Kiln Questions

[lbailey]

Well, we have stepped off the edge now. Initial order of glass, tools and supplies on the way, Olympic Square146GFE waiting in the garage, the journey begins.

Searched for info on this but no complete answer that I could find. This kiln is 120V so it can run the top elements or the side elements, but not both. I believe that most fusing and slumping will be top element but wondered when running the sides only would be recommended? We plan to eventually experiment with it all, (on a small scale):

- Lots and lots of test tiles as I have tons of glass from SG days that I'd like to use (in some way)
- Dichroic cabs, etc
- Strip/edge construction
- Pot and screen melt (as much as the 6" depth will allow)
- Pattern bars
- Slumping of course
- Draping (short molds)
- Combing

It seems that the schedules for multiple smaller items like cabs and test tiles can be shorter and less complex than the larger projects?

I also see conflicting advice on flash venting. Is it really advisable and if so, when? I understand that expermenting/testing is required here but suspect there are some occasions when it is reasonable to attempt it and others when you should not.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the patience......

[bob proulx]

I have two Olympic kilns, the first I bought is what you have the second is a much bigger clam shell, you will enjoy this kiln but be prepared to go bigger soon. I have been using it for 6 years, mostly top elements. My element recently starting sagging so I now mostly used the side elements and really don't see much of a different.
Yes the smaller the pieces the faster you can go. When you do smaller pieces try to fill you kiln shelf, It cost the same price to make one pendant as it does to make twenty five. I like to fire lower and longer, I find it is easier on the kiln and I get much more control. Lots of people crash cool, I don't it's hard on the kiln.
Good luck and have fun, you will get addicted:
Bob

[Brad Walker]

I run the Square 146GFE with side elements only and have done so for the six years I have owned it. The only time I use top elements is at the high point of some deep slumps.

The manual recommends side elements at first, then switch to top only when the temperature gets above 1100F. I rarely fire it that way, mainly because I'm not usually around the kiln when it's above 1100F.

There's normally no need to flash vent. It's an old fashioned idea from another era of fusing.

Yes, smaller pieces like jewelry can be fired more aggressively than larger pieces.

Enjoy your kiln and good luck with all your fusing projects.

[Bert Weiss]

The key word is evenivity. I am not familiar with the kiln, so I don't know if the 2 sets of elements have equal wattage. The more evenly you apply heat, the quicker you can heat up without breaking glass. That is in play up to 1000ºF. Above 1000 it is all about heat work. Again, an evenly heated kiln can yield consistent heat work.

As a kiln designer, for a fusing kiln, I would choose to supply enough wattage in the roof to get the fusing job done, and use no other element placements. This works up through 1.5" thick (in my kiln). If I want to work thicker, I would provide elements in both roof and floor.

Side elements can be good for casting. They supply even heat around a mold. An ideal casting kiln has elements on 6 sides.

All that said, if your side elements have more wattage than the roof, it may work best using those. The catch is that you have to program heatups to be slow enough to avoid breakage. You also want to place your shelf such that there is not an element directly facing the edge of glass being fused. This can seal the edges before the bubbles are squeezed out. For a side fired kiln, you probably need to bubble squeeze at the lowest possible point to avoid those edges from sealing up.

[Brad Walker]

All that said, if your side elements have more wattage than the roof, it may work best using those.

That's the case with the Square 146GFE.

[Bert Weiss]

All that said, if your side elements have more wattage than the roof, it may work best using those.

That's the case with the Square 146GFE.

I figured as much. I find it irritating that so many kilns are designed for the convenience of the kiln maker with little regard to the kiln user.

[JestersBaubles]

you also want to place your shelf such that there is not an element directly facing the edge of glass being fused. This can seal the edges before the bubbles are squeezed out. For a side fired kiln, you probably need to bubble squeeze at the lowest possible point to avoid those edges from sealing up.

Interesting point that I haven't thought of. I need to check my shelf height on my large skutt.

Dana w.