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Hi,
Just purchased some fusemaster kiln wash and it just chips off as it drys.
The stuff I had before was really great (was at least 8 yrs old stuff) and this just doesn't work the same way. Looks like really old paint that needs chipping and repainting after it drys. like it pops of the shelf. Is this normal? goes on blue and when fired turns white that part seems normal but the chipping, and of course the redoing shelves is driving me crazy. Am I doing something wrong or has anyone else experienced this problem with fusemaster Thanks in advance. Chris

Chris H wrote:Hi,
Just purchased some fusemaster kiln wash and it just chips off as it drys.
The stuff I had before was really great (was at least 8 yrs old stuff) and this just doesn't work the same way. Looks like really old paint that needs chipping and repainting after it drys. like it pops of the shelf. Is this normal? goes on blue and when fired turns white that part seems normal but the chipping, and of course the redoing shelves is driving me crazy. Am I doing something wrong or has anyone else experienced this problem with fusemaster Thanks in advance. Chris

I have not tryed fuzemaster

What did U use B4 ??

Lanies lovely BE pink is well liked here

Or try adding asy 10 - 20 % kaolin to the current mix this should soften it

The previous stuff didn't have a name on the bag and I threw the bag away. But it worked much better than this stuff. Guess I'll have to break down and order the bullseye wash. Lucky thing I just purchased a small bag of this stuff. and it's going fast since i have to keep reapplying it. What is kaolan and where do you get it. Thanks

Hi Chris,

Kaolin is a type mica... one of the minerals that make up shale. You can get it at pottery supply places. Years ago I tried making my own kiln wash using a recipe from either an early Lundstrom Book or from the Gil Reynolds book. It left a very grainy surface and peeled off the shelf during firing. I would look for the finest grained materials possible. There are others on this board that make their own wash... I believe Bert makes his own. Their recipes can probably be found in the archives. I kind of like Hot Line kiln wash.

Cheers,

Bob

Chris H wrote:The previous stuff didn't have a name on the bag and I threw the bag away. But it worked much better than this stuff. Guess I'll have to break down and order the bullseye wash. Lucky thing I just purchased a small bag of this stuff. and it's going fast since i have to keep reapplying it. What is kaolan and where do you get it. Thanks

Also called china clay

The mix is china clay / alumina

Equal ammounts give a hard mix

More of Alumina gives a softer mix

Actualy I thing I was wrong previously

2 soften ur mix add alumina

But U will have problems getting it real fine

If U only want small amounts get the BE wash

Chris H wrote:Hi,
Just purchased some fusemaster kiln wash and it just chips off as it drys.
The stuff I had before was really great (was at least 8 yrs old stuff) and this just doesn't work the same way. Looks like really old paint that needs chipping and repainting after it drys. like it pops of the shelf. Is this normal? goes on blue and when fired turns white that part seems normal but the chipping, and of course the redoing shelves is driving me crazy. Am I doing something wrong or has anyone else experienced this problem with fusemaster Thanks in advance. Chris

Chris

Being that kiln wash has 2 (active) ingredients, alumina and kaolin, they sometimes seperate out so the rest of your mix would have bad proportions. Buy some new mix and see how it works.

As Bob said, I make my own with 80/20 alumina to kaolin for fusing on shelves and 50/50 for slumping. The reason for the difference is that after fusing I remove the wash every time. Kaolin will leave a white scum after it has been fired over 1400ºF. For slumping I make the harder mix and leave it on as long as it lasts. The commercial mixes are 50/50, I think. Like Bob said, the commercial mixes use very fine alumina which you may or may not get at your local pottery supply.

My homemade mix works for me. It is cheap and effective. I like to work with the texture and make it interesting.

Thanks for your help! Bob, Bert, Brian
Chris

Another note on what you've already been told.

About 2 years ago I started getting TERRIBLE bubbles between the shelf or mold surface and the back of the glass. I was using Spectrum series 96 and it happened with a new shipment. After doing all the usual testing I concluded I didn't have the slightest idea what was wrong except that I couldn't continue with these bubbles; some were the size of a grapefruit!

Finally I talked to Spectrum. After threatening to blow his car up, the man I spoke with admitted they had changed their formula for white, had terrible bubbles and solved them by going to Bullseye wash. I changed over (I was using Hot Line) and have been "bubbelless" every since. In addition, the BE gives a much smoother finish to the back of the glass.

As to your problem; my guess is you've either got something on your shelf that is interferring with a good application or you've got inferior wash. I'd try the BE and see how it works. That would eliminate one variable and it's cheaper than replacing your shelf.

Jerry

Bert Weiss wrote:

Chris H wrote:Hi,
Just purchased some fusemaster kiln wash and it just chips off as it drys.
The stuff I had before was really great (was at least 8 yrs old stuff) and this just doesn't work the same way. Looks like really old paint that needs chipping and repainting after it drys. like it pops of the shelf. Is this normal? goes on blue and when fired turns white that part seems normal but the chipping, and of course the redoing shelves is driving me crazy. Am I doing something wrong or has anyone else experienced this problem with fusemaster Thanks in advance. Chris

Chris

Being that kiln wash has 2 (active) ingredients, alumina and kaolin, they sometimes seperate out so the rest of your mix would have bad proportions. Buy some new mix and see how it works.

As Bob said, I make my own with 80/20 alumina to kaolin for fusing on shelves and 50/50 for slumping. The reason for the difference is that after fusing I remove the wash every time. Kaolin will leave a white scum after it has been fired over 1400ºF. For slumping I make the harder mix and leave it on as long as it lasts. The commercial mixes are 50/50, I think. Like Bob said, the commercial mixes use very fine alumina which you may or may not get at your local pottery supply.

My homemade mix works for me. It is cheap and effective. I like to work with the texture and make it interesting.

Yo Bert

Try bentonite as a suspension agent

U need 2 wet it 4 a few days keep mixing eventually put it through a sieve

I keep some mixed up thick n add it as the urge takes me

Do test it out as it may give U problems

But it works 4 me

Thanks everyone for your insight. I just ordered some of the kiln wash from Bullseye. Chris

The bullseye kiln wash is working great Thought I'd post a picture of the way the self looked with the problem wash. Brought it back where I purchased it for a refund. Boy that stuff was awful!
http://community.webshots.com/photo/691 ... 2381cfLHyq

Gee Chris--that photo looks familiar! I too had been using the blue stuff but it's a waste....just got my bucket of Bullseye pink kilnwash last week and promise to never stray again!

JJ