using irid
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using irid
I have been using Bullseye 90 and dichro to make jewelry pieces. I have sheets of irid that came in a Bullseye pack that I now want to use. I am so accustomed to the flashiness of dichro that the irid sheets seem very palin. I would appreciate comments on using irid in design. How shall I approach this? Thanks so much.
Ruth Powers
Glass Silver Dance Dogs
Glass Silver Dance Dogs
Re: using irid
You can resist, cut, and blast, or dremel, designs into the irid on top or bottom, or both sheets of a sandwich of a dark irid and a cap of clear irid.ruthpowers wrote:I have been using Bullseye 90 and dichro to make jewelry pieces. I have sheets of irid that came in a Bullseye pack that I now want to use. I am so accustomed to the flashiness of dichro that the irid sheets seem very palin. I would appreciate comments on using irid in design. How shall I approach this? Thanks so much.
Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
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Here is a link with some pendants using Brock's technique. The effect may be more subtle than with dichro, but is very elegant. They are hard to photograph, and look richer and with more depth in person.
Steve
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/pendants_irid.htm
Steve
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/pendants_irid.htm
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Nope! Etching cream won't work. Sandblast or Dremel. Brockruthpowers wrote:OK, I got it. The answer is simple. I need to get some etching creme. Charlie and Steve--I have appreciated your work and your responses to other questions. Thanks for the inspiration.
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
Re: using irid
You can resist, cut, and blast, or dremel, designs into the irid on top or bottom, or both sheets of a sandwich of a dark irid and a cap of clear irid.
Brock[/quote]
When I try this technique (with BE90) my irids always come out really, really dark. The piece seems to have no sparkle unless a light is shone directly on it. There are no obvious signs of overfiring or underfiring on my pieces...why do my irids lose their life when fired?
C.
Brock[/quote]
When I try this technique (with BE90) my irids always come out really, really dark. The piece seems to have no sparkle unless a light is shone directly on it. There are no obvious signs of overfiring or underfiring on my pieces...why do my irids lose their life when fired?
C.
Re: using irid
When I try this technique (with BE90) my irids always come out really, really dark. The piece seems to have no sparkle unless a light is shone directly on it. There are no obvious signs of overfiring or underfiring on my pieces...why do my irids lose their life when fired?Carol wrote:You can resist, cut, and blast, or dremel, designs into the irid on top or bottom, or both sheets of a sandwich of a dark irid and a cap of clear irid.
Brock
C.[/quote]
Ya got me. Shine a bright light on it!
Man goes to a dentist.
Dentist says ya got yellow teeth.
Man says what'll I do?
Dentist says, wear brown suits.
R. Dangerfield
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
Re: using irid
When I try this technique (with BE90) my irids always come out really, really dark. The piece seems to have no sparkle unless a light is shone directly on it. There are no obvious signs of overfiring or underfiring on my pieces...why do my irids lose their life when fired?Carol wrote:You can resist, cut, and blast, or dremel, designs into the irid on top or bottom, or both sheets of a sandwich of a dark irid and a cap of clear irid.
Brock
C.[/quote]
do you put the irid sides together? the irid surface also has to be cleaned very well. i use a plastic dish scrubby to remove the sand blaster dust.
i had your experience when using uro90 irid, especially the uro90 black irid. it doesn't appear as colorful as b.e. after fusing in a sandwich imho.
also, the larger the piece, the more color it seems to give off. parts of the irid sheet if you're using rainbow aren't as colorful as other parts. usually the center seems to be brighter, although i found the blue parts to be nice too. the gold and silver are usually darker in a sandwich ime.
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Tres bien, Steve! Loverly.Steve Immerman wrote:Here is a link with some pendants using Brock's technique. The effect may be more subtle than with dichro, but is very elegant. They are hard to photograph, and look richer and with more depth in person.
Steve
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/pendants_irid.htm
Did you fuse in the finding (or whateveryoucallit loop thingee)?
Thanks,
Barbara
Barbara Bader
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Re: new piece
Nice, Charlie!charlie wrote:here's a wall installation i just did using this technique
I could be wrong, but does Sara Creekmore make something similiar to this in dichro? Hey SARA... you out there?
BB
Barbara Bader
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Couldn't tell the size, I guess... but I was thinking about the technique... I think hers are trays or bowls or plates.charlie wrote:these are 10"x20" panels standing proud of the wall about 3". sara makes maybe 1"x1" runestones, and bowl. i haven't seen anything on her site for large items.
BB
Barbara Bader
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What tool bit you using with the dremel to actually grind/blast off the irid? I use a flexshaft daily in the studio on my jewelry with a variety of brushes, burs, grinders and what-have-you. I've yet to use it with glass, so need to know what I should be using to create patterns in the irid. As long as I'm asking, what are good vinyl resists to use?Brock wrote:Nope! Etching cream won't work. Sandblast or Dremel. Brock
If this is covered elsewhere, just point me in the general direction.
Thanks in advance...
What tool bit you using with the dremel to actually grind/blast off the irid? I use a flexshaft daily in the studio on my jewelry with a variety of brushes, burs, grinders and what-have-you. I've yet to use it with glass, so need to know what I should be using to create patterns in the irid. As long as I'm asking, what are good vinyl resists to use?
If this is covered elsewhere, just point me in the general direction.
Thanks in advance...
I sandblast mainly, and use a Dremel for touch-ups and some detail work.
4 mil vinyl is plenty for the light sandblasting needed to remove irid. Brock
If this is covered elsewhere, just point me in the general direction.
Thanks in advance...
I sandblast mainly, and use a Dremel for touch-ups and some detail work.
4 mil vinyl is plenty for the light sandblasting needed to remove irid. Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
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Barbara,http://www.clearwaterglass.com/pendants_irid.htm
Tres bien, Steve! Loverly.
Did you fuse in the finding (or whateveryoucallit loop thingee)?
Thanks,
Barbara
Merci.
No, I use epoxy to hold the "bail" in place. You can get bails at
http://www.ugotglass.com/findings.htm
Steve
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Brock &/or Steve --Brock wrote:I sandblast mainly, and use a Dremel for touch-ups and some detail work.
4 mil vinyl is plenty for the light sandblasting needed to remove irid. Brock
If using the Dremel for detail work such as seen in Steve's pendants, what type(s) of cutters, burs, wheels, stones or combination thereof do you use? I have found references to tungsten carbide cutters. diamond wheel points and silicon carbide stones. I'm intrigued ... but lost. Guidance welcome.
Again, if this process is described elsewhere, a gentle point in the direction would be appreciated A quick search of the archives didn't help.
Thanks again -
Robyn
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