Wet Belt Sander...CRL GL4W

[Jim Wixon]

It is time for me to get serious about getting a large wbs. CRLaurence has the models discussed in the previous threads...the GL4W model (4"x106") at CRL has not been mentioned and looks interesting. I have only used much smaller Covingtons and need some advice.
1. is a built-in roller platen a plus or minus for work from 10"to 24"? (hopefully larger later)
2. The GL4W has an "Easy Belt Changing System"..."can be changed in a matter of seconds" How big a deal is it for a normal klutz to change a belt on the 2200 model. I tend to follow a piece through from rough to polish...so would be changing belts fairly often.
3.It looks as though the motor and spray system is different from the 2200...better or worse or just different?
The cost of the GL4W is more than the 2200 but the one time outlay is ok if it makes the work more pleasurable. Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks...jim

http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/ ... ml?Origin=

[Lisa Allen]

It is time for me to get serious about getting a large wbs. CRLaurence has the models discussed in the previous threads...the GL4W model (4"x106") at CRL has not been mentioned and looks interesting. I have only used much smaller Covingtons and need some advice.
1. is a built-in roller platen a plus or minus for work from 10"to 24"? (hopefully larger later)
2. The GL4W has an "Easy Belt Changing System"..."can be changed in a matter of seconds" How big a deal is it for a normal klutz to change a belt on the 2200 model. I tend to follow a piece through from rough to polish...so would be changing belts fairly often.
3.It looks as though the motor and spray system is different from the 2200...better or worse or just different?
The cost of the GL4W is more than the 2200 but the one time outlay is ok if it makes the work more pleasurable. Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks...jim

http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/ ... ml?Origin=

Jim, I ave the 2200 and really like it. Belt changes are very quick and easy. I can't imagine there is much difference between the two machines. But the thing I really like about the 2200 is that the tank is fiberglas and won't rust like the GL4W. It is a great machine and being $200 less is a definite perk too.

Lisa

[Jim Wixon]

Lisa...Thanks. I had not noticed the lack of a fiberglass tank.That alone tips the scale to the 2200. The old Covington is completely rusted out.
What grit belts do you find the most useful for a rough/med/fine and polish?
thanks again...jim

[Ron Coleman]

Jim

The GL4W sander is the one made by Bee Metals of Canada, this is "the sander". If you have ever used one there is a big difference between it and the 2200.

I have an older model of the 2200 and there isn't any comparison between the two in my book.

One thing the GL4W has is a built in tension release lever that releases belt tension. On the 2200 you have to turn the spring tension knob a bunch of turns or block the tension mechanism with a stick to unload the belt. Releasing belt tension is recommended each time you stop the sander for extended periods of time.

The roller platten really reduces friction and belt wear too.

Ron

Save some money, see this link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... gory=42285

[Lisa Allen]

Jim

The GL4W sander is the one made by Bee Metals of Canada, this is "the sander". If you have ever used one there is a big difference between it and the 2200.

Ron, I have used both and really don't notice a big difference?

On the 2200 you have to turn the spring tension knob a bunch of turns or block the tension mechanism with a stick to unload the belt.

On mine the tension mechanism is spring loaded and pulls down quite easliy to remove the belts.

The roller platten really reduces friction and belt wear too.

Both machines come with roller plattens.

I feel like I am sounding like a sales person for the 2200! I don't mean to, I just feel like there aren't big enough differences to warrent buying the more expensive one. Plus the fiberglas tank is a better design quality in my opinion.

Jim, I use the 80 grit for coarse grinding, then go up from there. I mainly use it for cleaning and straightening up edges before sandblasting and stay with the coarser grits for that. But I am sure that there are plenty of folks who finish pieces with it and maybe they can give you a better idea of the best belts for that process.

Lisa

[Ron Coleman]

I know the fiberglass tank has the advantage of no rust and that is a selling point, but the steel tank of the GL4W will last several lifetimes.

Another big advantage of the the GL4W is, it's belt drive not direct drive like the 2200. This may not seem like an advantage, but if you ever have to replace the motor on it you can get one just about anywhere for about $150. The motor for the 2200 has a special 6 inch long shaft which is only available from CRL for $395 plus shipping.

Ron

Just curious if you remove the belts when you are done using the sander?

[Brock]

I think there are three basic types of belts . . .

Roughing - 40 - 60 - 80 - 100

Shaping - 150 - 220 - 320

Finishing - 400 - 500 - 600 - 1200 - Cork

Any other odd numbered belts can be slotted in where they belong.

Basically, you need one from column A and one from column B and one . .

I normally use 80, 220, 400, Cork. This is for the edge of platters and trays and is not a perfect polish. Belts below 80 are VERY aggressive.
Belts above 500 are pointless, it would be much quicker to go to Pumice/Cerium. The rubber wheels on the WBS are very handy. Brock

[Tony Smith]

For the unitiated, here are the three most popular wet belt sanders in use today. On the left is the CR Laurence 2200RP (a machine that looked pretty much the same 20+ years ago), in the middle is the CR Laurence GL-4W which looks similar to the Somaca on the right (with Doug Randall at the controls). The 2200 RP indeed has a quick change belt, and you can see the lever in the upper left... pull it down with your left hand and remove the belt with your right. I always remove my belts when I'm done because I may not use the WBS for 2 or 3 days, and I don't want to damage the belts or the wheels.

I agree with Brock, that there isn't a lot of advantage to go above 400 grit unless you really need a shower.

Tony

[Lisa Allen]

Just curious if you remove the belts when you are done using the sander?

Yeah, when I am done with the machine I always remove the belt.

[Marty]

Why remove the belt? You just have to release the tension when it's not in use.

The 2 lever system on the 2200 seems overly complicated to me- I like the single tensioning lever on my GL-4W (BEE).

[Ron Coleman]

That's the problem with the 2200. there is no way to release the tension and keep it off the belt. I ended up making a little wood block for mine to take the tension off the belt without removing it each time.




The GL4W has that nice lever that rotates 180 degrees and locks out the tension spring.

Ron

[Tony Smith]

No wonder I didn't know what you were talking about! I never used the GL4W or the Somaca, so I didn't know it would completely remove the tension. That's kewl.

BTW, They changed the design on the new 2200RP. They eliminated the tension knob... not that it got adjusted that much. It's easy enough to take the belt off.

When I bought my 2200, they didn't have any of the GL4W's in stock... at the time, they were both $1500. I took the one in stock 'cuz nobody I knew had ever seen a GL before, never mind use one. My 2200 is almost identical to the Super Bee at the glass shop where I do some contract blasting, and it has to be 30 years old.

Tony