Separators - a comprehensive thread
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Separators - a comprehensive thread
Separators-comprehensive thread
Hello friends,
I thought that a post on separators would be useful to me and to all whom, like me, are a bit confused about the substances which are considered as separators.
Despite my relatively long permanency in the warmglass arena, I remain doubtful with regard to this topic.
I know that Alumina is possibly the best separator, and that it may be mixtured with kaolin to avoid a loose powder coating. In fact, that compound seems to be the one used in commercial separators.
But, why if I use Hidrated Alumina instead, would I expect a calcining temperature where water will be released from the separator?.
Regarding Kaolin, it appears to remain stable up to 1400°F (760°C) when it starts to leave a haze on the glass, thus forcing to renew the separator. Would you agree?.
I read that Whiting, i.e. Calcium Carbonate or Limestone, decomposes at 1517°F (825°C), being that point a limit to the use of Whiting as mold or separator.
I read that Talc (Magnesium Silicate Hidroxide), is used as a separator below 1200°F (650°C) but I don’t know why. Is there a calcining temperature where water is released or what?.
I know that some fusers use even pumice powder as separators, with variable results according to the particular Vulcano Gods.
I would like to know more and deep on separators. Would someone know thermal properties of Alumina, Hidrated Alumina, Kaolin, Whiting, Talc and Pumice?. I am referring to melting or decomposition temperatures, decomposition products (for example, that products from Whiting I guess are Calcium Oxide and Carbon Dioxide), behaviour as separators, and the best way to use each one.
Is there other separator which I have neglected in this post?
Should you consider this post as a valuable theme, please feel free to rebuild it in a more useful dialog tool.
Thank you,
Hello friends,
I thought that a post on separators would be useful to me and to all whom, like me, are a bit confused about the substances which are considered as separators.
Despite my relatively long permanency in the warmglass arena, I remain doubtful with regard to this topic.
I know that Alumina is possibly the best separator, and that it may be mixtured with kaolin to avoid a loose powder coating. In fact, that compound seems to be the one used in commercial separators.
But, why if I use Hidrated Alumina instead, would I expect a calcining temperature where water will be released from the separator?.
Regarding Kaolin, it appears to remain stable up to 1400°F (760°C) when it starts to leave a haze on the glass, thus forcing to renew the separator. Would you agree?.
I read that Whiting, i.e. Calcium Carbonate or Limestone, decomposes at 1517°F (825°C), being that point a limit to the use of Whiting as mold or separator.
I read that Talc (Magnesium Silicate Hidroxide), is used as a separator below 1200°F (650°C) but I don’t know why. Is there a calcining temperature where water is released or what?.
I know that some fusers use even pumice powder as separators, with variable results according to the particular Vulcano Gods.
I would like to know more and deep on separators. Would someone know thermal properties of Alumina, Hidrated Alumina, Kaolin, Whiting, Talc and Pumice?. I am referring to melting or decomposition temperatures, decomposition products (for example, that products from Whiting I guess are Calcium Oxide and Carbon Dioxide), behaviour as separators, and the best way to use each one.
Is there other separator which I have neglected in this post?
Should you consider this post as a valuable theme, please feel free to rebuild it in a more useful dialog tool.
Thank you,
Hugo
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Hugo
My knowledge is practical not scientific. The alumina that I use is flour of alumina hydrate. The trick is to get the finest ground product that you can get. Since most suppliers only carry one type, you get what they get. I believe that Bullseye seperator is made with alumina hydrate that is very fine. That is one edge they have, being a manufacturer that can buy a particular grade.
Kaolin does indeed leave a haze on the second firing above 1400ºF
I have found that whiting works well for 1250º but not for fuse firings
Talc is used by people doing low fire slumps for the lighting and furniture trades.
For fuse firings on a kiln shelf, I prefer 80% alumina / 20% kaolin. Remove after every fuse firing. This formula wipes off with a paper towel.
For slump firings on Stainless steel molds I prefer 50/50. More kaolin makes it harder and it will last for many firings.
