Vitrigraph modification - WarmGlass.com

Vitrigraph modification

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jim burchett
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Vitrigraph modification

Postby jim burchett » Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:33 pm

I have a Skutt HotStart kiln that it seems I should be able to use as a Vitrigraph kiln. I' dont see why I cannot elevate this kiln and use a Hole-saw to drill a 2-3" hole in the bottom...viola! Am I missing something? Could I do this and then use an old piece of mullite to cover it when i want to use it to fuse/slump? Anyone have experience with this?
"No, you cant scare Me, I'm sticking to the UNION. I'm stickin to the UNION till the day I die" Woody Guthrie

Brad Walker
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Re: Vitrigraph modification

Postby Brad Walker » Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:02 pm

No reason you can't do it that I can think of. Stuff the hole with a scrap of fiber blanket when/if you want to use it as a regular kiln.

Two to three inches is probably a larger hole than you need.

Lynn g
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Re: Vitrigraph modification

Postby Lynn g » Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:14 pm

Bullseye says their vitrigraph base board has a 2.5" hole.;
Lynn g
"Patriotism is not enough, I must have no hatred or bitterness towards anyone." - Dame Edith Cavell

Tony Smith
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Re: Vitrigraph modification

Postby Tony Smith » Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:34 pm

You don't need a hole that large. A 3/4" to 1" hole is large enough.

Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun

KarunaS
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Re: Vitrigraph modification

Postby KarunaS » Thu Sep 06, 2012 1:24 am

The flower pots which hold my glass usually have a 3/4"-1" hole in the bottom. I think having the same size hole in the kiln bottom would make things unnecessarily tight.

Faye Malench
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Re: Vitrigraph modification

Postby Faye Malench » Thu Sep 06, 2012 4:59 pm

If the hole in the kiln bottom or board is too narrow, the glass will exit the pot and stick to the side of the hole, capturing debris as it goes.
If it's too big, the glass at the exit hole of the pot stays too cool - then I use a MAPP torch to get it flowing again. You can also use a layer of thick fiberpaper between the bottom of the pot and the hole if you feel the bigger hole is colling the base of the pot too much. Better too big than too small.
Jim, I bought an old kiln about this same size to use for vitrigraphs. I found it did not heat up enough for flow. I have had a HotStart for a decade but never pushed the temperature that high. Maybe test the top temp range before you drill?

Haydo
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Re: Vitrigraph modification

Postby Haydo » Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:20 am

i've been having trouble for some time with a one in ten success rate on my computer when posting to the forum so I'm taking advantage of a pay as you go puter at a three thousand room mine worker village to see how I fair. Faye has very good advice regarding the entrapment of debris which i've learnt the hard way especially if it is unattended and it manages to bunch up at the aperature.

i'm looking forward to constructing purpose built tall narrow kilns at some stage so that I can try to attempt to better control the pattern within the cane which also means making up different ways to hold the glass for melting. Slower version of what glass blowers do when they strech their bundled glass I imagine.
peace, haydo
Life is like a raft, so be like a rat!...Challenging being a captain type rat though, going down with each ship and all!!

jim burchett
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Re: Vitrigraph modification

Postby jim burchett » Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:20 am

Faye Malench wrote:If the hole in the kiln bottom or board is too narrow, the glass will exit the pot and stick to the side of the hole, capturing debris as it goes.
If it's too big, the glass at the exit hole of the pot stays too cool - then I use a MAPP torch to get it flowing again. You can also use a layer of thick fiberpaper between the bottom of the pot and the hole if you feel the bigger hole is colling the base of the pot too much. Better too big than too small.
Jim, I bought an old kiln about this same size to use for vitrigraphs. I found it did not heat up enough for flow. I have had a HotStart for a decade but never pushed the temperature that high. Maybe test the top temp range before you drill?

Faye, I have used this Kiln for Combing without too much trouble..1650+ so hopefully it will be fine for this purpose..looking now a 11/2" hole. will post when I get around to doing the modification.
"No, you cant scare Me, I'm sticking to the UNION. I'm stickin to the UNION till the day I die" Woody Guthrie

Cheryl
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Re: Vitrigraph modification

Postby Cheryl » Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:40 pm

Jim, I'd use some fiberpaper in the bottom. every now & again, a pot splits and if you don't catch that in time, there's a lot of loose flowing glass that gets everywhere.
"Every artist was first an amateur."

--Ralph Waldo Emerson

Faye Malench
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Re: Vitrigraph modification

Postby Faye Malench » Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:43 am

Cheryl makes a good point about being careful around quartz inversion temperatures to protect your pot. I've never split one but have made a mess of the interior of the kiln by trying to reload a hot pot. If you miss, the molten glass eats the brick. The fiber paper is valuable to avoid that.


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