Help!!!

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jvbs
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Help!!!

Post by jvbs »

I was draping a piece of glass over my stainless steel form like I've done about 10 times before. I brought it up to 600 slowly, then ramped it up to full. When I went to check it, the glass had broken and some of the pieces are touching and melted into my element coils on the side of the kiln. I tried to get them out while the coils were hot, but couldn't get some of them. What do I do now?????? Please tell me my kiln isn't ruined!
Valerie Adams
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Valerie Adams »

I've had good luck with using a diamond bit on a Dremel tool to grind off cool glass. Make sure your kiln is unplugged first!
And, I have a few bits of glass that have remained on my elements for the past four or five years without causing any problems.
jvbs
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Re: Help!!!

Post by jvbs »

Thank you!! I've been wanting to get a Dremel and diamond bits, now you've given me a really good reason.
DonMcClennen
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Re: Help!!!

Post by DonMcClennen »

I don't understand the "full" ramp up after 600F. ..that is asking for trouble.. What is the hurry?? Slow and steady for success!!
"The Glassman"
jvbs
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Re: Help!!!

Post by jvbs »

Hm, I am new to kiln working. Just bought my kiln in November, 2013. When I was searching for information on how to do things, one of the manufacturers sites (Bullseye, Uroboros, ??) I don't remember which, suggested slowly heating over the course of an hour to 600, then go to highest setting. When temp gets to 1400, start watching for the level of fusing, draping, slumping or casting you are aiming for, then flash cool to 1100 and let it sit and cool naturally to room temp. That's how I've been doing everything and never had a problem till this time. I just did another drape and it worked well. My kiln is a manual dial pyrometer, what is your suggestion? I want to learn to do the best I can with my creations so they last and serve for many years. I have a Studio Pro with side elements, none on top. The furniture shelf is 7" square.
JestersBaubles
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Re: Help!!!

Post by JestersBaubles »

When you mentioned "600", I was certain you meant 600 deg C, not F.

I think you need to go back and read your schedules again. Normally, it's a conservative ramp up to 1100 deg F and hold. Then, depending upon what you are doing, you do a bubble squeeze or continue to ramp up (maybe a little less conservatively) until you get to process temperature. And 1400 deg F is WAY too high for slumping & draping.

I ramp to 1100, hold for 30, and then ramp to 1225 for draping or slumping. Often, by the time I get to 1225, I need little if any hold. Of course, it depends upon what you are draping over....

Dana W.
JestersBaubles
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Re: Help!!!

Post by JestersBaubles »

Also... :mrgreen:

You have no anneal in your firing schedule. You may get by with this for small jewelry pieces, but you are asking for trouble with anything much larger than about 4"-5".

If you want your pieces to "last for a long time", you won't achieve that with your current schedule, even if you think it is working OK for now.

Dana W.
jvbs
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Re: Help!!!

Post by jvbs »

Can you point me to a source to learn how to properly schedule my kiln work? It's very confusing.
jvbs
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Re: Help!!!

Post by jvbs »

I found this: http://www.fusedglass.org/tools/firing_schedules I guess it takes a very long time. I've been firing much faster. So the largest pieces I've made is about 4"x4" and 2 layers. Do I need to anneal these? When I flash cooled to 1100, it would then take 8 or 9 hours to cool to room temp. Most of the stuff I've made is jewelry cabochons, no larger than 1"x1"
Morganica
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Morganica »

jvbs, it would be a good idea to check out the tutorials on this website to learn about annealing: http://warmglass.com/tutorial

Then head over to Bullseye's website, and subscribe to their video education service. It's $39/year, and has lots of very good tutorials about how to do everything from cut glass to set up firing schedules for different things.
Cynthia Morgan
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JestersBaubles
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Re: Help!!!

Post by JestersBaubles »

jvbs wrote:I found this: http://www.fusedglass.org/tools/firing_schedules I guess it takes a very long time. I've been firing much faster. So the largest pieces I've made is about 4"x4" and 2 layers. Do I need to anneal these? When I flash cooled to 1100, it would then take 8 or 9 hours to cool to room temp. Most of the stuff I've made is jewelry cabochons, no larger than 1"x1"
Yes, fusing takes a long time. Fusedglass.org is a good place to start, and as Cynthia suggests, Bullseye also. I like the videos-- well worth the $40.

Dana W.
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