For dry powder that I coat blanket with and use to create textures, I mix alumina, diatomaceous earth, and plaster. I don't know the proportions. Too much plaster is not good.
I have never worked with Boron Nitride. It comes in formulas that will last at various temperatures. I would like to try some that is made for fuse firings some day.
Bert[/quote]
My knowledge is practical not scientific. The alumina that I use is flour of alumina hydrate. The trick is to get the finest ground product that you can get. Since most suppliers only carry one type, you get what they get. I believe that Bullseye seperator is made with alumina hydrate that is very fine. That is one edge they have, being a manufacturer that can buy a particular grade.
Kaolin does indeed leave a haze on the second firing above 1400ºF
I have found that whiting works well for 1250º but not for fuse firings
Talc is used by people doing low fire slumps for the lighting and furniture trades.
For fuse firings on a kiln shelf, I prefer 80% alumina / 20% kaolin. Remove after every fuse firing. This formula wipes off with a paper towel.
For slump firings on Stainless steel molds I prefer 50/50. More kaolin makes it harder and it will last for many firings.
For dry powder that I coat blanket with and use to create textures, I mix alumina, diatomaceous earth, and plaster. I don't know the proportions. Too much plaster is not good.
I have never worked with Boron Nitride. It comes in formulas that will last at various temperatures. I would like to try some that is made for fuse firings some day.
Bert[/quote]
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Mica can be sifted onto the shelf and used as a separator as well. My understanding is that potters use it. I have used it for full fuse on small pieces and it works very well, but it also leaves a mother-of-pearl sheen on the surface of the glass as some of the mica fuses into the glass surface... not a bad thing if that is what you are looking for.
The big problem is that ithe mica moves with the air currents and ends up everywhere if you aren't really careful.
Tony
The big problem is that ithe mica moves with the air currents and ends up everywhere if you aren't really careful.
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
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TonyTony Smith wrote:Mica can be sifted onto the shelf and used as a separator as well. My understanding is that potters use it. I have used it for full fuse on small pieces and it works very well, but it also leaves a mother-of-pearl sheen on the surface of the glass as some of the mica fuses into the glass surface... not a bad thing if that is what you are looking for.
The big problem is that ithe mica moves with the air currents and ends up everywhere if you aren't really careful.
Tony
Is there a cheap source of Mica relative to pearlex?
Bert
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The non-colored mica powder can be purchased in bulk. I'll check with Patty Gray to see where the potters get it. I know the colored micas can be purchased in bulk from Sepp Leaf in New York.
Tony
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
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Bert and Tony,
Thank you a lot. When I fired natural mica (Muscovite Mica), the one which is used in some appliances like old irons, I have found that my particular micas went through a calcining transformation around 1450°F (800°C). So, I wonder whether you have to first cure micas when used as a separator prior to a full fusing, to avoid bubbling from calcining.
It is easy to tell whether a mica is calcined or not. Natural mica is almost transparent, clear or light gray, while calcined is notably opaque and nicely colored, looking like gold, platinum or silver.
I remembered that some people use a silica fluor bed as a separator when fusing large sheets. Is this right?.
Thank you a lot. When I fired natural mica (Muscovite Mica), the one which is used in some appliances like old irons, I have found that my particular micas went through a calcining transformation around 1450°F (800°C). So, I wonder whether you have to first cure micas when used as a separator prior to a full fusing, to avoid bubbling from calcining.
It is easy to tell whether a mica is calcined or not. Natural mica is almost transparent, clear or light gray, while calcined is notably opaque and nicely colored, looking like gold, platinum or silver.
I remembered that some people use a silica fluor bed as a separator when fusing large sheets. Is this right?.
Hugo
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Re: Separators - a comprehensive thread
Yo Patagonia BoyHugo Gavarini wrote:Separators-comprehensive thread
Hello friends,
I thought that a post on separators would be useful to me and to all whom, like me, are a bit confused about the substances which are considered as separators.
Despite my relatively long permanency in the warmglass arena, I remain doubtful with regard to this topic.
