Water System for Coldworking

[lbailey]

I've accumulated a fair amount of coldworking equipment and need to build a waste water system. I have heard about designs that use 2 tanks, the first is a holding tank that allows the suspended gunk to fall out and accumulate on the bottom, to be disposed of later. This tank has an outlet higher up on one wall that spills (relatively) clean water into a discharge tank. I was planning to use a float switch of some sort to activate a small pump that would then move the water out of that tank and out of the studio.

Can someone point me to designs or discussions about this sort of set up? There is limited space in the coldworking area so will have to get creative.

I have a CRL WBS, 12" lap, and a 10" tile saw. Need to keep fresh water supplied to them and then get rid of it......

Thanks

[Marty]

You could get a plumber in but I think an ice-maker setup (from your hardware store) that taps in to your cold water pipes will take care of supply to your machines. If you need more volume then you could go the garden hose route.

For waste- the WBS is easiest since it uses little water- put a bucket underneath and dump it outside periodically, pouring off the cleaner water and disposing of the settled solids.
You can get away with a recycling system for the saw- set up a 2-3 bucket cascade and put a pump in the last one that feeds back to the saw. If you want to keep fresh water coming to the saw then you'll have to pump from the last bucket to waste (your septic, a drywell, sewer) but be very aware of how much sediment is left in the water at that point. A filter (old stockings?) will help.
You will absolutely want fresh water to the lap- recycled water will carry shards and stray diamonds back to the plate to scratch your work just when you think you're done. You could use the same setup as the saw or make another. There should be plenty of space under the machines.
Regarding the buckets- I cut a hole in the side of the bucket near the top and siliconed a short piece of pvc pipe for a spout. You could put the buckets in a large plastic basin and use that as the last overflow if space is tight.
For pumps- larger aquarium pumps or smaller sump or fountain ones work and shouldn't cost a lot. The float option is nice but keep a mop handy all the same.

People say that the glass sediment hardens to concrete; it's not true, you can always take a putty knife to it.

If you want to get more serious about this consider putting a hot/cold mixing valve in. Coldworking with warm water is much nicer.

[Marty]

You're welcome.
Merry Christmas.

[lbailey]

Thanks Marty, was on the road for the holidays, just got back.
This will be my next shop project, I'll post an update when it's done.

[Marty]

Hmm, patience I must learn...
and forbearance also.

[Dick]

You can use pre made plaster traps such as dentists use. In my studio I had large tubs under each piece of equipment, with an outgoing drain line near the top. All the sediment sinks to the bottom. I let it get about 3/4 full, then settle overnight. I then use a small fountain style pump hung in the clear water, and the outgoing stuck in the drain. You can drain this off to any drain, and periodically drain off as much as possible, and scoop out the gook into black garbage bag and dispose. I have also used the plaster traps, and currently have a 5 gallon one set up. works the same way. Pilchuck has gone to putting plaster traps under all sinks, and we use tubs elsewhere, letting stuff settle and decanting clear water.

Hope this helps.

Dick