Super Spray and airbrush questions

[lissa]

Sorry, lots of questions all at once...

Most importantly, I would like to get an airbrush to apply super spray as a top coat, which airbrushes do you recommend for this and what features should I look for?

I saw in an earlier post that super spray need only be used in the hottest firing, I will be taking the piece to 1490 in two separate firings, should I top coat both times?

I plan to fuse two layers of transparent stripes, top and bottom layers going in opposite directions, do I need to super spray edges on both layers for the first full fuse firing?

Lastly, those of you who do not use a top coat, how do you avoid devit haze along your seams where pieces meet?

Thank you so much in advance, have a super weekend!

lissa.

[Lisa Allen]

Sorry, lots of questions all at once...

Most importantly, I would like to get an airbrush to apply super spray as a top coat, which airbrushes do you recommend for this and what features should I look for?

I saw in an earlier post that super spray need only be used in the hottest firing, I will be taking the piece to 1490 in two separate firings, should I top coat both times?

I plan to fuse two layers of transparent stripes, top and bottom layers going in opposite directions, do I need to super spray edges on both layers for the first full fuse firing?

Lastly, those of you who do not use a top coat, how do you avoid devit haze along your seams where pieces meet?

Thank you so much in advance, have a super weekend!

lissa.

A little Badger air brush works fine for spraying Super Spray, costs about 20 bucks from Michaels. One application is enough, no need to recoat.

For devit on the seams, I just fire and plan to sandblast the whole piece and take it up again to get whatever finish I am looking for. If you haven't ground the edges of your strips, you probably won't see too much devit though. All of my seams that end up scumming after being fired are the edges that have been sawed or ground.

Lisa

[lissa]

Perfect, I am going to Michael's tomorrow, how nice to know the Badger is fine, we find most every time we need any equipment the price makes us gasp!
Unfortunately all of my edges have been ground, I'll have to see if the 'scum' is a problem, I plan to paint super spray on the ground edges before fitting them together.

Thanks so much for your response.

lissa.

[Nancy Juhasz]

An warm glass instructor told me to use wet sandpaper and water to sand the edges of the ground glass. Here is what I do. Immediately after I am done grinding the piece of glass I toss it in a pan of water until I get several pieces then I sand the edges of the glass under water in the pan then again under running water. This works really well, I get very little if any scum on the edges. My husband helped me grind a while back and didn't put the pieces in water immediately but did go soak them then sand like I described and we got scum. I think you have to keep the edge surface wet so the tiny glass particles don't get a chance to dry on the glass.
Nanc

[lissa]

I always throw them right into a little tub of water until I wash them with a scrubby sponge, but I will try the wet sandpaper. What grit do you use?

Also, I have had less of a problem with scum now that I use a finer grinder head, we had a very coarse head on there for a while, lot of scum even with soaking.

thanks! lissa

[Nancy Juhasz]

What I just bought was extra fine. You know I think you have eliminated part of the problem by using a fine or worn out bit on the grinder. A tip I learned in cold glass was to use a wornout grinder bit assuming the grit was still in tact instead of buying a fine grit bit. Nanc