WarmGlass.com

I need to buy a kiln fast and need some advice on one that can fire for ceramics (cone 10) and has a top element that you can switch on & off for glass work. I hear Olympic will ad a top element for extra $ but I can't find anyone that has actually ordered one that way. I need one big enough to do 17 x 17 x 8 or so with an electronic controller. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Queenbee (Ginny)

Ginny:
Take a look a the sponosors list at the top of the page. I am sure you can find what you are looking for there.
Kim

Is there a special reason you want top-firing for glass? I have two ceramics kilns I use almost exclusively for glass that are side-firing.

Yes, I think it should be renamed the Stupid Bowl especially after they refused to air the Child's Pay ad during half-time.

I've been told that when I fuse larger pieces, the elements on the side won't spread heat evenly enough to the center of the piece to prevent cracking. The idea is that the top elements are an equal distance to all areas of the flat piece. I hear fusing small pieces with side elements doesn't matter. Ginny

I got my kiln from Pottery Supply House in Ontario. This company is associated with Euclid Kilns, in the US. I'm very happy with the kiln, which I've had for 1.5 years.

It fires to cone 10, has a Bartlett controller, measures 17" w by 13" deep. Many kiln manufacturers semi-custom build their kilns, because the parts are standardized and can be configured in different sizes, with more or fewer elements added to achieve higher temperatures, and with various options like digital controllers, or kiln sitters.

I'd suggest you decide on a list of criteria, e.g. must fire to cone 10, must have top element, digital controller, etc., and then email for quotes from various manufacturers, and see how the cost, including shipping, compares. If a manufacturer says they can't give provide an item on your criteria list, drop them. They're too inflexible, and there are many kiln manufacturers out there.

Another suggestion: ask the manufacturer to install a switch allowing you to turn off the top element for ceramic firing. PSH charged me an extra $50.00 for this, and even added nice labels for "Pottery" and "Glass".

You might also consider installing an automatic vent for the ceramics. It's pricey though, about approximately $400 Cdn.


Cheers and Happy Kiln Hunting,
Suzan

Queenbee wrote:I've been told that when I fuse larger pieces, the elements on the side won't spread heat evenly enough to the center of the piece to prevent cracking. The idea is that the top elements are an equal distance to all areas of the flat piece. I hear fusing small pieces with side elements doesn't matter. Ginny

What do you mean by larger pieces? Most of the bowls I fuse are between 14 and 18 inches and I have no problems in that size range, usually two layers of glass with one or two more layers of design elements. Most of my work is also painted with Reusches. That said, there are techniques that are better suited for a top-firing kiln, but I don't think straighforward fusing absolutely requires one. I like being able to stack several layers of shelves.

Suzan, thank you for the help. I'll take your advice & get quotes based on my specs. By the way, do you find that using it for glass and ceramics works out for you? Any drawbacks? Thanks again, Ginny

i use a ceramic kiln and multi shelves as well. no top element. i fire as close to the edge of my shelf as i can as big as will fit. 2 layers of 1/4" with interior voids (vases) usually. some of which are later slumped . it is all a matter of heating rates. you can make it work. i like being able to hi fire clay as well when the mood strikes. rosanna

Queenbee wrote:Suzan, thank you for the help. I'll take your advice & get quotes based on my specs. By the way, do you find that using it for glass and ceramics works out for you? Any drawbacks? Thanks again, Ginny

I've had no problems whatsoever using my kiln for both glass & ceramics, roughly 60-40 glass to pottery. The switch for turning off the lid element has been particularly useful, since I've discovered that shutting the top element off for slumping drop rings finally led to success, after several failures with the top element on. The vent I got only because I knew it was necessary for bisque and glaze firing, but it's also extremely useful for firing out the binders in fibre board, or when using wax paper as a base for gluing ornaments in place (just to keep them from moving).

Mainly, this kind of configuration has given me a lot of flexibility.

Another thing to consider: it's very important that kiln shelves used for fusing glass flat be absolutely flat and level. If not, the glass will likely crack. However, for bisque & glaze firing, a small amount of warp won't matter. So, if you come across used shelves for a good price, do get a few for pottery, but be sure to check that the ones you use for glass are perfectly flat. Also, the kiln wash used for ceramics is not suitable for glass, but it's much cheaper, so get some of each type, and keep your glass & ceramic shelves separate.

Cheers,
Suzan

Thanks for the help! Ginny (Queenbee)