110-J paper for kiln shelves - any good or bad remarks?

deborahbur · Post by **deborahbur** » Tue Apr 29, 2003 9:11 am

Has anyone used it and was it good, great, bad or do you have anything else you have used that you would prefer?

Thanks

Brock · Post by **Brock** » Tue Apr 29, 2003 10:22 am

IMNSHO, nothing beats a well prepared kiln shelf. Brock

Brad Walker · Post by **Brad Walker** » Tue Apr 29, 2003 11:11 am

Brock wrote:IMNSHO, nothing beats a well prepared kiln shelf. Brock

I don't know, if you use nothing doesn't the glass stick to the shelf? :badgrin:

Seriously, I would agree that a well-prepared kiln-washed kiln shelf may give you the smoothest bottom surface, provided that your firing schedule is slow and low enough also. (Notice that I said "may" -- I say that because I've had several very good firings from the Fusion Shield shelves, which have left a surface every bit as smooth as kiln wash, and are literally, "nothing" on the kiln shelf. In fact, if I take the same care with the Fusion Shield shelves that I do with a kiln-washed shelf, I seem to get equivalent results with less effort.)

Some of the other products out there, like thinfire and 110 paper, do have a purpose, especially for those who don't want to take the time to prepare their shelves or who don't want to spend hundreds of dollars for the Fusion Shield product. To answer Deborah's question, 110 paper works in terms of keeping the glass from sticking to the shelf, but it doesn't leave as smooth a bottom surface as kiln wash. You can achieve a smoother finish by sprinkling the surface of the paper with kiln wash powder, and it will last a fairly long time. I use 110 more often than I use kiln wash (mostly because I'm lazy, I guess), especially when an ultra smooth bottom surface isn't essential.

(Disclaimer: I'm biased, because I sell the 110 paper, but even if I sold kiln wash also I think I'd come to the same conclusion.)

Jacques Bordeleau · Post by **Jacques Bordeleau** » Tue Apr 29, 2003 1:41 pm

I switched to fusing almost everything on the 110 some years ago.... because I kept blowing holes right through my glass when firing on kiln-wash. The paper allows the trapped air to escape from underneath = no more blowouts. I like the texure ... some don't. I may try that sifting on wash trick pretty soon, it sounds interesting. In my big kiln I often 'top' the 2 layers of Ultra-Felt with a layer of 110 as well, which gives me a texture I prefer and slows the degradation of the felt. The felt evens out the brick floor. I gave up on large shelves years ago, and am still waiting for someone else to solve that riddle for me. I do still use 20" shelves in the smaller kilns.

regards, Jacques

Judy Schnabel · Post by **Judy Schnabel** » Tue Apr 29, 2003 7:49 pm

I'm with Brad regarding the 110-J and possibly "being lazy." I hate stripping shelves.

I haven't stripped a shelf and put new kiln wash on in probably two-three years.

I use the 110-J exclusively and sprinkle dry BE kiln wash on it for a super smooth surface (thanks to Brad's suggestion).

To each his own. I fire a lot of liquor bottles that would take the kiln wash off each time I fired my kiln. Even firing Grey Goose, etc., by sprinkling the dry BE kiln wash on the 110-J, the paper lasts a lot longer.

Some fusers claim they can strip and re-do a shelf in five minutes. Seems as though it would take longer than five minutes just to fire the shelf to 500 degrees. That's not me!!!!

Judy

Ron Coleman · Post by **Ron Coleman** » Tue Apr 29, 2003 9:50 pm

110J gives a nice texture when firing irid side down without any dry kiln wash applied.

The only down side I find is firing glass against it without any dry kiln wash and then later changing your mind and want to flip the piece over. 110j leaves a coating on the glass that is impossible to remove without sandblasting. This is especially bad on black BE when the 110j is new.

Another thing, if you use dry kiln wash be careful how you lay the glass down or you will get a Poof of dusty wash on top of your glass.

Ron