Colander base removal

Nanette · Post by **Nanette** » Fri Apr 09, 2004 1:07 am

I found a great S/S colander but it has a base on it that would need to come off. Any ideas? Looks like it is tack welded on in maybe in 4 spots. Also any guesses on how hot one would have to take the glass to get it to go thru the pattern cut into the colander? Maybe 1550 or so? Don't want to do that... just curious minds want to know I guess!!

Thanks for any thoughts,

Nanette

Linda Reed · Post by **Linda Reed** » Fri Apr 09, 2004 1:34 am

I found a great S/S colander but it has a base on it that would need to come off. Any ideas?

When I've used a 'new' (to me) wok with handles as a mold, the first time I use it, the handles don't fall off at heat-to-kiln-coat temp (500 dF), but they do at slump temp (1250 - 1300 dF)... I just use it (after kiln wash) and the handles plop off and land on the shelf and that's that - save them for some future undefined project...

. For a colandar base, I would guess you run a risk of the glass shifting if you just heat it with glass in it and the welds melt off... But the tack welds should become undone or unriveted sometime before slump temp. Then your colander will be baseless and free for use once you pick up the pieces... From my experence FWIW anyway.

Linda

Tony Serviente · Post by **Tony Serviente** » Fri Apr 09, 2004 9:16 am

Most stainless kitchenware I have dealt with has had the bases and handles tack welded, and a tack weld will not loosed at kiln forming temps. If a handle or base does come off, that implies that it was brazed or soldered. If it was soldered and a leaded alloy was used, you have now put lead vapor into the air, which is very bad. Welds will look like little dimples in the metals surface, and I am guessing for a colandar base there will be three or four of 'em. I would grab the base near one of the welds, with a big pair of vice grips and flex the base back and forth until the weld pops. The first one will be the hardest. If you can't do it that way then get a flat bladed screwdriver wedged between the weld and the body of the colandar, and use a prying/flexing motion to get it to break free. If you have access to an angle grinder for metal that would be an option too, though most of the time I do it by using the reliable metal fatigue method. Often after there will be a small burr left behind, which you can file off in a few seconds. Wear gloves and safety glasses when you are doing the base removal, and clamp the work if you can.

Nanette · Post by **Nanette** » Fri Apr 09, 2004 10:49 am

Thanks so much for the input. You know I never thought about the lead vapor if they are soldered on. I will check for the dimples before I buy the colander. I do know that I could almost pull the base off at the store!

Thanks again for all the ideas, think I'll go shopping after work today!!

Nanette

Nanette · Post by **Nanette** » Sat Apr 10, 2004 4:29 pm

I did go shopping and when I got home I put on gloves and glasses and pulled that base right off!! The colander has a lip on it, so I put the colander upside down on the floor with my feet on the lip and pulled and pulled and pulled till that base came off! Then filed off the little nubs left on the bottom of the bowl shape. With everyone's input I went for it, my husband didn't think it would come off!

Thanks again,

Nanette