Sandblast grit Q

Kitty · Post by **Kitty** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 8:46 am

i have someone doing blasting for me since i dont have the setup. she has 120 alum oxide, and says my projects are too "hard" for this grit, and it's breaking down too quickly. i was surprised to learn that since she's blasting other kinds of glass for trophy work, like stuff for the Ironman Triathlon.

anyway, I need to order some grit from Honolulu (Mr. Sandman!!), and wonder if i should get 120 silicon carbide, or 220? the purpose is to produce a matte finish, which will then be acid etched. i wont be re-fusing the blasted surfaces, just slumping.

thanks for your expertise. kitty.

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:18 am

Kitty- BE glass seems to be really hard, especially compared to batch or cullet. Silicon carbide will stay sharper longer, and you might find 180 a good compromise. Marty

dan001 · Post by **dan001** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 2:42 pm

http://www.sandcarver.org is the ultimate expertise if you have any sandblasting questions.

Dan

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 2:54 pm

Kitty wrote:i have someone doing blasting for me since i dont have the setup. she has 120 alum oxide, and says my projects are too "hard" for this grit, and it's breaking down too quickly. i was surprised to learn that since she's blasting other kinds of glass for trophy work, like stuff for the Ironman Triathlon.

anyway, I need to order some grit from Honolulu (Mr. Sandman!!), and wonder if i should get 120 silicon carbide, or 220? the purpose is to produce a matte finish, which will then be acid etched. i wont be re-fusing the blasted surfaces, just slumping.

thanks for your expertise. kitty.

trophies are probably lead crystal, which is pretty soft comparibly.

dee · Post by **dee** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 3:34 pm

Kitty wrote:i have someone doing blasting for me since i dont have the setup. she has 120 alum oxide, and says my projects are too "hard" for this grit, and it's breaking down too quickly. i was surprised to learn that since she's blasting other kinds of glass for trophy work, like stuff for the Ironman Triathlon.

anyway, I need to order some grit from Honolulu (Mr. Sandman!!), and wonder if i should get 120 silicon carbide, or 220? the purpose is to produce a matte finish, which will then be acid etched. i wont be re-fusing the blasted surfaces, just slumping.

thanks for your expertise. kitty.

kitty, i use 220 sc for sandblasting coasters - they dont get refired - gives a great finish but does seems to take a while at 80 psi with a siphon system....
D

Lionel · Post by **Lionel** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 5:29 pm

Aloha Kitty,

The 120 is fast on BE and Mike has tons. If you buy over 200 pounds you can get the price down to $2.00.

Your friend may not be using a presure pot - which will make it slow.

What are you acid etching after? Is it the blasted area? If so don't bother because the 120 will be super fine.

Kitty · Post by **Kitty** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 5:32 pm

thanks lionel! dont want to buy $400 worth at the moment because i'm moving in a couple of months. after that move, i'll have a big studio as well as other storage space, and can spring for more grit.

i'm going after a beach glass matte finish. so, maybe the acid part wont be necessary anymore. thanks for bringing that up.

i appreciate your response ... aloha, kitty.

Brian and Jenny Blanthorn · Tue Oct 28, 2003 5:54 am

Kitty wrote:i have someone doing blasting for me since i dont have the setup. she has 120 alum oxide, and says my projects are too "hard" for this grit, and it's breaking down too quickly. i was surprised to learn that since she's blasting other kinds of glass for trophy work, like stuff for the Ironman Triathlon.

anyway, I need to order some grit from Honolulu (Mr. Sandman!!), and wonder if i should get 120 silicon carbide, or 220? the purpose is to produce a matte finish, which will then be acid etched. i wont be re-fusing the blasted surfaces, just slumping.

thanks for your expertise. kitty.

I used 280 silicon carbide

Gave a realy smooth finish ready 4 fire polish

But I do have a realy posh cyclone recovery system

I think 280 in most blasters would end up in the bin / bag

One thing tho silicon carbide is heavier so U should B able 2 use a finer grit n not get it sucked up

Nuther thing U can buff up a sandblast finish using grit / pumace n brush or cloth

Brian

Lynne Chappell · Post by **Lynne Chappell** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 2:53 am

Don't think the acid will do much to the sandblasted surface. And some BE glass seems to be really acid resistant.

Kitty · Post by **Kitty** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:09 am

going to get the 120.
yes, have noticed the resistance of BE to acid.

lionel, thanks for info -- 50 lbs $125 plus freight $35 (not sure if this is barge or UPS. whatever.)

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 1:26 pm

i use AlO2 from harbor frieght. i think it was $17/25 lbs. you're getting hosed on price.

talk to a headstone maker and see if you can tack on an order onto theirs.steel ship builders or large tank makters also do lots of blasting, if you have any in your local area.

Kitty · Post by **Kitty** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:20 pm

charlie, SiC is $45 for 25 lbs at Harbor Freight, plus freight to Hawaii. i'll see what the price for AlO2 is at Mr. Sandman. thanks for the info. i haven't yet ordered.

Kitty · Post by **Kitty** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:52 pm

charlie, Aluminum oxide sells for $63.50 per 50# bag in Honolulu. i was more interested in the SiC because the aluminum oxide was breaking down very fast.

you know, i'm in a remote spot on earth, and there isn't a lot of industry around here. makes things more pricey. always appreciate your pearls of wisdom ... lots to learn in this world, that's for sure. kitty.

Dean Hubbard · Post by **Dean Hubbard** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 7:25 pm

Kitty,
If you are going to be using this quite frequently, I'd recomend the 120 grit. The nice thing about SC is that you use it several times, although it gets a bit dustier in the blasting room each time.

Dean

WarmGlass.com

Sandblast grit Q

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