float sink schedule ok?

[Cher]

Finaly, the sink. Here's the scoop:

6 13" round float glass, = 3/4" deep

preheat kiln to 250, insert glass
afap to 350 hold 1/2 hr
60 dph 1500 hold 1 hr (fuse point
afap 1050 hold 1 1/2 hr (anneal
afap 1022 hold 3 hr (strain point
16 dph to 200

vent to 1000.
I've compiled and assimilated this shedule from
instructors manuals, general float schedules
and various bits I've gathered from this board,
but recently I've seen much faster schedules,
like ramping up at 400 dph.
Using this schedule, it'll take 4 days. That
is just the fuse side, slump in probably
another 3 days. This will be a prototype: the
"real" one will be three 1/4" circles. Mainly I'm trying
to test the SS slump bowl!
But, I've been planning this for a year and
finaly have no more excuses or quitting kilns
(pray pray pray) so I'd really like some
reassurance and/or advice on this schedule. I'm starting the fire today at 5pm. gulp.

[Brock]

!) Why the preheat?
2) afap to 350 - me no like!
3) 60 DPH 1500 - very slow
4) afap 1050 - hold 1/2 hr - not long enough
5) afap 1022 - hold 3 hr - why?
6) 16 (!) dph to 200 - way too slow

Having said that, erring on the side of caution is not necessarily a bad thing, but your schedule is VERY slow. Graham would anneal something this thick at 1030 for less than 2 hours. Brock

Finaly, the sink. Here's the scoop:

6 13" round float glass, = 3/4" deep

preheat kiln to 250, insert glass
afap to 350 hold 1/2 hr
60 dph 1500 hold 1 hr (fuse point
afap 1050 hold 1 1/2 hr (anneal
afap 1022 hold 3 hr (strain point
16 dph to 200

vent to 1000.
I've compiled and assimilated this shedule from
instructors manuals, general float schedules
and various bits I've gathered from this board,
but recently I've seen much faster schedules,
like ramping up at 400 dph.
Using this schedule, it'll take 4 days. That
is just the fuse side, slump in probably
another 3 days. This will be a prototype: the
"real" one will be three 1/4" circles. Mainly I'm trying
to test the SS slump bowl!
But, I've been planning this for a year and
finaly have no more excuses or quitting kilns
(pray pray pray) so I'd really like some
reassurance and/or advice on this schedule. I'm starting the fire today at 5pm. gulp.

[Cynthia]

Finaly, the sink. Here's the scoop:

6 13" round float glass, = 3/4" deep

preheat kiln to 250, insert glass
afap to 350 hold 1/2 hr
60 dph 1500 hold 1 hr (fuse point
afap 1050 hold 1 1/2 hr (anneal
afap 1022 hold 3 hr (strain point
16 dph to 200

vent to 1000.
... so I'd really like some
reassurance and/or advice on this schedule. I'm starting the fire today at 5pm. gulp.

Right from Graham's book...sort of
6 stage schedule for float.

90 dph to 500
125 dph to 958
160 dph to *1470 - fuse point
afap to *1030 - anneal
soak = 1 hr. 20 min.
14 dph to 920
27 dph to *830 - lower strain point
135 dph to 130
off

Change your temps to accomodate your glass. 90 coe would be a top temp of *1480 (dependent upon your kiln), anneal temp would be *960 and your lower strain point is *750.

I'm as baffled as Brock is by your preheat and your long hold at the top... Actually I don't understand the schedule at all. Tell me what you are thinking. Also, what glass will you be using. 90 or 96, float? If it's any other glass, I don't know how to fire it which could explain why I am confused by your schedule.

[Kathie Karancz]

Hey Cynthia: I would love to try a sink. Is yours based also on a 3/4" thick piece of glass??

[Cher]

Thanks Brock and Cynthia! I was counting on you guys to help out. Love this board! My schedule is from other peoples thinking, plus things I found along the way.

Phil Teefy's book "Kiln Forming Glass Fusing" has schedules for glass that are based on thickness and diameter:

" 1/2" thick, 12" diameter heat at 60 degrees F ph w/special preheat".
(which is explained as .....the glass that touches the shelf becomes colder than the glass that is on top. he goes on about conductivity of glass, etc.

His schedules are for 1/2 inch glass, mine is 3/4"

I found info on float in Blake Ramsey's class handout that had holds for a 20" 1/4 piece at 250, 500, 750, 1500: 1050 and 1022. Plus I found the temperatures to use for float there, also.

Since my data is a compilation of info, I really needed your input! I'm really REALLY glad I posted and I appreciate your guidance. I'm off to program the kiln. Now all I got to do is figure out when I'm gonna have to be awake.

Oh yeah, as I was taking notes to program the kiln, I noticed you don't have soak times. Advice?? Thanks!

