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Just playing with some more techniques.

BE French vanilla with silver foil accents, brass inserts and ebony handle.

Fused freestanding in the kiln, no sand with this one.

Nice gloss finish too.

Ron

Just playing, huh?

When are you going to get serious? hahaha

This is another magnificent piece. Each one is better than the last. Thanks for posting the pictures.

Your work is truly an inspiration except I can never seem to catch up.

Thanks...............................Jim (The Hobbyist)

You should see this one up close! It's just wonderful!

What a surprise to find out it was fused free standing, amazing!

Amy

Fabulous piece Ron. So, when are you going to start teaching?

Avery

Amazing--you SHOULD be teaching!
Amy

Fantastic Ron - Just beautiful!

Ron

You make a great case for temp control. You could never do that by eye and get it consistently right.

Nice work!

Absolutely beautiful creation from a very clever mind.


Cheers,

Bob

Wow! What a great piece. I always look forward to seeing your work. Another great artwork well done.

Thanks for the comments everyone. I'm just starting to explore this technique but will try some more pieces for sure.

You're right Bert, a little too much time and heat and it wilts like a flower without water.

As for teaching, one of these days maybe after I retire. Only 49 months and 6 days, but who's counting.

Ron

Ron Coleman wrote:Just playing with some more techniques.

BE French vanilla with silver foil accents, brass inserts and ebony handle.

Fused freestanding in the kiln, no sand with this one.

Nice gloss finish too.

Ron

Facinating Ron.

I'm guess evenitity above stress point and than quick heat up and down to soften the glass surface before the core starts to melt -- eh? Are you crash cooling?

How thick are the pieces? Seems this would go a tad easier (not to be confused with easy) with thicker glass.

Is there a waiting list for your class? I just checked and I'm free in 49 months and 6 days

- Paul

Thanks Paul

This piece actually takes advantage of the "U" shaped end pieces for support and the fused joints are made with a low fire frit. I've been experimenting with Ferro Frit #3419 which starts melting about 1000 f. This piece was fused as an assembly at 1180 f, the firing was 25 min from 1000 f to 1180 f and hold about 5 minutes. Because of the unusual shape, I spent a long time annealing and cooling to room temp.

All the parts of the box are just 2 layers of BE fused at about 1450 f and then slumped to shape in a second firing, The seams where the sides join the bottom are cold worked to get a nice true surface and get rid of the rounded edge for more contact.

One note about the Ferro Frit #3419, it contains over 60% lead oxide so use caution if you try it.

Ron

Ron Coleman wrote:...the fused joints are made with a low fire frit...

wow -- talk about "hot glue"

thanks for sharing Ron

- Paul

Ron Coleman wrote:Just playing with some more techniques.

BE French vanilla with silver foil accents, brass inserts and ebony handle.

Fused freestanding in the kiln, no sand with this one.

Nice gloss finish too.

Ron

This is such a wonderful form. I love the shape, the arcs, the choice in handle, the composition...It's a terrific piece Ron.

Can you, or anyone lead me to the link for the old tutorial that you (Ron) posted a few years ago on how to make these 3-D forms hold up with sand? I am drawing up plans for some box shapes or vessels that would require sand... I envision using the same process used by Mary White for her houses, or your (Ron's) boxes in form, but not ever having done it, I need a little more info to get started.

I've got some sand info from Boyce Lundstrom's book, but for the life of me, I can't locate the tutorial you (Ron) posted on the old forum.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cynthia wrote:
This is such a wonderful form. I love the shape, the arcs, the choice in handle, the composition...It's a terrific piece Ron.

Can you, or anyone lead me to the link for the old tutorial that you (Ron) posted a few years ago on how to make these 3-D forms hold up with sand? I am drawing up plans for some box shapes or vessels that would require sand... I envision using the same process used by Mary White for her houses, or your (Ron's) boxes in form, but not ever having done it, I need a little more info to get started.

I've got some sand info from Boyce Lundstrom's book, but for the life of me, I can't locate the tutorial you (Ron) posted on the old forum.

Any help would be appreciated.

The old links

http://www.warmglass.com/cgi-bin/wgarch ... ?read=9565

http://mrcol.freeyellow.com/glass-box/box.html

http://mrcol.freeyellow.com/sand/new-sand.html

http://www.warmglass.com/cgi-bin/wgarch ... read=15292

Another box done with the sand technique
http://mrcol.freeyellow.com/new-additions/default.html

That should get you started.

Ron

Yes indeed it does. Thanks for the jump start!!!!

WOW!! This Box is absolutey Beautiful!!!

Sign me up for a class if you decide to have one.

Robin Z

Ron..........it's gorgeous!

Great lesson on how to make a work of art from the silver and French vanilla reaction.

Will you share recipes - what did you use to patina/etch?? the brass?

Thanks, Gale

even without knowing anything about the "how it was done" part, looking at this one is great. i like the surface treatments, both on the cream and the greenish/marble part in the midsection. i love free-form, painterly stuff ... the less defined, the better. nice contrast slapping that precise, arcing asian ebony handle on the top, in counterpoint to the gestures on the cream sidewalls. along with everyone else, my compliments, of course. wish i could see it up close and personal ... and run a finger over its very delectable curves and glossy finish. sexy piece, monsieur ron. nice 'n sexy. miss kitty.

Gale aka artistefem wrote:Ron..........it's gorgeous!

Great lesson on how to make a work of art from the silver and French vanilla reaction.

Will you share recipes - what did you use to patina/etch?? the brass?

Thanks, Gale

Thanks Gale

The brass patina is straight from the bottle. I use Jax patinas for stained glass.

For these pieces I used the Jax copper green and the pewter. They are very fast acting on the brass if it's clean.

I sponge on a little and let it dry and add some more. The green color takes a while to develop but the black is instantaneous. When I get the color I'm after, I gently rinse and dry the parts and spray with Testors Dullcote for a satin finish. Dullcote is the flattest finish clear coat spray available.

http://stainedglass.safeshopper.com/22/124.htm?980
http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1382


Ron