Painting questions

Patti Rohwer-Nutter · Tue Jan 20, 2004 11:53 pm

Hi,

I've been reading the Albinus Elskus book and would like to try some direct drawing on glass using oil and a pen, but I would like to eventually incorporate the drawings inside a fused piece (i.e. not on the surface layer).

As I understand it, the traditional stainers colors should be fired below 1400F, and can hold up to multiple firings at that temp, but will they burn out during a final full fuse if capped? (I'm thinking of starting with Reusche Stencil black 1059).

Alternately, can Sunshine paints be mixed with clove/lavender oil and used with a pen for line drawings? Is there a smooth, opaque black or dark brown in the sample set, and will it stand up to multiple firings? Eventually I'd like a range of colors to play with, but right now my goal is simple but bold sketches (doodling on glass).

I'm willing to experiment, but I'm trying to decide which paint to buy first

Thanks for any advice,

Patti

Tyler Frisby · Post by **Tyler Frisby** » Wed Jan 21, 2004 1:02 am

Id like to kow too

Dani · Post by **Dani** » Wed Jan 21, 2004 2:12 am

I use the Reusche paints mixed with vegetable glycerin and water to make an "ink" about the consistency of India ink, then draw using a crow quill pen. These have to be fired at roughly 1300 degrees before you sandwich under clear and fuse. I do fuse uncured black sandwiched between a color and clear, but only a thin layer of wash that is waterbased with gum arabic using a stick-lighting technique. This fires out fine in the high-fires at fuse temps as long as it's sandwiched under clear. I would not risk sandwiching uncured paint that has an oil or similar binder as I think you risk bubbles and possibly discoloration. Hope that helps. If you're in the magnet exchange, I'll have some calligraphic examples of the above.

Patti Rohwer-Nutter · Post by **Patti Rohwer-Nutter** » Wed Jan 21, 2004 2:38 pm

Thanks a bunch Dani - can't wait to get your magless!

cheers,

Patti

Dani · Post by **Dani** » Wed Jan 21, 2004 5:01 pm

I can't wait to get everybody's magnets! I didn't participate the second year and almost died

dan001 · Post by **dan001** » Wed Jan 21, 2004 5:04 pm

I have used a water base with the reuches paint, I then sandwich between 2 layers at 1525 and the result was that my opaque paint faded way.The Reuches paint that I used was a 1250 recommended. However they also have a higher temperature paint for slumping. That might be better.

If you use a oil base medium, make sure that you pre fire at 500 to evaporate the oil to avoid bubble.

I am also working on finding out the best paint to be sandwiched

keep us posted and I will make my test as well. I am waiting for ferro sample in the mail to try that paint as well. the firing temp will be 1350. I will also try the fusemaster at 1400 to see the difference

Dan

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Wed Jan 21, 2004 5:06 pm

I like to paint, and prefire to 1000 in order to set the enamel and burn out the medium without bending the glass. Then I cap and fire to 1420 for float glass, with an hour soak at 1220 on the way up.

Sunshine black will work, but I mix it with a low temp enamel or flux because it will not soften at 1000 like the stencil black. If the stencil black burns out, which I don't think will happen if it is capped, I would try and mix it with some Sunshine black and do as above.

I use clove oil as described in Elskus for crow quill.

Dani · Post by **Dani** » Wed Jan 21, 2004 5:10 pm

dan001 wrote:I have used a water base with the reuches paint, I then sandwich between 2 layers at 1525 and the result was that my opaque paint faded way.The Reuches paint that I used was a 1250 recommended. However they also have a higher temperature paint for slumping. That might be better.

I only fuse the Reusche highfires up to 1450 and they don't burn off at that temperature. The low fire colors aren't as forgiving and I usually pre-fire before I sandwich them... even then, the blues and greens will burn off a little.

Dan

dan001 · Post by **dan001** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:04 pm

Made a test over the weekend with the fusemaster white. I use water and gum arabic. I did not cure before I sandwich the clear on top of of my base.Microscopic bubble but my paint looks like hell. It seems that all the water in the paint starts running and also faded away.

I probably should have cured it first. Any thoughts on the Medium. Is a squeegee oil or lavander would work better?

I would also cure it this time but I want to pick your brain before my next test.

Dan