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As we have all found, the larger the piece the more problems show up. Finding a kiln big enough, moving it, the engineering to hang it safely, and finishing it are just the most obvious. If it is in pieces you can hang each seperately and leave some "breathing" space in between, reducing t...

If you want science why not survey/visit glass artists from all over the world to find out what they use and how they work. Then test the best mold formlas with a variety of glasses commonly used in casting and various firing schedules to see which ones work best? Then add some discussions with the ...

As Bert says plaster is the tradional material used but I have found that after the first layer of silicone for detail I can add more to thicken it so it can stand some on its own. Then I add paster to make sure it will be strong enough. Plaster is cheaper than silicone but can take time.

Gabbert Cullett (listed on the hot glass board http://www.talk.craftweb.com) has a variety of glasses that are opaque. Give them a call and they will send you sample.

Each glass has it own formula so even different glasses with the same COE can melt differently, especially different viscoity.

In most situations turning off the switches will not be a problem for a short time. Many kilns have automatic switches that turn off the elements when the door opens. If you really have questions about your controller, ask Orton. They should say as much.

It could also help to wash the glass. Some of the fine ground glass from the shop floor or in shipping will stick to the glass and leave "halos" in your pieces. To make the halos show up more sandblast the pieces first.

How long you take to get to melt point will also be determined by the location of your elements. For this purpose a top fired kiln could help the mold survive longer sit is farther from the element. Is is likely that your mold will be very weak if you take it up to 1600 F. Try to use a short time fr...

If you must use wire why not copper. It is soft enough to move with the mold but provide some support. Talk to an electrician or go to your local metal recycler. The smaller the better. But the best solution is fiberglass "shorts" in the mold outer mold added after the plaster mix is wet. ...

So why not use yellow glass? Do a search for Silver Stain and you will get what you need but yellow glass would shorten your time since you won't have to experiment. There seems to be a time to be cheap with glass and a time to spend more for the glass and get the money sooner (unless you want to do...

Steph, I have taken a couple of workshops on public art and the general rule of thumb is to start with small projects and plan well. The vast majority of first and second timers under plan the amount of time it will take and end up loosing money. Most artists just break even at best. So if you are g...

Of course buying a better display gets averaged out over time - both the cost and the benefit. What were your highest expenses? Is there a way to lower some of those costs? Did you bring help, kids, the dog? I hear that some potters are renting trucks together and making the trip (from CA) to big sh...

I tried the Gaffer casting glass today and it worked very well. This was a new, uncast, un-sandblasted piece that was dipped for 5 minutes in the solution. The surface was smooth and consistant except where it was obvious that we had touched it with our hands. More info on use with other fusing glas...

Enquiring minds... I only get flashing if I heat up too fast...in my experience that is the primary factor in flashing. How fast do you fire and is it wet or mostly dried by that time? Your dry climate can certainly be a factor here. Since I got the CD I have been questioning everything I thought I ...

Carol, It would help me understand how you do this without the advantage of dry mixing if I knew the answers to the follwing:

How thick are your molds? Are they poured or hand built?
Do your molds crack (resulting in flashing) or does the glass stick?
What glass are you using?

Thanks,

Here are 3 pages from Stina's big web site. I had completely forgotten about her clay molds. She uses kiln wash to prevent siticking and doesn't worry so much about the fine surface many of us are after out of the mold. She uses high fire stoneware and bisque fires the mold first. http://www.art.net...

Depending on the kind of work you are doing the CV may not even be necessary. At the lower end (read: production, unlimited series, etc.) most galleries don't care about anything but the work you want to sell. Write a nice hangtag (or have someone else write it) description to go with the slides or ...

Don't cook it so high. I never slump over 1200 and prefer closer to 1150.

Slump first, Sanblast last.

Something I missed in your first post was the hydrocal. It is a type 2 plaster and is more vulerable to cracking at these temps. It might be ok on the outside of the mold but the inside needs to be softer. Yes, I mean that the clay will break. You need a binder (#1 Pottery plaster) a refractory (sil...

Also add 5-10% Kaolin to the mix and it will help too.