Angle grinders -felisatti and MK diamond questions

[Jason Boebinger]

Why would'nt I just get a sandblasting booth?

[Amy Schleif-Mohr]

Jason,

The Felesetti gives you a different kind of finish to the surface of the glass. It's much smoother and more refined feeling than the "pitted" surface from sandblasting.

Amy

[Phil Hoppes]

You can change grit size from 50 - 200 - 400 - 800 in about 2 seconds with a wet grinder. That task would take about 2 hours/grit change and you would never really get it clean. Seriously, once you set up a sandblaster, you set it up for one grit size only. If you really want multiple grits with sandblasting, you need multiple chambers to do it right.

You don't have to grind a surface, it's a personal thing I guess. The finish I think is just SO much nicer. It depends too on the type of work you do, for instance if you cap your work there is probably no need what so ever for a surface grinder. My work uses lots of glass in strips. I know Amy's work is high fire techniques, both of which mess up the surface after the first firing.

Phil

[Tony Smith]

Why would'nt I just get a sandblasting booth?

Sandblasting leaves a "tooth" on the surface... like a fine sandpaper. Some people really like the look and feel. But after grinding the glass, it is so smooth... not glossy smooth like a full fused surface, but smooth and soft... it really makes you want to touch the glass.

Tony

[Candy Kahn]

A couple of points that have not been hit. Do you use any abrasives when you use the felisatti? Tony, from you last comment about the smooth surface. Do you refire the piece to fire polish after you use the grinder? Amy do you refire or just leave the surface as is? If you don't refire do you coat the finish with something like car wax? I am trying to get a handle on cold working and improving the finishes on my work.

Also, Marty mentioned the varietch and its use after sandblasting. Has anyone tried this after using the felisatti - does it make sense to do so?

Thanks for all your replies,

candy

CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET THE EMOTICONS OVER HERE. POOH!!

[Amy Schleif-Mohr]

A couple of points that have not been hit. Do you use any abrasives when you use the felisatti? Tony, from you last comment about the smooth surface. Do you refire the piece to fire polish after you use the grinder? Amy do you refire or just leave the surface as is? If you don't refire do you coat the finish with something like car wax? I am trying to get a handle on cold working and improving the finishes on my work.

Also, Marty mentioned the varietch and its use after sandblasting. Has anyone tried this after using the felisatti - does it make sense to do so?

Thanks for all your replies,

candy

CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET THE EMOTICONS OVER HERE. POOH!!

Candy,

When you buy the Felesetti, you need to additionally buy the diamond disks that you use as an abrasive. The diamonds are imbedded in the rubber that is attached to a velcro backing that you just stick on the rubber backer pad. (This rubber backer pad does not come with the grinder so it's also an additional purchase).

So far I have fired a final time after using the grinder because I have needed to slump the glass pieces. I would like to try to go up through say 1500 grit to see what kind of finish I get with that without firing a final time.

Amy

[Jack Bowman]

Phil,

thank you for the reply on respirators. I did 5 years in a magnesium plant where you had a respirator in your posession at all times, chlorine. Then 20 in an oil refinery. Started in steel mills. So I've inhaled my share of bad things and worn my share of respirators. I was hoping to be done with that except when using dusts. But, you are right and I will where it even when working wet.

BTW, so far my work station is the bathtub. I put a plastic sign in the bottom and hook my grinder up to the shower hose. Earplugs are a must.

Anybody get a banging noise when the grinder is used at slow speed? 1-2 setting?

Jack

[Amy Schleif-Mohr]

I've been thinking about this resporator stuff for a while, and of course reading what everyone thinks here and over at craft web. I can't remember who it was over there, maybe Pete V., but they made a point about just using a high end dust mask when working wet. They backed it up by saying that the wet mist can clog up your filters and premote bacteria growth. So since the dust is encapsulated in the water molecules a high end dust mask is what you need because it's disposable.

Amy

[charlie]

Phil,

thank you for the reply on respirators. I did 5 years in a magnesium plant where you had a respirator in your posession at all times, chlorine. Then 20 in an oil refinery. Started in steel mills. So I've inhaled my share of bad things and worn my share of respirators. I was hoping to be done with that except when using dusts. But, you are right and I will where it even when working wet.

BTW, so far my work station is the bathtub. I put a plastic sign in the bottom and hook my grinder up to the shower hose. Earplugs are a must.

Anybody get a banging noise when the grinder is used at slow speed? 1-2 setting?

Jack

that's the kids trying to get in to use the bathroom.

hope you're not flushing all the glass dust down the drain. if so, you'll have to call a plumber to repipe the tub after a while. that's NOT a fun job, especially if you have to take out a wall to do so.

[Jack Bowman]

Yep, the glass goes right down the drain. Total of less than 2 hours grinding time. I'll build a station that will serve my grinder, belt sander, and saw as soon as the new kiln is firing. Any day now I hope.

Charlie, I dropped the ball on the lap but I have some ideas. I want to check out the feasibility of using the drive guts from a washing machine. Average bid on a 24" cast iron plate with hub was $100. In any event the kiln and grinding station are first. If I use fresh water I will have a knock out drum to catch the glass powder. I don't want to mess up the drain because I'm the only plumber my wife allows me to call.

Jack

[Eli Petrova]

Question for Amy: How much of the finish do you loose when slumping after using the Felisatti? I have one and love the finish you get with 1500 pad but have not slumped yet.

Thank you,
Eli

[Amy Schleif-Mohr]

Eli,

I don't know, I only have up to 800. When I buy some replacement 50s I was also going to order the higher grits. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Amy

[Phil Hoppes]

I only go up to a 400 and then I fire polish. I'm not sure you will see much difference above that if you are going to firepolish. If you are going to slump below 1200 you will probably see a difference.

I'm out of 50's too so I'm going to order some more and get some higher number finishing wheels when I do.

Phil

[Mark Selleck]

I'm curious.....Has anyone considered using an air-supplied hood instead of a dust mask? This assumes an air source, so this would only apply to those with a decent size compressor. I do a lot of large-scale sand-carved work, and work with a positive air-flow helmet/hood. The constant flow of air through the hood(filtered after the compressor tank) keeps any ambient air/dust from entering. The hood has replaceable plastic film faceplates for eye protection. I'm considering setting myself up to use a hood rather than hanging a dust mask on my nose( I've had the "pleasure" of dealing with that in the past, and didn't enjoy it.) A hood is moderately expensive, but a very effective way to eliminate dust. I've thought about using it in grinding and tile saw work situations. I've also considered the possibility of using it around the kiln, in situations where fumes from lusters, etc., might be in the air, and not desireable in one's lungs. Comments?

[Jack Bowman]

A hood with positive air flow is much better than a respirator if you can afford it and don't mind being in a hood. My nose starts itching the moment I put a hood on. The filtration system is important to make sure you're not breathing any oil mist. Breathing air compressors and utility air compressors are completly different animals. Also the air quality at the compressor intake is important.

Jack