I know that Alumina is possibly the best separator, and that it may be mixtured with kaolin to avoid a loose powder coating. In fact, that compound seems to be the one used in commercial separators.
But, why if I use Hidrated Alumina instead, would I expect a calcining temperature where water will be released from the separator?.
Regarding Kaolin, it appears to remain stable up to 1400°F (760°C) when it starts to leave a haze on the glass, thus forcing to renew the separator. Would you agree?.
I read that Whiting, i.e. Calcium Carbonate or Limestone, decomposes at 1517°F (825°C), being that point a limit to the use of Whiting as mold or separator.
I read that Talc (Magnesium Silicate Hidroxide), is used as a separator below 1200°F (650°C) but I don’t know why. Is there a calcining temperature where water is released or what?.
I know that some fusers use even pumice powder as separators, with variable results according to the particular Vulcano Gods.
I would like to know more and deep on separators. Would someone know thermal properties of Alumina, Hidrated Alumina, Kaolin, Whiting, Talc and Pumice?. I am referring to melting or decomposition temperatures, decomposition products (for example, that products from Whiting I guess are Calcium Oxide and Carbon Dioxide), behaviour as separators, and the best way to use each one.
Is there other separator which I have neglected in this post?
Should you consider this post as a valuable theme, please feel free to rebuild it in a more useful dialog tool.
Thank you,
My mix is
50 /50 china clay ( kaolin ) / calcined alumina (realy fine)
U can run this in a ball mill 2 get finer
2 this mix I add
Bentonite enough so not settle fast
+ gum arabic ( enough so not B dusty )
Everyting apart from the alumina could give U problems
I always fire slow n vent till 700c
I never clean off just repaint where needed
Here is an old post
Dug this out 4 Ya
Calcium Carbonate Ca CO3 whiting
Calcium Oxide Ca O Lime
plaster of paris Ca O4 . 1/2 H2 O
O is oxigen
I am not shure if they behave the same 4 us
Not got a high temp 4 them as the gas part burns off
Just found melt temt for Ca O Which I guess it ends up as
2580 C - 4676 F
But I belived if U go high it melts
Well maybe I am wrong
While we R on this
Talk is Steatite also magnesium silicate + water 3Mg O . 4SiO2 . H2O
Havent got a melt temp 4 this but its a flux in ceramics I belive
I use it as a mould seporator I dont take it higher
Do UR own tests
Or
To B safe I would recomend a bat wash mix such as
China clay alumina
Shuch as Lovely Lanis Pink ( Bullseye Kiln Wash )
I Miss U Lani U out there ??
Take care when reading posts that U R gona go to the same temps
Wash Boy
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Re: Separators - a comprehensive thread
I am shure zircon has a realy high melt tempHugo Gavarini wrote:Separators-comprehensive thread
Hello friends,
I thought that a post on separators would be useful to me and to all whom, like me, are a bit confused about the substances which are considered as separators.
Despite my relatively long permanency in the warmglass arena, I remain doubtful with regard to this topic.
I know that Alumina is possibly the best separator, and that it may be mixtured with kaolin to avoid a loose powder coating. In fact, that compound seems to be the one used in commercial separators.
But, why if I use Hidrated Alumina instead, would I expect a calcining temperature where water will be released from the separator?.
Regarding Kaolin, it appears to remain stable up to 1400°F (760°C) when it starts to leave a haze on the glass, thus forcing to renew the separator. Would you agree?.
I read that Whiting, i.e. Calcium Carbonate or Limestone, decomposes at 1517°F (825°C), being that point a limit to the use of Whiting as mold or separator.
I read that Talc (Magnesium Silicate Hidroxide), is used as a separator below 1200°F (650°C) but I don’t know why. Is there a calcining temperature where water is released or what?.
I know that some fusers use even pumice powder as separators, with variable results according to the particular Vulcano Gods.
I would like to know more and deep on separators. Would someone know thermal properties of Alumina, Hidrated Alumina, Kaolin, Whiting, Talc and Pumice?. I am referring to melting or decomposition temperatures, decomposition products (for example, that products from Whiting I guess are Calcium Oxide and Carbon Dioxide), behaviour as separators, and the best way to use each one.
