A little splash of color

daffodildeb · Post by **daffodildeb** » Sun Feb 08, 2004 6:26 pm

The book sounds intriguing. Can you give us a time table, and details like price? Judging by the piece you showed us I'm ready to preorder the book! $\:D/$

Ron Coleman · Post by **Ron Coleman** » Sun Feb 08, 2004 6:55 pm

daffodildeb wrote:The book sounds intriguing. Can you give us a time table, and details like price? Judging by the piece you showed us I'm ready to preorder the book! $\:D/$

It won't really be a book, just a webpage with lots of info for all to read and learn. When it's done I'll just post it on the board, just for fun and free. Got some pictures to take and then it will be ready in a few weeks.

Ron

daffodildeb · Post by **daffodildeb** » Sun Feb 08, 2004 7:00 pm

For free? You're one of my favorite people!

slats · Post by **slats** » Sun Feb 08, 2004 11:13 pm

anxiously awaiting.........keep me posted.....plz

M.L. · Post by **M.L.** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 9:09 am

Good morning Ron. On the comment about making your mold, if you were to make your mold 2-3 x deeper, would you still use the raku clay, or would it be too deep and create the possibility of fracture upon cooling off. Thanks. Mike

Ron Coleman · Post by **Ron Coleman** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 9:43 am

Mike Boos wrote:Good morning Ron. On the comment about making your mold, if you were to make your mold 2-3 x deeper, would you still use the raku clay, or would it be too deep and create the possibility of fracture upon cooling off. Thanks. Mike

The Raku clay will withstand more thermal shock than other clays and it should be ok in that respect.

There may be difficulty in forming a very deep clay mold using the drape-over technique I described above. As the wet clay dries there is a fair amount of shrinkage and there is the possibility of cracks developing if the clay gets trapped on the foam form.

When I use this technique to form the clay I cover the foam form and the clay with sheet plastic and allow it to dry very slowly over several days. As the clay dries and shrinks it will "hopefully"slide up on the foam form and not get trapped. Once the clay is dry enough to support itself I remove the form and cover the clay with plastic and continue to dry slowly.

Warpage is another problem which results from uneven drying.

Slumping inside a clay mold shouldn't cause any problems for the glass or the mold.

Ron

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 3:59 pm

Ron Coleman wrote:There may be difficulty in forming a very deep clay mold using the drape-over technique I described above. As the wet clay dries there is a fair amount of shrinkage and there is the possibility of cracks developing if the clay gets trapped on the foam form.

When I use this technique to form the clay I cover the foam form and the clay with sheet plastic and allow it to dry very slowly over several days. As the clay dries and shrinks it will "hopefully"slide up on the foam form and not get trapped. Once the clay is dry enough to support itself I remove the form and cover the clay with plastic and continue to dry slowly.

in order to solve this, put a thin layer of soft foam between the clay slab and the form. you can also unmold it when it's leather hard. typically you'd let it set for a while, until the water content evens out across the slab piece (if you've used a slip and score method to join pieces of slab together). it will then dry evenly across the piece. if not drying evenly, punch a few small holes in the wetter portions of the clay area to speed up drying in that location. you can also dry on plasterboard or put newspaper over it before covering with plastic. replacing the newspaper will remove water pretty evenly.

Warpage is another problem which results from uneven drying.

Slumping inside a clay mold shouldn't cause any problems for the glass or the mold.

Ron

M.L. · Post by **M.L.** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 4:44 pm

Thanks, Ron & Charlie for the response. By the way Charlie, really like your gate. Thanks again Mike

Dani · Post by **Dani** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 8:19 pm

Ron Coleman wrote:
daffodildeb wrote:The book sounds intriguing. Can you give us a time table, and details like price? Judging by the piece you showed us I'm ready to preorder the book! $\:D/$
It won't really be a book, just a webpage with lots of info for all to read and learn. When it's done I'll just post it on the board, just for fun and free. Got some pictures to take and then it will be ready in a few weeks.

Ron

Uh-oh..... I feel myself turning into a publishing nag again! If you decide a book might be in your future, join my writer's group for ideas and inspiration!

Ron Coleman · Post by **Ron Coleman** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 9:01 pm

The book idea could be fun Dani, all I need is another 24 hours in each day.

Ron

charlie holden · Post by **charlie holden** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 7:46 pm

All this talk about a book has me thinking that there might be room for a warmglass wiki page. It would be a permanent, though fluid, repository for instruction, tutorials and definitions. A good place to organize the archives. It is written, edited and policed by the community. Which means that anybody can edit any page at any time.

Wiki pages sound strange at first, I know. People suspect that they would be vandalized and untrustworthy. But they have proven to be quite successful when the community cares about them. The trick is, we would need a computer genius that could host it.

Look at:

http://www.wikipedia.org/ for an online encyclopedia written by the people

http://wiki.org/ for the software

ch

WarmGlass.com

A little splash of color

coldworking