Putty:for the leaded glass crossover crowd?

Joseph Tracy · Post by **Joseph Tracy** » Sat Jan 31, 2004 4:45 pm

Does anyone know something about dap 1012 as a putty for leaded glass.
Better yet does anyone know of an article comparing different waterproofing cements/putties? I know this is sorta OT but this is the most knowlegeable crowd I know for such topics.

Brock · Post by **Brock** » Sat Jan 31, 2004 4:53 pm

It's got a pretty scary MSDS. And, it's aluminum coloured. Brock

http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail ... odhdrid=68

SAReed · Post by **SAReed** » Sat Jan 31, 2004 5:40 pm

I use DAP 1012 for my windows. I mix it with turpentine until it's the consistancy of a thick shake, add some black PacMix Color for Concrete. I use a brush to swirl it around the window to make sure it gets under the lead. Works really well. I've never had a window leak.

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Sat Jan 31, 2004 5:51 pm

there's a stained glass mailing list that i know of. you can get on it with an email to glass-request@bungi.com

dap 1012 is basically calcium carbonate (whiting) with some oils and a form of powdered aluminium. you can make your own pretty easily and cheaply with whiting, carbon black (or black paint or concrete tints), and boiled linseed oil. the advantage to this is that you only need to mix what you need. keep the powdered ingrediants in a can and it won't dry out like a can of dap will.

Becky Bergsma · Post by **Becky Bergsma** » Sun Feb 01, 2004 12:23 am

I have used the DAP for many years, when I get a new can I take it all out and mix it up like bread dough to mix the oil that tends to come up to the top, then I put all back in the can and after I use it I put water over the top, that keeps it from getting dried out. I brush it on with a plastic bristle brush, the sprinkle with whiting and brush that good with a different plastic brush, let it set overnight and clean the excess putty with a sharpened chopstick then brush to polish with a tampico brush, clean corners with a sharpened chopstick with a rag over it.

I used to mix my own using plaster of paris,portland cement, linseed oil and turpentine, now that was some nasty stuff

Becky

Dennis Brady · Post by **Dennis Brady** » Sun Feb 01, 2004 12:44 am

The best possible putty for leaded glass is whiting (calcium carbonate) mixed with 50/50 natural and boiled linseed oil. Mix to the consistency of thick peanut butter.

NEVER......repeat NEVER...use ANY material that contains either cement or plaster. Both these ingredients absorb water and will produce mildew.

SAReed · Post by **SAReed** » Sun Feb 01, 2004 1:02 am

Dennis Brady wrote: NEVER......repeat NEVER...use ANY material that contains either cement or plaster. Both these ingredients absorb water and will produce mildew.

Not sure if this is directed at me, but I want to clarify that PacMix Color is NOT concrete. It's a fine powder that's used to color concrete.

Dennis Brady · Post by **Dennis Brady** » Sun Feb 01, 2004 2:22 pm

Not directed at any PERSON specifically, but at PRODUCTS specifically. There are several different compounds marketed to be used to putty leaded windows that DO contain these ingredients. They should NOT be used. It's wise to read the ingredient labels. It's wisest to make your own putty and have a product that you KNOW will work well. Just don't use your wife's cuisinart to mix it. Trust me on that.

You can use any of many different materials to colour putty (as long as they don't contain plaster or cement). Lamp black (available at most art supply shops) or concrete/mortar dye (available at ceramic tile suppliers) are the most common. There are also several excellent industrial dyes that work exceptionally well, but usually aren't available in other than industrial quanitities.

Joseph Tracy · Post by **Joseph Tracy** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 9:58 am

Thanks everyone. I usually mix my own linseed, whiting putty or use a product with a plasticizer called Sterling, but this is work through another studio who is supplying materials. It's good to know as much as possible about the materials one is working with.