ceramic shell
Moderator: Brad Walker
ceramic shell
Hi
I´ve just finished a plaster/silica mould, around a wax model. The wax model was very tricky, and I´ve done 5 before I felt it was fine.
Now I´ll go to the lost wax step, but I´m afraid that the mould will crack during the casting. I´ve donne all by the book, but I´m still insecure.
Probabbly it´s a very stupid idea, but what will happen if I put my mould inside a ceramic mould, and fill the spaces left with more plaster/silica? The mould has a cilindrical form and I have a cilindrical ceramic mold just 1in larger.
Is it absurd?
Thanks
Luiza
I´ve just finished a plaster/silica mould, around a wax model. The wax model was very tricky, and I´ve done 5 before I felt it was fine.
Now I´ll go to the lost wax step, but I´m afraid that the mould will crack during the casting. I´ve donne all by the book, but I´m still insecure.
Probabbly it´s a very stupid idea, but what will happen if I put my mould inside a ceramic mould, and fill the spaces left with more plaster/silica? The mould has a cilindrical form and I have a cilindrical ceramic mold just 1in larger.
Is it absurd?
Thanks
Luiza
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- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 8:26 pm
- Location: Atlanta
No, it is not absurd. Another thing you can do is fill in between the plaster and the clay with sand. You could also just build a box out of small kiln shelves or bricks, put some sand in the bottom, put your mold in and level it, then fill in around the mold with sand.
Age old advice -- cast a simple shape of similar size first so you don't ruin lots of work.
Age old advice -- cast a simple shape of similar size first so you don't ruin lots of work.
IF you are retro-fitting, you could use a piece of steel (pipe if the mold is small enough) as the outer, fill with sand, then the plaster. Most of the guys in my shop are using steel outers, instead of chicken wire etc, to contain the plaster. But steel is cheap here, and we have benders and welders. And most of the kilns are roll-outs, so not much heavy lifting.
Greg
Greg
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- Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 7:33 am
- Location: Halikko, Finland
Making a saggar
Recently we have seen advices of constructing a box
around the mold. Ceramics, steel has been suggested, as well as Skamoil boards that you can joint with screws.
My kiln has unprotected elements, so I do not feel
confident with large steel saggars.
I have been thinking about ceramic (bisquit) boards
of different size that I can assembe with screws
to corner pieces.
Does that sound feasible?
What I need is a lot of one time saggars, so this kind of
modular construction is tempting.
-lauri
around the mold. Ceramics, steel has been suggested, as well as Skamoil boards that you can joint with screws.
My kiln has unprotected elements, so I do not feel
confident with large steel saggars.
I have been thinking about ceramic (bisquit) boards
of different size that I can assembe with screws
to corner pieces.
Does that sound feasible?
What I need is a lot of one time saggars, so this kind of
modular construction is tempting.
-lauri
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- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 11:55 am
- Location: Silver Spring, MD
- Contact:
Hi NikkiNikki O'Neill wrote:Charlie:
Will any sand do? Do you know if common "Play sand" from the hardware store will work for supporting molds as well as be suitable for small-scale sand casting.? I was wondering about organic content, if any.
Thanks.
Nikki
I´ve been using sand for re-firing pieces that are already slumped, to fire polish. I use ordinary sand , and just sift it and put in the kiln to dry. If it works in this case, beeing in touch with the glass, it certainly will work for our new use...
Luiza
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- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 11:55 am
- Location: Silver Spring, MD
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- Posts: 260
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 8:26 pm
- Location: Atlanta
Play sand is fine for supporting molds. Anything organic will be long gone by the time the glass gets soft. It may have some iron or other minerals in it though, which may discolor the glass if you get to slumping temperature and the glass is touching the sand. If you want to be safer when you're sand casting get "Cleaned Sand" for mixing mortar. It's not much more expensive at all. Available at building supply places.
Or you can get Olivine sand from a foundry supply -- which has much less silica content and so is safer for your lungs.
BTW, I think I'm going to follow the advice of the "Mixing It With the Best" cd and start using Olivine instead of silica in my casting molds. Anything I can do to get away from silica.
Or you can get Olivine sand from a foundry supply -- which has much less silica content and so is safer for your lungs.
BTW, I think I'm going to follow the advice of the "Mixing It With the Best" cd and start using Olivine instead of silica in my casting molds. Anything I can do to get away from silica.
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- Posts: 270
- Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 7:33 am
- Location: Halikko, Finland
Nuts and bolts
Hi Charlie,
sorry my floppy English.
I was not going to fasten with screws but with
nuts and bolts. Not tightening too much, and premade holes big enough to allow thermal expansion.
-lauri
sorry my floppy English.
I was not going to fasten with screws but with
nuts and bolts. Not tightening too much, and premade holes big enough to allow thermal expansion.
-lauri