Help!!! Please!!
Hi, I have decided to purchase a JenKen Oval9 and am confused (not an unusual state) as to which controller to order. There are two (2) choices with this kiln, the 12 Key Orton Controller w/ pyro and the Bartlett 12 Key Digital. I have read that having a pyro sticking out of the side wall makes it difficult to load the kiln shelf with projects already on the shelf.
I really need an experenced voice here. My teenaged son (who knows everything in the world) can't seem to remember the answer to this one! lol
I understand that this may be just a preference but I am hoping someone would be kind enough to give me their preferences and why.
Brock, that would seem to be the case but only one, the Bartlett make's reference to an exposed pyro. Have you ever used either one of the controlers? Steve in Savannah
PS thanks for the reply!!!
Both of them have a thermocouple sticking into the kiln. From my converstions with Jen-Ken in the past they give you a choice of the Bartlet Board or the Orton one. All of the other hardware is the same. The thermocouple is the piece that sticks into the kiln to read the tempreture. The Pyrometer is the meter that the computer is replacing.
If you are more familiar with the programming of one or the other then that is a big difference even though they are not that different.
I have both, I prefer the Bartlet for 2 reasons...1 it stores 6 programs as compared to the one that Paragon supplies that stores 4. So, I would check to see how many programs the Orton stores. The second reason is that I work more with the Bartlet board so I know which buttons to hit in which order to program and to start.
If I knew that there was a choice when I ordered my kiln from Paragon I would have gotten the Bartlet board. I like the 6 programs... I have an extra Bartlet board and the wiring harness to change it out but ..... there is always tomorrow to do it.... and it never seems to be tomorrow... so I seem to be living with it.
The reason that Paragon went with the 4 programs on the orton is so that they can have more segments. The Bartlet board has a max of 6 or 8 segments and you can run two programs together. The Orton board has a much large number for a max. Don't know if you will be running a program of more than 12 or 16 segments. If so, then you definately would want to go to the Orton Board.
But then, I have never found a glass artist that needs more than 12 or 16 segements but I would guess that someone that is doing a really thick cast piece could conceiveably need that many. If there is anyone out there I would love to talk to them.
Enjoy your new kiln and I hope I answered your controller question.. if you need more info contact me via e-mail.
Steve Waters wrote:Brock, that would seem to be the case but only one, the Bartlett make's reference to an exposed pyro. Have you ever used either one of the controlers? Steve in Savannah
PS thanks for the reply!!!
Nope. I can barely handle my Skutt, (which is probably an Orton or Bartlett). It sounds like Stuart helped you. Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
To confuse you a little more.....For the same reason Stuart like's Bartlett controllers I like Orton. Orton is on my Paragon GL24 and when I built my own kiln I put the same controller mostly because I didn't want to learn a different controller. Both are pretty simple to use. On the 4 vs 6 programs, I don't fuse enough of the same thing to 1) keep for "standard" programs 2) even if I did keep 4 or heaven forbid 6 standard programs I'd always be forgeting what program I put where. I just use 1 to fuse 2 to slump 3 to cook kiln washed shelves and 4 for what ever the mood moves me. Every time I fuse I have to check the program and usually change it and the same goes with slumping so having a programmed capability, at least for me, is not a big plus or minus.
Which one is cheaper? All things being equal I'd go for the less bucks.
Definitely get the 12-key Orton. I have two Jen-Kens which have the Orton Auto-Fire but you have to keep pressing a button to go from 1 - 9.
On the 12-Key controller, which is on my new oval Jen-Ken, you just press the number you want.
As far as keeping track of programs, I have piece of paper by each of my kilns showing which program fires which type of glass. It's really a no-brainer.
Steve,
What Judy is saying.. there is a 3 key and a 12 key version of both controllers. Do not get the 3 key. For the kiln that you are looking at they don't come with a 3 key version. The 3 key version comes on less expensive kilns to keep the cost down.
To add to the conversation, in addition to the numbered of stored programs/segements per program/ability to link programs functions, a couple of functions of any controller that I like to use are the ability to add time and/or temp to current segement that is running and also the ability to skip to the next segement.
The GlassMaster controller on my Skutt GM 1414 has these functions and from what I have been able to read in online documentation, the Bartlett 12 Key and Orton 12 Key, and EvenHeat Rampmaster have these functions as well. However...not all 3-key controllers have these functions.
The only reason I really mention it here is because I was looking at purchasing a smaller clamshell type kiln for doing smaller work/raking, and experimental stuff, compatibility testing . The clamshell design seemed to lend itself better to these tasks so started looking at the new Paragon Pearl18. (Although the I really like the Skutt Clamshell product, it's price tag was a bit more than I wanted to pay. And I really wanted something a little more energy efficient and smaller size.
The Pearl18 seemed to have all the features I wanted. However after setting up an intial order...I decided to look at the on-line docs of the Sentry Expre 3 key controller and it DOES NOT not have the ability to add time/temp to a current segement. And because of the current design limitation of the base, there was no way to get the 12 key controller with it. So I actually cancelled my order.
I talked with Paragon and apparently the have another model of the clamshell design being release here at the end of the month that has the 12 controller option)
Being able to add time and temp to a current segement without having to reprogram or screw up the current running program is really important in my opinion when you are working on and testing new projects/techniques. Heck I have even fired the exact same glass in the exact same kiln and it started to bend sooner or later than previous firings. Everyone seems to be in agreement that each kiln has it's own personality that you have to adjust and tweak for and the controller should not get in the way of that tweaking process.
Kind of like popping popcorn in a microwave. (Actually it was popping popcorn while reading the messages here that prompted me to reply to this message though it really had already been responded to adequately).
The newer microwaves have a popcorn button. But depending upon what brand you put in (or even the same brand but purchased from the store at different times)...that preset time may or may not be long enough. Or it may be too long and actually set the popcorn on fire (man that smells).
They also now seem to come standard with an add minutes button..and you can alway turn the thing off if it stops popping and starts to scortch.
So I guess this long winded reply really gets back to looking at the features of any controller (reguardless of brand) you are getting with your kiln. And for people new to controllers...knowing what features of the controllers make using them more of an asset than a pain in the Arse.
I could say "Thanks for the Help", but i've already done that. I just wanted to say thanks! NO WAIT, You guys have been very helpful, I not only know the controller I want, but I am on my way to understanding it. WELL at least I ain't scared of it any more!
Steve in Savannah
Al - I have the 3 key Sentry Xpress controller on my Paragon Caldera. The way I handle the Add Time / Add temp is to make both (or either) of these longer/hotter than I think I'll need. Usually it is the Time that is in question when making a piece and not the temp.
So, if I think it will take 30 minutes, I might set it for 1 hour. Then when the piece is fused/slumped to my liking, I simply use the "Step to Next Segment" function, which consists of pressing the UP arrow key twice. Bingo, you are now in your AFAP segement heading towards anneal soak.
Steve - Call Mike Glotfelty at Jen-Ken, (863) 648-0585. In addition to being the owner of Jen-Ken, he also is a kiln user, and will be able to answer your questions completely.
I could say "Thanks for the Help", but i've already done that. I just wanted to say thanks! NO WAIT, 
You guys have been very helpful, I not only know the controller I want, but I am on my way to understanding it. WELL at least I ain't scared of it any more!