Photographing glass

[Risa]

My husband has generously offered to photograph my finished pieces and asked what is being used to prop up pieces to photograph them with a solid backdrop (so the prop doesn't show up in the photo). I've looked at a lot of the posted photos and most look like they are overhead shots or side shots. Does anyone have suggestions?

[Marty]

More info needed: solid work? flat? opaque or transparent? intended purpose of the photos?

[Arnold Howard]

My husband has generously offered to photograph my finished pieces and asked what is being used to prop up pieces to photograph them with a solid backdrop (so the prop doesn't show up in the photo). I've looked at a lot of the posted photos and most look like they are overhead shots or side shots. Does anyone have suggestions?

I have solved that problem by placing glass on a curved piece of white Plexiglass. You can achieve interesting effects by lighting the Plexiglass from behind.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com

[Morganica]

It really does depend on what you're shooting. In general, lighting is the most important part of photographing glass--you want to play up shadows to get a sense of shape, and vary the background so to show transparency. Most vessels are shot slightly above the lip and to the side because it shows the depth and some of the outside. If you shoot the piece head on, so you see only the interior, it tends to look flat.

If you can tether your digital camera to a laptop, so that you can see the image on the big screen, it really helps.

I like to use sand or pellet bags to raise the work from behind--small ones about 3/4 filled work best. The other option is to get some clear plexiglass blocks and pyramids, because those are less likely to show through transparent areas. I've also constructed PVC stands above the shooting field and suspended things (mostly jewelry) from fishing line.

The most important lesson I've learned with backdrops is to get them the heck away from the piece. When you see a lot of texture in the background, it's usually because the backdrop is too close. If you use a sweep (where the background curves up behind the piece), make sure the rise doesn't occur for a foot or two.

[Mike Jordan]

When I shoot I have a variety of blocks, brackets and weighted objects to lean against if it doesn't sit up on it's on. A lot of times i will lay it flat on a dark blue cloth (sometimes black) and I'll get on a step ladder and shoot straight down. If I don't feel like getting out the ladder and all the other stuff, I'll just something behind the cloth and prop it up on that. Mostly I just get an angle where I can get the least amount of reflected highlights from my flash or multiple lights.

Mike

[Risa]

Whoops, Marty, you're right I was way too vague. My stuff is mostly bowls and plates for now, both opaque and transparent, glossy and matte finishes. (I'm allowing myself to diverge since this is all new to me....hope to develop a recognizable personal style someday.) Photos will go on my website and possibly for a few local show entries. Not trying for any significant juried shows yet.
My husband has a pretty extensive studio with good lighting, a light box and backdrops and good cameras with tethered capture ability. He's a good photographer but has not done a lot of glass as subject matter...and we both recognize it is a different challenge.

Thank you all for responding. We'll try some of your suggestions and I'll post the best.