New Slump MOLD
Moderator: Brad Walker
Re: New Slump MOLD
Leslie,
How do you support a mold like this in the kiln? I did something very similar to this a month ago, but made my mold with R&R 910 (trying to use it up). My mold was about 1 inch thick around the entire piece. In the kiln, it cracked into two - I had it supported on kiln posts. The piece still turned out - it was quite an interesting design!
Barb
How do you support a mold like this in the kiln? I did something very similar to this a month ago, but made my mold with R&R 910 (trying to use it up). My mold was about 1 inch thick around the entire piece. In the kiln, it cracked into two - I had it supported on kiln posts. The piece still turned out - it was quite an interesting design!
Barb
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Re: New Slump MOLD
I HAD ALSO thought of doing a mold in Plaster / Silica backed with Uroboros glass mix. I decided that the mold mix 6 will last for years as most of my MM6 molds do so I will show you the set up when I am slumping. The fiber board that I cut out a circle in the center will also be part of my set up. I know lots of people do sinks out there (Bert comes to mind) and I AM sure he can also share some techniques he has used. It is like making a counter top / sink all in one; but has it's draw backs as a sink\ counter; as sometimes thermal shock happens if clients use hot and cold water.
SO this is just 3 large vessel forms for a clients beautiuful wood table that is very big. I am going to use my Dyson dams (you can see them holding down the mold mix 6 in the above photos ) so it does not curl as it is drying.
but yes, it is always important to have the whole set up really well organized. My first attempt was just tooooo small of a kiln BUT I like this idea way way way better as the temp will be very even and mold mix 6 does not thermal shock. So in my mind , this is going to be good.
Les (p.s. how did you dry your mold. Did you hold for 10 hours at 250 to get most of moisture out before going up 50 deg. per hour. This could be also why it cracked. Speed is not a glass artists friend. )
SO this is just 3 large vessel forms for a clients beautiuful wood table that is very big. I am going to use my Dyson dams (you can see them holding down the mold mix 6 in the above photos ) so it does not curl as it is drying.
![Think :-k](./images/smilies/eusa_think.gif)
Les (p.s. how did you dry your mold. Did you hold for 10 hours at 250 to get most of moisture out before going up 50 deg. per hour. This could be also why it cracked. Speed is not a glass artists friend. )
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Re: New Slump MOLD
Thanks Leslie - I did hold for about 9 hours at 300, but I went up at 100 (followed R&R's recommendation)- so that was probably why it cracked in half. But I am curious to see how you are going to support this mold - I propped mine up with kiln posts and I think that could have been also part of my problem. I'll slow down next time. I'm so glad you are so willing to share your processes. Thanks so much.
Barb
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Re: New Slump MOLD
Leslie,
The "waffle board" base looks like a Great Idea for the mold surface!
From past experience, it can be difficult to get enough stickticity or gripshion on the mold where the rim is at its narrowest.
Where did you get the Waffleboard from?
The "waffle board" base looks like a Great Idea for the mold surface!
From past experience, it can be difficult to get enough stickticity or gripshion on the mold where the rim is at its narrowest.
Where did you get the Waffleboard from?
Vitreous Insomnious: Glass cannot sleep?? Oh Oh..... Does this mean I am going manic again??
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Re: New Slump MOLD
As Les said, I routinely make sink drop molds using HD board with the circle cut out. The best shape has a gentle bevel on the edge. I almost always do these larger than I can get from a single board. So I use as many boards as I must to fit the slab. I support the boards using insulating fire bricks. I have tried other stilts like SS pipe, but they didn't work well at all. I cover the entire surface with Unifrax 1/4" fiber blanket. I buy this in a 48" wide roll. The fiber blanket is a world better than fiber papers. The blanket is quite durable relative to papers, and it comes with no binders to burn out. The 1/4" is enough insulation to stop any cold or heat leaks at the seams of the boards. I always powder my blanket with alumina hydrate. My bricks are 4.5" and the board is 1", blanket 1/4", so I can effectively get a 5" deep sink drop without hitting bottom. BTW, Unifrax is the only company I know of worldwide that makes 1/4" blanket. Blanket is more or less sold by the pound, so the thinner blanket is great. It also has less loft than the more common 1/2" blanket.
