Foredom Tools

Goldfinger · Post by **Goldfinger** » Fri Jan 16, 2004 8:54 am

I plan to buy a Foredom Flex Shaft for rough grinding and final polishing for small pieces of glass. The dealer was unable to provide much information on the types of discs - grits -ect, for such use. He said most people use this tool on metals. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Steve

Cathy Crain · Post by **Cathy Crain** » Fri Jan 16, 2004 1:17 pm

I have had a flex shafts for 30 yrs and there are all kinds of diamond bits, grinding heads etc. for them. I must confess, as I am new to glass, I have yet to use it on glass, but I am sure it will not be a problem for very small items. Rio Grand in Albuquerque, NM will probably have most everything you need.

Don Burt · Post by **Don Burt** » Fri Jan 16, 2004 1:50 pm

I don't think you'll like using a flex tool for grinding or polishing glass. Even smaller pieces. Maybe bead size, yes. I use one for a number of things, but to remove significant quantities of glass as a grinder would, or polish glass as a large polishing surface would, is asking a lot from a flex tool. It has to do with surface feet per minute of the tool face, control of pressure on application, keeping cerium or other abrasive on the tool face, etc. But buy one anyway. They're great for lots of things. I use one to fix painting errors, or to free-hand etch glass sometimes.

Goldfinger · Post by **Goldfinger** » Fri Jan 16, 2004 1:51 pm

I am not lacking for suppliers. I'm just not sure which discs and grits to use for the rough grinding and polishing. Since they are used primarily in the jewelry trade for metals, no one seems to know what to use on glass.

Steve

ellen abbott · Post by **ellen abbott** » Fri Jan 16, 2004 9:44 pm

I have a foredom and it is my primary tool for cold work. The Foredom catalog has a lot of diamond bits in varying shapes and finish. The bits you use depend on what you are grinding. My pieces are very sculptural so I use a lot of different shapes. Oddly enough, the ones I use most, I bought off Ebay...24 different shapes. I don't use the discs at all. I also use the Cratex polishing bullets a lot.

E

Don Burt · Post by **Don Burt** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 12:31 am

ellen abbott wrote:I have a foredom and it is my primary tool for cold work. The Foredom catalog has a lot of diamond bits in varying shapes and finish. The bits you use depend on what you are grinding. My pieces are very sculptural so I use a lot of different shapes. Oddly enough, the ones I use most, I bought off Ebay...24 different shapes. I don't use the discs at all. I also use the Cratex polishing bullets a lot.

E

Ellen, it surprises me that you do a lot of cold work with a flex tool. Can you describe in a little more detail what you do with it? Do you shape glass with it? can you polish a flat area? I think maybe I'm selling the tool short. I have a a couple diamond bits and a number of various abrasive bits, but I can't shape glass to any great extent, and I'm challenged to polish anything other than a very small area.

ellen abbott · Post by **ellen abbott** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 11:03 am

Since my work is small and high relief vessel forms (small bowls are 6"w x 3"h x 6"d), large tools like belt sanders don't do me any good. I have to be able to get into all the nooks and crannies and around small curved areas. Also, I don't go for a high polish. The finish I achieve is more akin to the composite stage of a polishing procedure. I use the diamond grinding bits to remove spots where the glass and mold have decided to become one and the flashings (or flanges) from the small cracks in the molds when they occur. For the larger flashings that spread out on the rims when I have used too much glass, I use either a flat lap or the upright. Sometimes I have areas where the piece is overfired and makes pits. When this happens I use the grinding bits to reshape the area if it's not too bad and can be salvaged. After I finish whatever grinding that needs to be done (and this varies with each piece), I go over the entire surface with the craytex grit impregnated bullets, medium and fine grade, to get a uniform surface and to polish out the ground spots. Then lastly, I use an upright composite wheel (with water) to polish as much of the surfaces that I can get to.

Don Burt · Post by **Don Burt** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 11:58 am

ellen abbott wrote:Since my work is small and high relief vessel forms (small bowls are 6"w x 3"h x 6"d), large tools like belt sanders don't do me any good. I have to be able to get into all the nooks and crannies and around small curved areas. Also, I don't go for a high polish. The finish I achieve is more akin to the composite stage of a polishing procedure. I use the diamond grinding bits to remove spots where the glass and mold have decided to become one and the flashings (or flanges) from the small cracks in the molds when they occur. For the larger flashings that spread out on the rims when I have used too much glass, I use either a flat lap or the upright. Sometimes I have areas where the piece is overfired and makes pits. When this happens I use the grinding bits to reshape the area if it's not too bad and can be salvaged. After I finish whatever grinding that needs to be done (and this varies with each piece), I go over the entire surface with the craytex grit impregnated bullets, medium and fine grade, to get a uniform surface and to polish out the ground spots. Then lastly, I use an upright composite wheel (with water) to polish as much of the surfaces that I can get to.

Great info Ellen. Thanks. - Going googling for cratex now

ellen abbott · Post by **ellen abbott** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 12:33 pm

I buy mine at the jeweler's supply.

E

jerry flanary · Post by **jerry flanary** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 1:26 pm

A great source for info on coldworking is bob at HIS glass. You can talk to him about what you actually want to do and he can tell you what you should have for that application. (Then you can tell him your budget and he can suggest something else!)
Ebay is also useful.
But in general, Rough stuff 40-80 depending on how agressive you want, then 120ish, 240ish, 400, cork and then cerium. The final finish stuff is really up to you and what finish suits your esthetic. Some people use pumice (which is cool just because it's also called "rottenstone") some use horse hair... but those #s above should keep you busy for a while.
Just for extra safety, plug that thing into a ground fault circuit... Better safe than dead!

Goldfinger · Post by **Goldfinger** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 2:19 pm

Jerry: How do I get in touch with Bob? Thanks for the information.

jerry flanary · Post by **jerry flanary** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 8:00 pm

Sorry
Try this: http://www.hisglassworks.com/
or
Robert W. Stephan
91 Webb Cove Road
Asheville, NC 28804

Phone: 828-254-2559

Toll Free: 800-914-7463

FAX: 828-254-2581

Email: glassinfo@hisglassworks.com