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Several threads talk about cutting rims off drop-outs. What tool/saw do you use? I presume it's a wire or band saw (heavy-duty enough to cut 1/2" or 3/4" glass if you're making a sink). But doesn't it still leave a very slight lip which will need aggressive cold-working?

Is it possible to cut the top of the bowl itself -- thereby taking off the top few centimeters of the bowl along with the rim and only having to cold-work the top edge? I can't image how this would be done except by water jet (if even that).

[As you can tell I haven't used a band saw yet -- just a tile saw.]

I'm asking because my next big tool purchase will be a wire or band saw and I'm trying to decide what to buy. I've been wanting to make a sink for my bathroom and especially like the kind without rims. Among the other uses I see are cutting circles & curves in thick (1/2") glass.

Thanks much for your advice.

Jackie,

I'm sure there is a better way, especially if you have need for a heavy-duty band saw anyway, but I've used the tile saw to cut off rims of drop outs with no problem. I'd hate to see you get an expensive band saw just for that. The cut isn't exactly pretty when you're done, but a couple minutes on the WBS takes those little points left by the tile saw right off. If you don't have a WBS, I'd suggest one of those before a heavy duty band saw. You'll use it much more often, in my opinion.

Happy New Year-
Jackie

Jackie,

I'd love to use the Tile saw. How do you position the bowl? Rim down? and then just make lots of straight cuts?

I have the Covington 41" WBS so that's not a problem.

Thanks for the advice and the New Year's greeeting -- I'm looking forward to lots of glasswork in 2004. Yea!

Jackie,
I just place the bowl upsidedown on the table and make lots of straight cuts, over and over until the rim is gone. As I said, there are a few little points that are easy to get off on the WBS afterwards, but cutting the rim off is pretty easy with the tile saw once you try. I've gotten adventurous with my tile saw this past year and sometimes almost use it as a grinder. I cast a little "cube" of glass to use on one of my Menorahs as a lift for one of the candle holders, then decided to make it cylinder shaped instead. Took off the corners on the tile saw, then finished it up on the WBS. Opens up some interesting possibilities. Also, I've cast square slabs of glass (with dams in the kiln) that I've then decided should be circles for bowls so just cut them using the tile saw. Be careful of your fingers.

Jackie

Jackie -

It's supposed to be warm this weekend (into the high 50's) -- I think I'll lug out the tile saw and start experimenting.

You're great inspiration to be resourceful. Thanks!

[quote="Jackie Beckman"]Jackie,
Be careful of your fingers.

Where you really need to be careful is when you go from cutting on a tile a saw regularily then go to regular wood working tools, like a radial arm saw. I use my fingers as a guide when cutting on my tile saw. It amazes me that the blade will but 1" solid granite like a hot knife through butter but I can place my fingers directly on the blade as it turns. Then I had to make some small cuts on my radial arm saw of some wood. My fingers got a little too close a couple of times. Luckily I caught myself before any real trouble.

I suggest a glass cutter. It is a tool well suited to cutting glass. A drop is nice and smooth. Draw a line. Use kerosene. Tap carefully. Fast and effective.

Bert -

Duh. I guess I didn't think of a glass cutter since I've not been successful in the past cutting thick fused glass with a cutter. To show my lack of experience -- you tap on the side not scored? When you run the score by tapping will the weight make the rim drop off? When you showed how to cut thick glass at WGW in Washington, didn't you use a running pliers in addition to the torch?

Thanks,

Jackie in Washington DC wrote:Bert -

Duh. I guess I didn't think of a glass cutter since I've not been successful in the past cutting thick fused glass with a cutter. To show my lack of experience -- you tap on the side not scored? When you run the score by tapping will the weight make the rim drop off? When you showed how to cut thick glass at WGW in Washington, didn't you use a running pliers in addition to the torch?

Thanks,

Jackie

I have successfully cut thick clear float glass that has been dropped. I have seen Ray Alghren successfully cut 1/4" BE that has been dropped or slumped in a mold.

I tap first until the run has been started 360º around. Tap exactly opposite the score. The torch can be used to finish. Running pliers used on flat glass will start and finish a break all by themselves.

Just when the glass will seperate is kind of a mystery. Be careful that you are there to support it when it decides to seperate.

If I were to use a saw to seperate the glass, I would try and use my 4" Makita diamond wet saw. It might not exactly fit though.

Bert - Thanks. I'll give it a try.