drilling in glass

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mapgirlie

drilling in glass

Post by mapgirlie »

i'm having drilling troubles...
first - i drill in water but find i'm having trouble getting the hole in the correct spot because the water distorts where i'm placing the drill (i am using a drill press). and my mark that i've drawn on with a sharpie often doesn't stick under water. any brilliant ideas for hitting the centre mark when drilling under water?

also... i get the shatter at the back when drilling. i've found some tips by searching that i'm gonna try to reduce this. but i've wundered whether there's a way i can drill the hole before firing the glass, if there was something i could put in the hole that won't stick during fusing. i don't know what i could use though... anyone try something like this.

thanks so much.
diana :?
Kitty
Posts: 444
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 4:12 pm
Location: Gig Harbor, WA

Post by Kitty »

yes you can pre-drill the hole. stuff it with a bit of previously-fired fiberpaper. it'll fire-polish and the hole will remain. if the water is distorting your vision, try shallower water. chipping on back might reduce if you go more slowly. i find hole-drilling works best when done slowly, with gentle pressure. you could make a little wooden jig to hold your piece when it's being drilled, so it doesn't shift. kitty.
John

Post by John »

Where Iwork we use a white paint marker on the glass. you may have to make sure that the glass has no oily residue on it before drawing. The brand of marker is "edding 792 paint marker' 0.8mm tip.(sorry,metric) You may want to try stationary stores. On a more slightly useful note we toughen all our glass with these pen marks all over it and the markes wipe off after toughening. no residue burnt into the glass.
' 0.8mm tip.(sorry,metric) You may want to try stationary stores.On a more slightly useful note we toughen all our glass with these pen marks all over it and the markes wipe off after toughening. no residue burnt into the glass.
When drilling don't use to much pressure and make sure the drill is not going to fast. some times a piece of styrene foam can help with the pressure of drilling (on the underside). Also when youv'e just broke through the back, flip it over and come from the other side.
Another small epic, hope it helps.
Colin & Helen
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri May 16, 2003 7:21 pm
Location: Albany Western Australia

Post by Colin & Helen »

John wrote:paint marker' 0.8mm tip.(sorry,metric)no residue burnt into the glass.' 0.8mm tip.(sorry,metric) Another small epic, hope it helps.
This make the fur fly........but John.........Don't be sorry ....metric is the only way..all those who use the imperial system ....are in the last century.......now what could be easer. use metric in units of 100 ....or ..use ....that blast from the past ... 12 ins = 1 foot..3 feet one yard ........ weight and liquid are no easer with 16 ozs = 1 lb and 4 pts = 1 gallon then the American gallon isn't the same as the English...so.......give me ...metric every time........100% metric in albany
Colin & Helen from the other albany<img src="http://members.westnet.com.au/sheltie/i ... b-logo.jpg">
John

Post by John »

heehee, shall do!
btw i am trying to post some photos, any ideas?
Colin & Helen
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri May 16, 2003 7:21 pm
Location: Albany Western Australia

Post by Colin & Helen »

John wrote:heehee, shall do!
btw i am trying to post some photos, any ideas?
Photos from sunny QLD??? How about a few of your state emblem the giant banana??????????..... or you maybe your pot melt....Col
Colin & Helen from the other albany<img src="http://members.westnet.com.au/sheltie/i ... b-logo.jpg">
Gale aka artistefem
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 8:14 pm
Location: MO-on the banks of the Mississippi
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Post by Gale aka artistefem »

White or Black China markers hold up better under water for drilling. You can get these at hobby and art supply stores.

I have the same back breakout problem when I use my drill press. I luv my drillpress, but the only way I've found so far to stop this breakout is to flip the glass piece over and drill in from the back side. This back side hole doesn't have to be very deep - just deep enough to open up the back surface - 1/16" deep will work.

The trick of course is getting the top and bottom hole aligned. This can be a real pain if you're drilling black or opaque glass. In this case, it's mostly an exercise of good eyeballing :shock: the holes.
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