One of the problems glass casters have is developing an original model to cast. When we make the choice to fabricate that model in wax, there's good news and bad. (Cut to the chase) I've recently found a formula for making wax as easy to work with as clay and wondered, first, if any of you may have tired this, and second, if not, how do you you sculpt your wax?
The formula:
1 Part Victory brown wax
1 Part powdered clay
1/10th part vaseline.
Yeah, It sounds messy but the guy I got it from swears it works. Any thoughts?
Jerry
Wax Sculpting
Moderator: Brad Walker
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ellen abbott
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 12:04 pm
- Location: Houston Tx
- Contact:
Sounds interesting. I wonder about the clay though. With some of my models I make a 'rubber' mold for reproductions. Can't use the stuff I use on clay. Working with wax has been a frustrating learning process, but now that I have experience with it, working with clay gives me trouble. One of the things I like about wax is that I can work on a model and put it away and then come back to later without it drying out.
As for technique, I build up or carve down depending on the piece. For instance, a large leaf that I made for the base of a vase, I drew the shape of the leaf on paper, rolled out clay 3/4" think, cut the shape out of clay and pulled out the clay leaf, poured wax into the void, and the carved out the leaf from the blank. Other times, like the small sculptures I do, I fashion my leaves and flowers from sheets of wax that I also make, shape them and arrange them, then fill in and bulk up with more wax. After that I refine and clean it up. I use naphtha for smoothing.
E
As for technique, I build up or carve down depending on the piece. For instance, a large leaf that I made for the base of a vase, I drew the shape of the leaf on paper, rolled out clay 3/4" think, cut the shape out of clay and pulled out the clay leaf, poured wax into the void, and the carved out the leaf from the blank. Other times, like the small sculptures I do, I fashion my leaves and flowers from sheets of wax that I also make, shape them and arrange them, then fill in and bulk up with more wax. After that I refine and clean it up. I use naphtha for smoothing.
E
Jerry,
What you really have here is a simple formula for plasticene or oil based clay. With a 1 to 1 ratio of wax to clay it probably would steam out Ok. However, I have not done it. I have used the following formula which makes about 80 lbs. of oil based clay. Of course you can always buy it.
Kaolin clay - 30 lbs
Ball clay - 20 lbs
Victory brown was - 20 lbs
Motor oil - 5 quqrts
Grease, lithium grease, or vasoline - 2 lbs
The clay is good to work and it is improved by keeping it warm under some lamps or in a drying box. My prefered method is to microwave it and then wedge it up, but watch out the inside will be hot and even liquid if nuked too long.
For bronze and glass casting I make the original out of oil based clay, then make a rubber mold with a plaster back up mold, and pour wax into that. Then you can rework the wax to any level of detail you want. Aditionally you have a stable mold to reuse. I use Polytek 74-30 rubber mold material which is great stuff but pricey. A much cheaper alternative is 100% clear silicon caulk from the harware store (make sure to get 100% CLEAR SILICON ). Silicon is very sticky so to make it workable all you have to do is squeeze the tube into a pail of water with a lot of dish detergent in it. You can then pick up globs of it and apply it to your pattern with a putty knife, brush, or similar tool. Apply the silicon to about 3/16" -1/4" thick, then back it up with plaster. Depending on the pattern the silicon mold should be removed much like you pull off a sock. You can use silicon over almost any material but remember it is an adhesive and will stick to almost everything except oil based clay. Fot other material use a mold release like vasoline diluted with mineral spirits or WD 40. The rubber mold companies also offer mold releases.
I have been asking questions on this site for months, it's nice to give a little back.
Ted
What you really have here is a simple formula for plasticene or oil based clay. With a 1 to 1 ratio of wax to clay it probably would steam out Ok. However, I have not done it. I have used the following formula which makes about 80 lbs. of oil based clay. Of course you can always buy it.
Kaolin clay - 30 lbs
Ball clay - 20 lbs
Victory brown was - 20 lbs
Motor oil - 5 quqrts
Grease, lithium grease, or vasoline - 2 lbs
The clay is good to work and it is improved by keeping it warm under some lamps or in a drying box. My prefered method is to microwave it and then wedge it up, but watch out the inside will be hot and even liquid if nuked too long.
For bronze and glass casting I make the original out of oil based clay, then make a rubber mold with a plaster back up mold, and pour wax into that. Then you can rework the wax to any level of detail you want. Aditionally you have a stable mold to reuse. I use Polytek 74-30 rubber mold material which is great stuff but pricey. A much cheaper alternative is 100% clear silicon caulk from the harware store (make sure to get 100% CLEAR SILICON ). Silicon is very sticky so to make it workable all you have to do is squeeze the tube into a pail of water with a lot of dish detergent in it. You can then pick up globs of it and apply it to your pattern with a putty knife, brush, or similar tool. Apply the silicon to about 3/16" -1/4" thick, then back it up with plaster. Depending on the pattern the silicon mold should be removed much like you pull off a sock. You can use silicon over almost any material but remember it is an adhesive and will stick to almost everything except oil based clay. Fot other material use a mold release like vasoline diluted with mineral spirits or WD 40. The rubber mold companies also offer mold releases.
I have been asking questions on this site for months, it's nice to give a little back.
Ted
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jerry flanary
- Posts: 158
- Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2003 11:11 pm
- Location: norfolk, va
I'm w/ Ted on this. My moldmaking experience all comes from the bronze foundry environment. I do most of my sculpting in oilbased clay. I use Roma or Chavant. I have never made my own but maybe when I get a muller...
Anyway, I sculpt in clay. Make a mold. make a wax. clean up wax. do anything "extra" (special texture, feature, ect.) then make a casting mold. I put the finished mold on aluminum stilts in a big covered pot and steam out the mold that way. Re-use the wax.
During the working of the wax, I use metal tools and a little candle to heat the tool as I work, if the wax is not warm enough to just work as is. also areas can be warmed with a hairdryer or a pro heat gun- just pay attention, right? Also the surface of the wax can be "burnished" smooth with lighter fluid- experiment it'll become obvious.
As for the usefulness of this recipe, I would only mix a small test batch and make a small piece. See how it works. Let us know how it goes!
Anyway, I sculpt in clay. Make a mold. make a wax. clean up wax. do anything "extra" (special texture, feature, ect.) then make a casting mold. I put the finished mold on aluminum stilts in a big covered pot and steam out the mold that way. Re-use the wax.
During the working of the wax, I use metal tools and a little candle to heat the tool as I work, if the wax is not warm enough to just work as is. also areas can be warmed with a hairdryer or a pro heat gun- just pay attention, right? Also the surface of the wax can be "burnished" smooth with lighter fluid- experiment it'll become obvious.
As for the usefulness of this recipe, I would only mix a small test batch and make a small piece. See how it works. Let us know how it goes!
j.
A lack of doubt doesn't lend certainty.
A lack of doubt doesn't lend certainty.