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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 4:33 am
by daffodildeb
I've had good success making holes with either of two methods. The first is a bamboo skewer (like you use for the BBQ), coated with bead release. The wood burns out entirely, leaving only the tunnel of bead release. I use Fusion.
The other method is similar--I buy stainless steel mandrels like bead makers use, and cut them down to 2 or 3 inch lengths. Coat with bead release and put in place.
The really hard part is deciding how the glass will melt, and making sure it won't shift as it does. I sometimes use small pieces of COE compatible, and coordinating glass to hold the rods in critical positions.
Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 4:33 am
by daffodildeb
I've had good success making holes with either of two methods. The first is a bamboo skewer (like you use for the BBQ), coated with bead release. The wood burns out entirely, leaving only the tunnel of bead release. I use Fusion.
The other method is similar--I buy stainless steel mandrels like bead makers use, and cut them down to 2 or 3 inch lengths. Coat with bead release and put in place.
The really hard part is deciding how the glass will melt, and making sure it won't shift as it does. I sometimes use small pieces of COE compatible, and coordinating glass to hold the rods in critical positions.
re channels in pendents
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 9:09 am
by vidrio
Hi thanks for your advice. Also thanks for the new set of glass vocab.
A couple of questions.
Re drilling:
What kind of drill and bit could I use for such tiny holes?
Would I have to fire polish the pieces after the drilling? With or without the jumpring?
Gluing
What is PMC backing?
Channels
When you say overlapping, do you mean that the top layer should be slightly bigger than the bottom. ie 1" on bottom and 1 1/2 on top?
Again thanks
Vidrio
Dolores wrote:Just some possibilities for hanging pendants:
-drill a small hole for a jumpring.
-drill small holes on opposite corners and attach jumprings and chain.
-glue on a pendant bail (lots of sources to be found in the archives!).
-grind a channel all around the glass and wire wrap.
-glue on a PMC backing or cut a custom shape out of sheet metal.
In regards to the pendant channels, be sure to overlap the top layer over the fiber paper enough to allow the glass to sag over (if not, it will retreat back instead). One good trick is to close the opening with a ceramic rod once the glass has softened. I got tired of wasting firings on channels that didn't want to close properly, so I donned a kiln glove and pushed the offending glass down with the ceramic firing rod (Voile! Nice closed channels every time!
). Yes, the kiln is at 1400 degrees at this point, but small jewelry pieces are not affected.
DOLORES
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 9:19 am
by vidrio
HI
I'm having a hard time imagining how you use skewers. Would I, for example, take two layers of glass and sandwich the skewer of bamboo or mandrel in between? Would the tip of the sandwiched part of the skewer
be position roughly around the place I want a hole? And the rest hanging out of the glass on the shelf? How does the glass wrap itself around the steel?
What I really want is to make pendents for necklaces, etc. with wee holes
in the top without having to drill. Is this possible?
Thanks for your help.
Vidrio
daffodildeb wrote:I've had good success making holes with either of two methods. The first is a bamboo skewer (like you use for the BBQ), coated with bead release. The wood burns out entirely, leaving only the tunnel of bead release. I use Fusion.
The other method is similar--I buy stainless steel mandrels like bead makers use, and cut them down to 2 or 3 inch lengths. Coat with bead release and put in place.
The really hard part is deciding how the glass will melt, and making sure it won't shift as it does. I sometimes use small pieces of COE compatible, and coordinating glass to hold the rods in critical positions.
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 12:57 pm
by Tom White
Vidro, first I need to know if you want the hole to be parallel to the surfaces of the glass you look at or perpendicular to the surface, ie a hole from the front of the item to the back. All the techniques using mandrels of any type with bead release between the layers of the glass produce a hole parallel to the layers of glass. The only way I know to make a hole from the front to the back of the item is to drill the hole with a diamond drill after you are through firing it.
Best wishes,
Tom in Texas
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 2:25 pm
by Tim Swann
Use a small diamond cared drill bit. Make sure that you use a lubricant (ie water) when you drill or you will burn up the diamonds. I use a flexible shaft and drill with the piece under water. You do not have to fire polish after you drill the hole, but it looks nicer if you do.
Tim
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 2:44 pm
by Tim Swann
Vidrio,
I use an entirely different method when making a pendant. I developed my method as an option to gluing and I did not like the look of the pendant hole passing the full width of the piece. Send me an e-mail off line and I will send you images of what I do.
Tim
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 5:10 pm
by Dolores
Vidrio,
If you're interested in the front to back holes. Pacific art glass in LA (1-800-35 Glass) has the very fine drill bits you seek. Also Diamond Drill and Tool (1-800-646-2832). Just be careful to stock up on the smallest ones, though, I broke two last week trying to hurry up the job. Haste does make waste when it comes to glass!
DOLORES (trying to see through all the smoke and ash here in Southern California)
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 5:13 pm
by daffodildeb
Vidrio, I was assuming you wanted to make a channel parallel to the base of the glass. Perhaps this is not so. If it is, you described the process exactly. The important parts are to position the skewer/mandrel so that it won't roll as the glass melts (that's why I sometimes use extra pieces as described), and to have enough bead release on either side of the glass so it will not stick to the mandrel. 1/2" overlap is fine, and allows for a little spread as the glass melts.
You can use smaller mandrels if you don't want such a large hole. Beadmakers use 1/16" stainless steel, and this would work well, provided this is covered with bead release.
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 11:11 pm
by Cher
[quote="Dolores"]Vidrio,
...... I broke two last week trying to hurry up the job. Haste does make waste when it comes to glass!
not only haste, to state the obvious: last week I broke 6 pieces trying to drill. later noticed drill was on reverse. Just those little things when you're working on a no-brainer, mind elsewhere. That must be where the 'Duh' part of me comes in...
Yo