I have a nice little Jen-Ken Fusing and Bead Annealing Kiln. I am taking a class for beginner fusing and I have never used a kiln yet. So you won't think I am a geek, I have been into stained glass for 14 years.
My first question to you all is: Can I "cure" for lack of a better term, the kiln wash on the bottom of my kiln, like I would the shelves at 500 degrees (lid propped a little), rather then waiting for them to air day?
Also: Can the thicker Kaiser Board be cut into small blocks and used for posts under a shelf, or would it be too soft to support it? And, if so, do I need to put kiln wash on the Kaiser blocks, I am guessing not?
Okay one more: How can I tell if I have adequate kiln was on my shelves and kiln floor. I am using Primo Primer and mixed as directed, 5 to 8 coats. I am guessing that is good enough. That solution is kinda thin, it that right?
Thank You Kindly!
Mali
· How is it one careless match can start a forest fire, but it takes a whole box to start a campfire?
My first question to you all is: Can I "cure" for lack of a better term, the kiln wash on the bottom of my kiln, like I would the shelves at 500 degrees (lid propped a little), rather then waiting for them to air day?
Yes.
Also: Can the thicker Kaiser Board be cut into small blocks and used for posts under a shelf, or would it be too soft to support it? And, if so, do I need to put kiln wash on the Kaiser blocks, I am guessing not?
I don't know Kaiser Board's but would suggest kiln posts simply because they are cheap and are designed to have minimum surface area against the kiln shelf (holes in center) to minimize uneven heating of the shelf.
Okay one more: How can I tell if I have adequate kiln was on my shelves and kiln floor. I am using Primo Primer and mixed as directed, 5 to 8 coats. I am guessing that is good enough. That solution is kinda thin, it that right?
Most people like thinnish kiln wash, although I make mine more like cream when I'm coating a kiln floor. You might want to invest in some BE (Bullseye) kiln wash as it tends to give the best results when fusing.
I will have to get some Bullseye Kiln wash.
I see a lot of people on this board seem to prefer it.
Is that the pink stuff?
Thanks, Mali
mali, i use both ed hoy's primo primer - cautiously, usually when i have clear on the bottom, test it with what you are doing before committing to using it with production pieces - and at the moment ed hoy's hotline hifire brand, that one is pink, think the be might be blue but i haven't opened that container yet. i mix both varieties of ed hoys primer 4 to 1, with primo it is thinner seeming than the hifire, i use 6 coats with either one....
D
I used the Primo Primer last night (it's all I have for now). I was very happy with the results. The Primo Kiln wash worked well for the hobby stuff I was doing, remarkably smooth on the bottom. I will still try the Bullseye.
I put 10 coats of kiln wash on the shelve that I used last night. I am wondering how many firings I can get out of that before re-coating. It looks perfectly intact. I just lifted my pieces right off without scratching the surface. Can kiln wash be reused and if so, how can I tell when it needs replacing? When it's chipping off and showing parts of the bare shelf?
Thanks Kindly, Mali
· How is it one careless match can start a forest fire, but it takes a whole box to start a campfire?
I do not change my kiln wash until it starts to chip off - I can get several firings before having to "re wash". You'll definitly see when it needs to be redone.
My first question to you all is: Can I "cure" for lack of a better term, the kiln wash on the bottom of my kiln, like I would the shelves at 500 degrees (lid propped a little), rather then waiting for them to air day?
Thanks Carol!