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Judd wrote:Jim said Cone 015 for BE glass. Window and bottle glasses need more heat.

oh, got it. yeah, I think 1600 is best for bottle and window glass.

jim simmons wrote:for BE frit I wouldn't go above cone 015
The other Jim

oh, that's 1456F. you mean even for soda lime glass?

at 1456F it wasn't melted well for bottle glass.

I make my own kiln wash. I use 20% EP Kaolin, 80% Alumina Hydrate. Even with that, I have had sticking at Cone 05. I know when they make African Powder beads, they have a lot of sticking. They wash the beads in a sand/water slurry. Hi Jodd, Thank you for your comments. Ok, I might need to down more...

For fusing compatible art frit, make sure that your mold is prepped. I use ZYP coating from colour de verre. You can also use BE kiln wash. Then after you put in the frit, either/and/or, mound it in the center of the mold with the sides a little way FROM the mold. This will allow the frit to CLIMB ...

Are you wanting to make something like the African Bottle Beads? If so, you should crush your glass until its powder. If you're expecting your frit to smooth out like fusing glass, that will never happen unless you hit really high temps - like 2000 Fahrenheit. At least, that has been my experience....

Thank you! Yeah, I think it's really hard to make the casting beads.

I will look up more:)

Hi all! I am new to glasswork(lampwork, fusing glass). I try to use the bottle glass to make beads. From the lampworking, I got nice beads with using bottle glass, but I am still struggling with bottle frit casting. I made frits from bottle glass and tested them on the molds with the several firing ...