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Re: Removing Rim From A Large Drop

Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 10:34 pm
by Warren Weiss
Buttercup,
In the future I would probably start with a circle to save glass. Seachange's photos show the Bullseye method which will leave the sawed edge facing upward which is easier to finish with the "wet grit on window glass" method. If you tried with the flange down you could only cut straight lines with a tile saw.
Warren

Re: Removing Rim From A Large Drop

Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 2:34 am
by Buttercup
Thanks Warren. I was wondering about they method you'd use to replicate the octagonal rim you achieved on the glass in the photo, if you ever wanted to.......just speculating that an octagonal blank would be a step ahead of a circle, or would that be a doomed slump?

I realize the limitations of the 'flange-facing-down' method and that it would need considerable tidying-up with a grinder or WBS. I'm struggling with a paw that's not yet able to hold the glass up off the saw bed so looking for workarounds. Jen

Re: Removing Rim From A Large Drop

Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 9:50 am
by Warren Weiss
Hi Buttercup,
If I wanted an octagon, I would start with a square. It is easy to cut the straight lines with a tile saw and the sawn edge is clean and easy to polish. The reason I went with a 19" square over a 12" hole originally was to minimize the chance of the glass falling through the hole.
Warren

Re: Removing Rim From A Large Drop

Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:40 pm
by Buttercup
Thanks, Warren. That makes sense. Jen

Re: Removing Rim From A Large Drop

Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 7:31 pm
by KaCe
I am excited to read this topic. I just finished cleaning up under my deck so I can move my tile saw into my studio to cut off my flanges on the drop parfait glasses I made in February. I had thought of my ring saw to cut kerfs into the flange to remove stress. I have been a wood worker for decades. When working wood and cutting a curve with tight tolerances it is best to cut just up to the point you want to trim and at a 90° angle to it. Then when you cut around the material, the flange falls off before it puts too much pressure on the remainder. (The more kerfs the less likely to have stress.)

I thought when reading the suggestions I might pack oil based clay (sculpting clay that doesn't dry out) into my parfait glasses to give them some added support. Then on the outside I could use it for a better grip. (Like the suggestion of duct tape). I have one sample to try every thing on, before I do the "real" two that I want to turn out.

Oh, BTW, I am pleased to hear how happy you are with the large drop. I have a series I want to do for the Pt. Defiance Zoo and Aquarium's fundraiser this summer... and I want to include a large serving bowl. I am encouraged by your success.

PS Love this board.