help with Jen-Ken kiln

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Vickie
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2003 7:57 pm

help with Jen-Ken kiln

Post by Vickie »

I just received my new Jen-Ken kiln. It has an Orton controller. This is my first kiln with this "fancy" computerized stuff, and I'm lost!
The instructions are pretty limited, and I can't quite get it. It LOOKS easy, but one part has 8 steps to setting a firing schedule, and then another page has 5 pre-programmed quick schedules. I'm SCARED to death to use it. I just want to have some fun fusing and slumping!!! One of the "Quick" set-ups will fore at 600/min, is this to fast...is this the one I should use to do a fuse>>>This dufus needs assistance.
Vickie
Steve Immerman
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Post by Steve Immerman »

The firing schedule depends on what you are firing ie what kind of glass, how thick, how large, and what effect you want. You might want to check the turorials on this site, search the archives, and check the Bullseye Firing and Annealing Schedules at this link: http://www.bullseye-glass.com/techinfo/fire.html

If you need a specific schedule for a specific piece, post what you want to do and I'm sure someone will respond with a typical firing schedule.

Steve
cindyj

Schedule

Post by cindyj »

I also was scared to try out my kiln when I first saw the controller. I was fortunate enough to have purchased it through Centre DeVerre and Marty walked me through my first test firing. I know am able to alter the schedules and have 4 programs that are saved.

My generic schedule is 350pdh to 930 hold for 10 minutes
300 dph to 1450 hold for 10 (or 20 depending on the glass)
250 to 930 hold for 30
natural cool-mine seems to cool at 150 dph

This schedule works for me for two layers with design on top. I'm generally doing small bowls, sushi plates or tiles.

Good luck
Larry Lunsford
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Post by Larry Lunsford »

Hi Vickie. I'm new to warm glass and I too have a Jen-Ken kiln. If you have the same controller that I do (Orton 12 key), then here's how to enter the firing schedule mentioned by Cindyj:

Firing Schedule:
Segment 1: 350 dph to 930, hold for 0:10
Segment 2: 300 dph to 1450, hold for 0:10
Segment 3: 250 dph to 930, hold for 0:30
Segment 4: natural cool to room temp.

When you turn on your kiln, it should be alternating between IDLE and the current temperature in the kiln (should be room temp).

When entering firing schedules, you need to pick a user program (1 to 4) and you need to enter the following for each segment: ramp rate (degrees per hour), target temperature, and time to hold at the target temperature.

Entering a value of 0 for ramp rate tells the controller you're done with the program.

Entering a value of 9999 for ramp rate tells the controller to heat the kiln as fast as possible.

So, if your kiln is at idle, the exact key sequence you need is as follows:
Keys you press are in square brackets, other stuff is comments.

Press [User Program] [1] [Enter]
The display should now toggle between rA 1 (ramp rate for segment 1) and the current value in the controller's memory.
Press [3][5][0][Enter]
This inputs a value of 350 dph for segment 1.

The display should now toggle between degree F 1 and the value currently in its memory for the target value for segment 1.
Press [9][3][0][Enter]
This tells the controller your target temp is 930.

The display should now toggle between Hd 1 and the value in its memory for the hold time for segment 1.
Press [1][0][Enter]
This tells the controller you want to hold for 10 minutes.

The remaining segments are input similiarly.

Press [3][0][0][Enter] for 300 dph for ramp 2.
Press [1][4][5][0][Enter] for 1450 degrees.
Press [1][0][Enter] for hold time of 10 minutes.

Press [2][5][0][Enter] for 250 dph for ramp 3.
Press [9][3][0][Enter] for 930 degrees.
Press [3][0][Enter] for hold time of 30 minutes.

Press [0][Enter] for 0 dph for ramp 4. Tells the controller that you're done with the program.

The controller should now go back to displaying IDLE and the temp.

Press [START] to start the firing program.

Due to the limits of the LED display, the characters are sometimes cryptic and it mixes upper and lower case.

I hope this didn't just add to your confusing.

Good luck.

Larry
Vickie
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2003 7:57 pm

Jen Ken kiln

Post by Vickie »

I had a previous post about how to work the computerized controller on my new kiln. Just to clarify, I have the Orton controller, 3 key, not the 12. Any help will be apreciated. Also, now that i can make larger projects, where is a good place to order glass from, and what size should I get. I am looking at a square mold that is 18" The biggest glass I could find was from Centre de Verre, measuring 35x20. They also have a 16x20 size, but that will be just a smidge to small. Now that I have this larger kiln, that I don't know how to work, I also have the problem of where to buy larger sized glass!!!!!!!!!!! Will it never end!!!!
Thanks all,
Vickie
Chris - L.I.
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Post by Chris - L.I. »

I was just wondering if you have a window on your kiln. I just ordered one from Marty and decided to add the window.
Paul Tarlow
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Post by Paul Tarlow »

Chris - L.I. wrote:I was just wondering if you have a window on your kiln. I just ordered one from Marty and decided to add the window.
I have a Jen Ken with the window (http://www.izm.com/glass/open.jpg) -- and I can't imagine not having it. It was absolutely worth the money.

- Paul
Brad Walker
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Post by Brad Walker »

The window is great for the first few years, but eventually goes cloudy and becomes useless. Mine took about five years to go from "best thing since sliced bread" to "just crumbs".

I suspect how long the window lasts depends on how much glue and other organic materials you fire.
Vickie
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2003 7:57 pm

thank you to all

Post by Vickie »

Thank you to all that have responed to my question. i have tried to e-mail each of you, but my computer is in a funk, and it didn't go through. So this is for all of you...thank you. Especially you, Larry. That was such a detailed instruction for the Orton controller. Unfortunately, mine is the 3 digit, while your's is the 12...but you gave me a start.
Vickie
Paul Tarlow
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Post by Paul Tarlow »

Brad Walker wrote:The window is great for the first few years, but eventually goes cloudy and becomes useless. Mine took about five years to go from "best thing since sliced bread" to "just crumbs".

I suspect how long the window lasts depends on how much glue and other organic materials you fire.
Is the cloudyness in the window or on the surface?

- Paul
Brad Walker
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Post by Brad Walker »

Paul Tarlow wrote:Is the cloudyness in the window or on the surface?
It's hard to tell for sure, but I think both. You definitely can't clean it off.
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