[Brock]

There's a ton of info on the internet, good, bad, and ridiculous. The trick is figuring out which is the good info. Frankly, on ANYTHING to do with firing schedules, Graham Stone, in my opinion, is the MAN. Brock

[Cynthia]

Hey Cynthia: I would love to try a sink. Is yours based also on a 3/4" thick piece of glass??

It's not my schedule, but Graham Stones, and yes, that schedule is for 3/4 inch float in degrees F. If you use it, make sure you plug in the appropriate set temps for the glass you are using. Annealing and strain points as well as full process temps will be different for different glasses.

He is the MAN...He offers thickness based schedules and time based and schedules based on the type of kiln you are firing...this book gave me all his decades of experience and knowlege and wisdom to use at my disposal. It's near to impossible to get his book these days, but if you can find one, it should be in your reference section and be your bible.

...as I was taking notes to program the kiln, I noticed you don't have soak times. Advice??

You only need to soak where soaking is indicated. The ramp rates are sufficiently slow enough to allow equal heating or cooling throughout the body of the glass.

Are you damming the piece? Shouldn't you have a dam around it?

I haven't fired anything this thick without damming it. So I was just thinking about that and had to ask

[Cher]

Thanks Cynthia! I was cruising the archives and found the string on Graham Stones' (aka THE MAN) schedules. I've got a lot of good books, but not that one. Anyways, I saw where the discussion went into the "descent through the anneal range" and saw what your schedule was doing. Happy now!!! Yu Da Best! (and love your sense of style as seen @ yr www)


"Are you damming the piece? Shouldn't you have a dam around it?

I haven't fired anything this thick without damming it. So I was just thinking about that and had to ask "

I've seen pro and con there. Thought if I was gonna be there to watch, and to make sure it moved on to cool, wouldn't have to? But if you think I should, I will. I dam most everything I do, but I mostly kiln cast lately.
I guess if you are even questioning it, I'm just gonna do it!!! Make sense?

[Kathie Karancz]

Thanks Cynthia: I will try and find the book by "the man".

[Nelson Tan]

Hello Yoduh


Glass Sink Schedule for slumping on SS bowl, 6 pieces at a time
I do this 2 to three cycles. Adjusting the glass to the center of the SS bowl on intervals

180 to 500 soak 0
200 to 950 soak 5
250 to 1145 soak 12
850 to 980 soak 45
180 to 800 soak 0
leave overnight


This is what we use for 1/2" float glass on plaster/alumina /fiber paper
relief

500 to 900 soak 0
700 to 1400 soak 15
850 to 1100 soak 50
250 to 850 soak 0
400 to 600 soak 0
leave overnight

tested it with cold and hot water and by banging 2" x 2" wood on the rim
sold a couple of them already

some pictures
http://community.webshots.com/user/yamatan

hope this helps
Nelson

[Cher]

Thanks Nelson, That was going to be my next question! Based on my previous research and the different schedules I got here, knew I'd need a good slump schedule. Don't need to reinvent the wheelie every time I do something new to me.

Love you sinks, great shape and shine too. Your panels are outstanding!

The second schedule you listed for 1/2 float, that is for a fuse right? Is that what you use for your exquisite panels? Ive done some kiln carved tiles and really like them, I'll do a large one yet this year.

You also showed some interesting patterened material, aligator/snake mentioned use in sand cast... could you eleaborate?. Can pm if you prefer. Fasinating!!! Yo

[Kevin Midgley]

Graham's book is available at Artisan books in Australia. It will take a month or so to get to North America (had a sticker on the box saying held for security inspection). They take airmail seriously down there. I complained I hadn't got the book after a month and it arrived the following week.
Worth every penny. Think about the time you might save and the cost of energy, never mind the cost of exploded glass and the book pays for itself. About $140 to Canada
Kevin in Tofino

[Nelson Tan]

Thank you Yoduh

1/2 schedule is not for fusing. It is only enough to get the impression of sand and fiber paper

aligator/snake skin pattern is made of rubber. The local shoe and sandal industry use it a lot. There are many patterns available. spread some sand on shelf mixture then press the pattern on the sand you you get instant texture.

I do not know what sand casting really means, so sand casting may not be the correct term for this. What we do is just sprinkle dry plaster/alumina mixture and press the patterns.

Nelson

[Bert Weiss]

Hi folks

I don't have enough time online this week to focus in detail on this stuff.

While I agree that Graham is the man, and he has helped me more than anybody on this board, I do have a different approach to annealing than he does. We actually spend about the same amount of time getting the job done, we spend it at different temps.

I soak longer at 1000 and then spend the same amount of time dropping to 900. Graham soaks at 1030 for a short time and takes a longer time dropping down.

I asked about the differences at WGWE1. I asked Dan and Ray about it and much to my surprise they said that they thought that I had a better approach, spending more time at a lower temp.

That said I wouldn't for a minute say that Graham's schedule won't work just fine. I also know with assurity that mine works for me.

I may not be back to comment for a couple of days... We'll see