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Thanks Don! I've tried a piece now and results pretty good even going to 1075. I was also wondering what would happen to a previously stained piece if it goes back up say in a subsequent firing of Series 5 paint?...so 1275-1300 ish? I'm about to test where I would fire silver stain in first firing, ...

Hi Don, So glad I found this silver stain example of yours, beautiful! Only a couple of years late! I have in my stash of very old Reusche paints some Amber Stain (H465) (Reusche item D292465). I've got about 7 ounces and I'm certain this package is 20 years old! I'm assuming there's no reason it co...

Thanks Brad. Yes, I don't want to make life a living hell, so that advice sounds good. Will need to make sure I bake in the registrations in the designs. The Series 5 low temp is 1140 - sounds like a good starting point and will keep glass nice and flat.

I'm having some success with screen printing with the help of many generous people on this board. The sample attached is thin float (sandblasted on back) with homemade enamel: mason stains in Reusche Series 5 clear flux, a dash of gum-arabic made into a screen paste using a mix of propylene glycol a...

I don't mind the work as I apparently don't have as much luck as you finding old windows for float glass. Thanks!

Hi All, I'm renovating a bathroom and have a large piece of 1/4" thick mirror glass (6' x 4') I'd like to reuse. I have a pass-thru sandblasting setup and could with some careful effort, remove the mirror coating. My goal would be to have some larger 1/4" float on which I can apply vitreou...

Thanks Don. I've used Ulano films before and was happy with them. If the Ecotex emulsion I'm waiting for doesn't work out I'll check out the Ulano Orange. Ideally getting back up and running I might have used a film, even if pricier. From my research so far, I don't see a film that is used with wate...

Follow-up: I've ordered some "Ecotex® PWR Water Resistant Screen Printing Emulsion" given there weren't many emulsions out there advertising reasonably good water soluble "ink" resistance. I would have tried a capillary film, but water-resistant type isn't much of a thing yet - m...

Hi! I'm slowly getting back into screen printing with enamels on float and have read many relevant posts. I'm pretty much following Bert's advice as its so close to what I'm trying to do. I'm using Reusche or Reusche clear glaze (all of the Series 5 lead/cad free variety) with mason stains as my pig...

My interest in gluing flats together would be in making it more safe for however I want to install...whether in a frame or frameless using an offset from the wall. Also, I'm looking at painting on multiple thinner sheets of float as well and gluing them together for a 3d effect which would also impr...

Brad, was there any particular silicone you suggest? I'm seeing people using a silicone called "Bohle Verifix 2K", which while also expensive the quantity is larger so probably much more cost effective than HXTAL. Plus it doesn't require vacuum degassing. Your comment about transparency wa...

Thanks Brad. I've since found a reference that says Ben Young is using UV cured glue to bind layers.

Hi All! I'm finding my way back to an old stash of Reusche paints and want to locate 1/4" basic annealed float glass (not low-e,starphire) in smaller quantities. Say 24 x 24" max, to cut myself. I think this is going to be a challenge. I can go to the big box stores and readily get all the...

Hi All, I seem to get soft blisters/bubbles/distentions - not sure what to call them - in my mold face. They arise during steaming and I'm not sure why. In the last mold where this happened, I used two splash coats and a jacket coat, but I'm not necessarily seeing a pattern as I've seen it before wi...

Thank you Peter.

I tried waiting 24 hours and still had the issue. For now on this design that has an open clean exit path for wax through sprue [vertical candlestick] I'm just going to melt it out, maybe a quick shot of steam afterwards if I see residue. Trying that now.

Hi All, I'm having nagging problems with my molds breaking during steam-out at certain delicate points. For example, I have a wax model that is a candlestick, where there's a cylindrical 1 inch hole in the top to accept the candle. The plaster cylinder that forms the hole keeps breaking and its driv...

I'm a bit unsure as to how long I should cure my molds prior to drying. The application is lost wax, not Pdv or open face. BE recommends wrapping molds in plastic for 24 - 48 hours before drying. My typical mold is 10 inch diameter cylinder by 5 inches tall. I've been curing for 24 hours plastic-wra...

Great info, thanks Cynthia.

Thanks Pete

I thought I would tack my question onto this thread as it directly relates. I'm getting back access to studio after years of being away and will be focusing on casting using bullseye frits. I'm having trouble sourcing small quantities of #1 Casting Plaster. For the formulas mentioned what might be a...