Sticking temperature of stainless steel

BillBrach · Post by **BillBrach** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 2:32 pm

Does anybody know at what temp glass starts to stick to stainless steel ??

I have a project where I will not be able to use paper or kiln wash on, and I need to fire to about 1200 degrees.

So, does stainless stick to glass if it is 1200 ??

Brock · Post by **Brock** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 2:40 pm

Not if the SS is well coated with seperator. Brock

Stuart Clayman · Post by **Stuart Clayman** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 2:48 pm

What about irid? will that act as a seperator against SS?

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:48 pm

BillBrach wrote:Does anybody know at what temp glass starts to stick to stainless steel ??

I have a project where I will not be able to use paper or kiln wash on, and I need to fire to about 1200 degrees.

So, does stainless stick to glass if it is 1200 ??

I can't say as I know just what temp sticking starts, but I agree with Brock. Why no kiln wash? You can use sifted powder maybe. Talc or whiting or alumina or kiln wash or Boron Nitride that is rated for 1200.

Cynthia · Post by **Cynthia** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 4:14 pm

Stuart Clayman wrote:What about irid? will that act as a seperator against SS?

I would think irid would act as a separator and you should be able to drape over an uncoated stainless. I have bent over stainless with only a dusting of 'Free' by Satelite Products. I think that 'Free' is simply talc.

I'm with the rest though, why no separator?

BillBrach · Post by **BillBrach** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 4:39 pm

Sorry I didn't give enough information in my original post.

What I'm trying to do is coat kiln made beads on ALL surfaces with anti-devit spray, and then run them through the kiln. I have to grind extensively on these beads to shape them, then obviously they need to be "shined" back up.

I don't want to have to run them twice thru the kiln to shine all the surfaces. I'd planned to slide them on an UNCOATED ss mandrel and fire at 1200, using "Back Magic" as devit.

Stuart Clayman · Post by **Stuart Clayman** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 4:44 pm

So far my understanding is that Back Magic has some type of magic power to get people like me to buy a product that does not work. Have you found a use for it? It does not work as they say it does to shine up the back of a product.

Stuart

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 5:29 pm

BillBrach wrote:Sorry I didn't give enough information in my original post.

What I'm trying to do is coat kiln made beads on ALL surfaces with anti-devit spray, and then run them through the kiln. I have to grind extensively on these beads to shape them, then obviously they need to be "shined" back up.

I don't want to have to run them twice thru the kiln to shine all the surfaces. I'd planned to slide them on an UNCOATED ss mandrel and fire at 1200, using "Back Magic" as devit.

I don't get why you wouldn't coat a ss wire, string the beads and either torch them or kiln fire polish, then remove the beads...

I'm with Stuart here. Back Magic doesn't behave as advertised, although you can probably fire polish beads at some temp or another, just not 900. It has a high lead content so don't eat your beads. I bet 1200 works though.

Tim Swann · Post by **Tim Swann** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 10:34 pm

I have tried what you are attempting and the only method I was successful with was using a tungsten or graphite mandrel. I used a small kiln to get the bead up to 950Â°F and fire polished the bead in a torch. I think that going all the way up to 1200Â°F you will risk having the bead too soften much in a kiln.

Tim

WarmGlass.com

Sticking temperature of stainless steel

Sticking temperature of stainless steel

Re: Sticking temperature of stainless steel