Is there other separator which I have neglected in this post?
Should you consider this post as a valuable theme, please feel free to rebuild it in a more useful dialog tool.
Thank you,
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No Troubles with Bubbles
Very smooth. No bubbles at all.Dee wrote:brad - the fusion shelves - are they smooth? also what about bubbles on larger pieces?
D
My understanding is that when they first introduced the shelves they did have troubles with bubbles, but they seem to have solved that problem.
I'm using a 12" square shelf, so don't have the ability to test for really large pieces. So far it's performed as well as I could hope for, but I want to do some more firings and use some different types of glass.
If I end up really liking the shelves, I may try to get set up as a distributor. There's certainly potential here.
Re: No Troubles with Bubbles
ok, talk to sara creekmore about them - she tried the early version, we've talked about them and that's why i had those 2 questions ;P i had seen their ad in the glass craftsmen magazine tho' i have noticed the last issue didn't have an ad from themBrad Walker wrote:Very smooth. No bubbles at all.Dee wrote:brad - the fusion shelves - are they smooth? also what about bubbles on larger pieces?
D
My understanding is that when they first introduced the shelves they did have troubles with bubbles, but they seem to have solved that problem.
I'm using a 12" square shelf, so don't have the ability to test for really large pieces. So far it's performed as well as I could hope for, but I want to do some more firings and use some different types of glass.
If I end up really liking the shelves, I may try to get set up as a distributor. There's certainly potential here.
D
Aii Yii Yii, my first attempt at the board.
Brad, I received two 12"x12" squares last October or November. This was in the first phase of Fusion Shield's product. They arrived with crumpled corners and all scratched up. I have been promised new shelves on at least 3 occasions when I've phoned . . .so far with no results.
Good point, I can fuse without kilnwash!!! Bad points, so far very very POOR SERVICE and even though I've drilled holes all across the test shelves I still get huge bubbles. It does sound like you may have their newer prototypes. I hope they read this and send me the shelves I ordered There is great possibility and I personally believe if Customer Service improves they will be worth the monies:)
Warm glass regards,
Sara
Brad, I received two 12"x12" squares last October or November. This was in the first phase of Fusion Shield's product. They arrived with crumpled corners and all scratched up. I have been promised new shelves on at least 3 occasions when I've phoned . . .so far with no results.
Good point, I can fuse without kilnwash!!! Bad points, so far very very POOR SERVICE and even though I've drilled holes all across the test shelves I still get huge bubbles. It does sound like you may have their newer prototypes. I hope they read this and send me the shelves I ordered There is great possibility and I personally believe if Customer Service improves they will be worth the monies:)
Warm glass regards,
Sara
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Couldn't agree more, Sara.
There are a number of things about the company that worry me, starting with their discount structure to retailers (it's horrible), their sales materials (lots of mispellings and such), and the lead times to get the shelves (way too long).
But the version of the product I'm trying does seem to be an improvement over the earlier one. The shelves are smooth, arrived in good shape, and are working well so far. I'm told that the earlier shelves had significant outgassing (the bubbles!), which I'm not seeing this time around.
Bottom line: the jury's still out, but so far I've been pleased with the results. I'll write again after I've had some more experience.
There are a number of things about the company that worry me, starting with their discount structure to retailers (it's horrible), their sales materials (lots of mispellings and such), and the lead times to get the shelves (way too long).
But the version of the product I'm trying does seem to be an improvement over the earlier one. The shelves are smooth, arrived in good shape, and are working well so far. I'm told that the earlier shelves had significant outgassing (the bubbles!), which I'm not seeing this time around.
Bottom line: the jury's still out, but so far I've been pleased with the results. I'll write again after I've had some more experience.
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Colin wrote:Zircon flour is used in face coats by some bronze casters..so why not glass?? the cost could be a factor?? ... around five times the price of alumna hyd..
Colin
Hello!
I was looking into the matter and have found some information which I would like to share, for what it’s worth.
