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I checked around in the archives and I'm sure it's there somewhere but i can't find it.

For a pattern bar 3" W x 1" T x 24" L, framed by 1/8" angle iron. I'm planning to hold at annealing temp for 90 minutes then ramping down at 100 DPH to 700F then 200DPH to 120F.

Is this overkill? Underkill? Is underkill a word?

Any ideas?

Thank you,

Jack

Jack Bowman wrote:I checked around in the archives and I'm sure it's there somewhere but i can't find it.

For a pattern bar 3" W x 1" T x 24" L, framed by 1/8" angle iron. I'm planning to hold at annealing temp for 90 minutes then ramping down at 100 DPH to 700F then 200DPH to 120F.

Is this overkill? Underkill? Is underkill a word?

Any ideas?

Thank you,

Jack

I think it may be underkill. Anneal one hour for each 1/4" of thickness.
IHowever, I under-anneal mine, cut 'em the next day, no major problems.

Brock

Thank you, Brock. In the past I'm sure mine were under annealed knowing that I would slice and refire. I just wondered if annealing could cause the chipping I sometimes get at the end of the cut while sawing. I guess that's the question I should have asked. I use a very thin Raytech Yellow Blazer.

Jack

Jack Bowman wrote:Thank you, Brock. In the past I'm sure mine were under annealed knowing that I would slice and refire. I just wondered if annealing could cause the chipping I sometimes get at the end of the cut while sawing. I guess that's the question I should have asked. I use a very thin Raytech Yellow Blazer.

Jack

I'm not sure about that one. Certainly underannealed glass is more likely to break, but I think the chipping is just torque from the blade. Go very slowly for the last 3/4" as the blade appears. I've definitely found that it's not a great idea to have opal white on the outside of the bar closest to you as you cut. Major chippage! Brock