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I've got a Skutt 1414 with a dedicated outlet. I'm adding a 12-year old Paragon GL24. I've only got the amperage to run one at a time, so I'm thinking I'll have the Paragon's cord changed to a Skutt cord so I can simply swap which kiln is plugged in. Sound reasonable? Any reason I shouldn't do this?

what does it look like, and what is the amperage of each kiln? there are standards for plugs, each can carry a certain amperage and are designed so you can't plug something into a line where it shouldn't be plugged into.

if your existing kiln takes a higher amperage than the new one and the line is sized for that one, then yes. if the reverse, then no.

Valerie Adams wrote:I've got a Skutt 1414 with a dedicated outlet. I'm adding a 12-year old Paragon GL24. I've only got the amperage to run one at a time, so I'm thinking I'll have the Paragon's cord changed to a Skutt cord so I can simply swap which kiln is plugged in. Sound reasonable? Any reason I shouldn't do this?

Unless I'm mistaken, both kilns require 50 amp breakers and both come with a Nema 6-50 plug. Check the plate on the kilns to make sure they have the same power requirements. And how are the plugs different?

If it turns out that these kilns draw the same power, then you might want to consider installing a box with two outlets and a switch to go from one to the other, rather than constantly plugging and unplugging the kilns. That can lead to trouble down the road.

I don't have the GL24 here yet but looked at the plug, and it's different than the Skutt. They do both run on a 50 amp breaker, which I have. Sounds like it would be smarter to take the route you're recommending, Brad. We'll see what the electrician tells me when the kiln arrives in a couple weeks.

Thanks!

Having done a plug 2 kilns in thing, I like Brad's suggestion a lot. You can also switch from the plug to a hard wire, if the electrician wants to. The either or switch is a good idea.

If you forget to switch out the sending unit/thermocouple from one kiln to another when you've plugged in one kiln without it........
That is why you don't do what you are thinking of doing.

Kevin Midgley wrote:If you forget to switch out the sending unit/thermocouple from one kiln to another when you've plugged in one kiln without it........
That is why you don't do what you are thinking of doing.

Not sure what you're concerned about Kevin. There's no switching of the thermocouple from one kiln to another, each kiln has its own thermocouple and controller. All you're doing is switching power from one kiln to another. It's the same as plugging and unplugging, except that you don't have to fiddle with the cords to make the change.

Brad Walker wrote:

Kevin Midgley wrote:If you forget to switch out the sending unit/thermocouple from one kiln to another when you've plugged in one kiln without it........
That is why you don't do what you are thinking of doing.

Not sure what you're concerned about Kevin. There's no switching of the thermocouple from one kiln to another, each kiln has its own thermocouple and controller. All you're doing is switching power from one kiln to another. It's the same as plugging and unplugging, except that you don't have to fiddle with the cords to make the change.

Exactly as Brad says. I'm not sharing a controller or anything between the two. I'm selling my Paragon Fusion 10 and replacing it with a Paragon GL24. Unfortunately, the two of them have different plugs. Because of studio logistics and the size of the GL24, it's going to have to live next to my large Skutt, very far away from where the soon-to-be-sold Fusion 10 plugs in.

The power line runs to the Skutt, and across the room to the Fusion 10. I'll need an extra plug outlet next to the Skutt's so I can plug in the new GL24.

Valerie Adams wrote:I don't have the GL24 here yet but looked at the plug, and it's different than the Skutt. They do both run on a 50 amp breaker, which I have. Sounds like it would be smarter to take the route you're recommending, Brad. We'll see what the electrician tells me when the kiln arrives in a couple weeks.

Thanks!

My Paragon GL 24ATDTSD uses a NEMA 6-50P connecter.

I have the same issue -- existing Skutt GM1414. I purchased a Cress GK2 at the Expo (woo hoo! drop bottom -- exciting!). I have *asked* them to switch out the cord on the Cress to a NEMA 6-50 before shipping and they said they would. Hopefully, that will happen

Dana W.

BTW, if you guys are "against" plugging/unplugging cords, then how do you "turn off" your kiln and how do you protect it from power surges?

When I mentioned many months ago that I was considering turning on/off the breaker (since the Skutt is the only thing on it), everyone told me the breaker was an expensive switch . So, I went back to pulling the plug so to speak (which is a pain -- literally -- with my arthritic wrists).

So... aside from installing a knife switch (or now, a three-way switch), how is one to protect their equipment?

Dana

When I want to turn mine off completely, I use the circuit breaker. They may be a big switch but they can be turned off and on a lot with out problems. If at some point in the future they start to get a little lose, they really are simple to replacel and you don't have to turn off your electricity either as long as you take into consideration what you are doing. You just snap it out and snap a new one in. But it really will be a long time before you have to replace it... unless you got a really cheaply made one.

Mike

Mike Jordan wrote:When I want to turn mine off completely, I use the circuit breaker. They may be a big switch but they can be turned off and on a lot with out problems. If at some point in the future they start to get a little lose, they really are simple to replacel and you don't have to turn off your electricity either as long as you take into consideration what you are doing. You just snap it out and snap a new one in. But it really will be a long time before you have to replace it... unless you got a really cheaply made one.

Mike

Thanks, Mike.That's what an electrician told me the other day when I went to replace the cord on my treadmill (apparently, I must be hard on plugs. I've ruined the treadmill cord and a laptop cord -- with both, ended up with the ground pole left in the socket. I blame it on hand weakness!).

Dana W.

For an industrial scale kiln, the proper design has a high temp limit circuit with a hitemp limit controller with it's own thermocouple, a double pole Normally open relay for each zone, and a simple light switch to turn the controller on or off. The high temp limit controller powers the relays to be closed. So when you throw the light switch, the controller turns off, and the relays open, which removes all power from the elements. While the kiln is operating, If the thermocouple reaches the setpoint of the controller (say 1700 or 1800 depending on what you are trying to do), it will automatically open the relays so you can't run away. If you like to comb with a metal rod, this is also an excellent system.

In most kiln circuits, the elements are turned on or off by controlling a single leg of a double leg power setup. This means that if you contact an element to ground, it will draw 120volts. This is a potential danger. By using a double pole relay, you can take all power off of the system.

Industrial codes require this. We are not subject to these codes for the most part.

All that said, I often throw my breakers to remove any possibility of the kilns turning on. I do this if I am leaving home for a while. I'm talking about a few times a year. I have my controllers on the light circuit, so the controller stays powered 24/7/365. I have never had a power surge incident with my controllers. I have lost some computer motherboards in the house, but for some reason, it has never blown a controller board.