New to fusing

This is the main board for discussing general techniques, tools, and processes for fusing, slumping, and related kiln-forming activities.

Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith

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cindabr
Posts: 9
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 12:17 am
Location: Indiana

New to fusing

Post by cindabr »

:?: HI...I'm new to the world of fusing. I took 1 class last month. My JenKen kiln should arrive tomorrow according to the UPS tracking numbers that I was given. I'm just thrilled!

My question is....I haven't found any molds to slump in. I'm interested in leaf and flower molds. I was told that I could use ceramic molds? Is there somewhere to purchase these? Ceramic supply store? Do you have to drill vent holes into these ceramic molds? If you do, why?

I did order a 7" slumping mold. It looks to be metal. Do I turn the bowl over and slump on the backside of it (over the mold) or can I slump INTO a metal mold?

Thanks for any help you can give.
Cinda
Amy Schleif-Mohr
Posts: 280
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 5:18 pm
Location: Milwaukee

Post by Amy Schleif-Mohr »

Hi Cinda,

As a general rule of thumb you slump into ceramic and over stainless steel. This rule, however, can be broken... If the mold you ordered is shaped like a wok you should be able to slump into it. The issue with molds is expansion and contraction. Ceramic contracts less than glass and SS contracts more.

There are many places on the internet to buy molds from, I think Brad has some of the places in the links section. If you buy molds from a ceramic supply place you need to drill holes because you can trap air and it will cause a bubble. You should also put the mold up on some kiln furniture just to make sure the air can escape.

Good luck and welcome to the obsession.

Amy
Jerry

new molds

Post by Jerry »

Another tip on the mold issue is to make your own. The problem with buying ceramic shop molds, even if they look like a nice plate mold, is that they typically are too fragile to last long in a glass crafting enviornment. Those babies are meant to be glazed, fired and set on a shelf somewhere, not kiln washed, have holes drilled in them and subjected to the weight and destructiveness of 1500 degree glass, to say nothing of the chemicals glass releases.

If you insist on buying ceramic "Bisqued" plates, find out what the "Bisque" temperature was. You'll be amazed how low they fire those things as opposed to how high you need them fired to. There are a lot of glazes out there that mature aroung 1850, so mose bisquing is just a little higher, or sometimes even lower. They just want to harden the clay and force the moisture out. You need something that's around 2000 degrees bisque and made from durable clay, like stone ware, if you want it to survive. The molds I make I fire to a full cone ten, 2350 and they last for ever.

Having said all that, one story which should tell you all the answers. One of my favorite molds came from, of all places, Pier 1! It's 14", white glazed in a nice platter shape. I drilled vent holes and fired away. The first firing it developed a hairline fracture that is still there and I'm still using it after at least six years; go figure. I'm sure it came from Mexico so God alone knows what temperatures it has seen.

So search out flea markets for stainless steel molds, go to a reputable potter and tell them to make one out of stone ware and fire it to full volcano temps and have a good time.

Hope some of that helps.
Jerry
Walt

Post by Walt »

The ceramic bisqu i fire is fired to a 04 cone the temp is 2008
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