Hydrated Alumina – chemical formula Al2O3.3H20
When heated this product first loses its water of crystallization at 392°F (200°C) remaining almost pure alumina (Al2O3) which melting point is 3704°F (2040°C). I believe this is called Activated Alumina also, and that it is a very hygroscopic substance, turning back to hydrated alumina if exposed to moisture (when the kiln is kept opened at room temperature). Then, I guess that only hydrated alumina is the commonly commercial available product. We are actually alternating alumina to activated and hydrated forms when heating and cooling it in the kiln. So, beware alumina outgassing up to 392°F!.
Zircon (Zirconium Silicate) – chemical formula ZrSiO4 - Melting point 3992°F (2200°C)
Zirconia (Zirconium Dioxide) – chemical formula ZrO2 - Melting point 4892°F (2700°C)
I don’t know whether Zircon or Zirconia is the material suitable as separator, but I have found that both are used to make glass crucibles.
A note on Zirconium. It carries naturally occurring radioactive elements of the uranium and thorium series. Radiological hazard by inhalation of dust. Although low radiation level, consult MSDS!.
Hugo
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To add confusion,
when I make a mold for frit casting, the piece is first covered with a splash layer. If that layer is pure plaster, it cracks.
Now I am testing with a 50/50 mixture of kilnwash and
plaster. The first experiment worked fine.
As Hugo mentioned, when kaolin is heated over 760 C
it starts to bond, even to glass. So maybe a mixture
of plaster and aluminium oxide works better.
Have not tried it yet.
-lauri
when I make a mold for frit casting, the piece is first covered with a splash layer. If that layer is pure plaster, it cracks.
Now I am testing with a 50/50 mixture of kilnwash and
plaster. The first experiment worked fine.
As Hugo mentioned, when kaolin is heated over 760 C
it starts to bond, even to glass. So maybe a mixture
of plaster and aluminium oxide works better.
Have not tried it yet.
-lauri
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Another thing U could look at is titanium dioxideHugo Gavarini wrote:Colin wrote:Zircon flour is used in face coats by some bronze casters..so why not glass?? the cost could be a factor?? ... around five times the price of alumna hyd..
Colin
Hello!
I was looking into the matter and have found some information which I would like to share, for what it’s worth.
Hydrated Alumina – chemical formula Al2O3.3H20
When heated this product first loses its water of crystallization at 392°F (200°C) remaining almost pure alumina (Al2O3) which melting point is 3704°F (2040°C). I believe this is called Activated Alumina also, and that it is a very hygroscopic substance, turning back to hydrated alumina if exposed to moisture (when the kiln is kept opened at room temperature). Then, I guess that only hydrated alumina is the commonly commercial available product. We are actually alternating alumina to activated and hydrated forms when heating and cooling it in the kiln. So, beware alumina outgassing up to 392°F!.
Zircon (Zirconium Silicate) – chemical formula ZrSiO4 - Melting point 3992°F (2200°C)
Zirconia (Zirconium Dioxide) – chemical formula ZrO2 - Melting point 4892°F (2700°C)
I don’t know whether Zircon or Zirconia is the material suitable as separator, but I have found that both are used to make glass crucibles.
A note on Zirconium. It carries naturally occurring radioactive elements of the uranium and thorium series. Radiological hazard by inhalation of dust. Although low radiation level, consult MSDS!.
Again very high melt temps
I do have some further ideas if U R on the quest 4 the elusive holly grail of
Mirror Wash tm
sara: have you tried sanding or milling them flat?Sara wrote:Good point, I can fuse without kilnwash!!! Bad points, so far very very POOR SERVICE and even though I've drilled holes all across the test shelves I still get huge bubbles. It does sound like you may have their newer prototypes. I hope they read this and send me the shelves I ordered There is great possibility and I personally believe if Customer Service improves they will be worth the monies:)
Warm glass regards,
Sara
brad: is this a surface product that is fired onto the board during manufacturing, or is it a property of the material so would be through the board?
if the former, then i would suppose one can't sand or polish the board.