The trick to avoid heat/cold shock is to not use a localized instant hot water heater, in the bathroom. These get the water too hot. I have never seen one of mine crack from hot water. I am told that the action that will shock the glass most is cooling it quickly after it was filled with hot water. The cold shock is what pops it, not the heat shock. This is a place where COE makes a difference. Borosilicate glasses have a COE in the 30's, Float glass is around 85. The fusing glasses are in the 90's, so are a bit more prone.
The trick to avoid heat/cold shock is to not use a localized instant hot water heater, in the bathroom. These get the water too hot. I have never seen one of mine crack from hot water. I am told that the action that will shock the glass most is cooling it quickly after it was filled with hot water. The cold shock is what pops it, not the heat shock. This is a place where COE makes a difference. Borosilicate glasses have a COE in the 30's, Float glass is around 85. The fusing glasses are in the 90's, so are a bit more prone.
Bert
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Re: New Slump MOLD
Bert , you are always so kind and helpful and I am sure everyone thanks you. I will keep you posted how this one goes. I DO have to hit the bottom as the mold though as the clients want the pieces to sit all on their own so that was my challenge to make all 3 exactly the same slump and hight and everything.
Joe, the waffle is purchased from the hardware store and is standard waffle mesh and really light and flexible to remove easily.
Les
P.S. I like the sound of your fiber 1/4 inch not having to be burned out first to get rid of stuff Bert so you do not get devit or anything. Mind you the float glass is much more durable as you mentioned and not likely to get the devit as no opals are there.
Sooooo many things to think about.
Joe, the waffle is purchased from the hardware store and is standard waffle mesh and really light and flexible to remove easily.
Les
P.S. I like the sound of your fiber 1/4 inch not having to be burned out first to get rid of stuff Bert so you do not get devit or anything. Mind you the float glass is much more durable as you mentioned and not likely to get the devit as no opals are there.
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Re: New Slump MOLD
Well I am very happy so far with the mold and it is set up in a way I will put in kiln. Just have to get the wax out and if I pull the toothpics then I think it will just slip out with out even having to torch.
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Re: New Slump MOLD
A slightly better shot of the wax pulling away .
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Re: New Slump MOLD
![Pray [-o<](./images/smilies/eusa_pray.gif)
![Think :-k](./images/smilies/eusa_think.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
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Re: New Slump MOLD
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
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Re: New Slump MOLD
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Re: New Slump MOLD
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
(a nice 8 inch slump)
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Re: New Slump MOLD
Beautiful !!
Laurie Spray
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Re: New Slump MOLD
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Les
P.S. sorry , forgot about the slump . It was 50 Deg. per hour up to 1230 F., hold for 1 hour, down to 960 F. (as it is a mix of the new Uroboros 90 FX which is really lovely, and Bullseye) anyways, 10 hour hold at 960 , 12 hours down to 800, 12 hours down to 700 and then 15 hours down to room. My kiln takes a long time to cool from 250 F. so usually will turn off.
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Re: New Slump MOLD
Can you say NERVOUS???
Rick Wilton
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Re: New Slump MOLD
Nope, not nervous at all . Rick you are such a professional and extremely confident and good at what you do. It really does look cool. We are trying to get a piece that when stood up looks as if it stands all by itself. Nice work Rick and thank you again for sharing your studio. Les
(and sorry I missed your wife and Anna. BUT luckily after 10 hours of traveling in snow storms I thought I better just get home. ) The Rocky Mountain pass was black ice and very nerve racking . )
(and sorry I missed your wife and Anna. BUT luckily after 10 hours of traveling in snow storms I thought I better just get home. ) The Rocky Mountain pass was black ice and very nerve racking . )
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Re: New Slump MOLD
Thanks for sharing this!! Wonderful, beautiful pieces.
Barb
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Re: New Slump MOLD
I don't have the skill to hand drill a large diameter hole. I use a drill press of one sort or another. I have broken glass trying it with a hand drill, so I respect Rick's skill here.Rick Wilton wrote:This is me drilling by hand two large holes into one of Leslie's beautiful panels. The holes were 60mm (2 3/8") and all the way through the 3/4" thick piece.
Can you say NERVOUS???
Bert
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Re: New Slump MOLD
I think Rick and I felt it was tooo far in to try to drill in the drill press. He had to take a break of nice warm tea between each drilled hole.
|Mind you I had wished for a good shot of rum.
Les
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![Think :-k](./images/smilies/eusa_think.gif)
Les
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