I've seen work where geometric shapes like squares, diamonds and rectangles maintain their "perfect" corners or points. Whenever I fuse such shapes in my work, the corners or points always round over some; the only way I've been able to retain the perfect shape is to take it only to a tack fuse.
Is there some trick for retaining the sharp corners and points on geometrical shapes at full fuse?
Cheers,
Suzan
Maintaining Geometrical Shapes at Full Fuse
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
When glass is heated enough, it wants to be about 6-7mm thick, approx. 1/4". If you do not have enough glass for this to occur, the glass will "pull in" and become a shape that IS 1/4" thick. If you have too much, it will "flow out", and again, become a shape that is 1/4" thick.
You can use dams to keep the glass in any shape you prefer, and it will level out at whatever thickness the volume of glass allows. These events occur at a full fuse, over time, and can be stopped at any point. Brock
You can use dams to keep the glass in any shape you prefer, and it will level out at whatever thickness the volume of glass allows. These events occur at a full fuse, over time, and can be stopped at any point. Brock
-
gone
yes. lay it out upside down and put a complete sheet on the top. that will hold down the pieces and you won't get any roundovers due to the heat or movement.Els VandenEnde wrote:You can also fuse it upside down, especially with irrid which doesn't need sandblasting to get a nice surface.
this was done upside down for that reason, and then refused with the design up.
[/img]