tomwhite2
Readers can then click on the link to see the photos. I f you can place the photos on your own web site the link can be put into the body of your post here using the Img tags to have it show directly in your post to this board. Free hosting sites do not work well for this.

Best wishes,
Tom in Texas