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You can "almost" always get away with slumping INTO a Stainless mold. The "rule" of not slumping into stainless is one of those rules that the rule maker never actually tried. Unless it has some intricate design which stainless never has, the glass should always come out easily. ...

no matter what the pressure your masking should NOT just come off. If the pressure is too high it might blast through the resist or "eat away" at it but the masking should stay put under any pressure. That's not to say it's ideal to blast at really high pressures, or that extremely small d...

It possibly wasn't fused but a sheet of tempered glass glued to a sheet of regular glass with the tempered glass shattered but held in place with the glue and clear sheet. It can also be done without the clear glass yet still using a glue of some sort. The laminated version has been around for decad...

Bert, I've replace every part imaginable at one time or another. You can buy replacement EVERYTHING for most air compressors. I've replace the the compressor heads, motors, pressure switches, unloader valves etc. I've had the thing get stuck on until the safety blown and come in hours later and the ...

Car WINDOWS are tempered....... car windshields are laminated.

Windows good to fuse

Windshields NOPE

who'd have thought talking about polarizing film could be so............... polarizing.

If the hole was drilled but not either refired or "smoothed" out it will easily break from the heat. When a hole is drilled and not either fire polished nor cleaned up there are dozens of "micro starts" these are microscopic flaws in the glass just waiting to "run" like...

Rick, soon I'll be looking for some more masking as my roll is running low. I went to the Avery site here and this is what they have in that category: http://www.gamart.com.au/AslanMaskingFilms.aspx Is one of these the product you use, please? Thanks Jen I am not familiar with that brand "Asla...

I used a product called "paint mask" (made by AVERY there are other brands also) it is used as a temporary masking for painting cars, signs etc (go figure) it is low tack and incredibly tough for pretty deep carving into glass. It is much easier to use than sandblast masks like "butte...

I have used a letralite photoresist system for over 20 years now and find it works amazing well for my needs. I don't usually do halftones however. I print my artwork onto ikonics UV II vellum with a hp laser printer and expose away. They say that printing onto the clear acetate gives better results...

I have both the photoresist and vinyl cutter. I bought this cutter from ebay for less than $400.00 and it works really well for what it is. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-24-Redsail-Vinyl-cutting-plotter-Best-Value-Sign-vinyl-cutter-Kit-Artcut-/251930669694?hash=item3aa83cf27e:g:~UoAAOSw1vlUzBfS It is ...

laydown a bed of clear powder to stand them up on, this will provide a leveling surface.

at 1000 c you have glass in basically a liquid form, glass blowers have their glass at around that temperature and it's the consistency of honey.

So yes that is plenty hot.

Respectfully though if you are not aware of basic temps I doubt this is something you should undertake.

at 1000 c you have glass in basically a liquid form, glass blowers have their glass at around that temperature and it's the consistency of honey.

So yes that is plenty hot.

Respectfully though if you are not aware of basic temps I doubt this is something you should undertake.

Mike,

I don't think that can be answered at all.

It all depends on dozens of variables, thickness of glass, location of area (ie edge or face), is the glass perfectly smooth and even. thickness, shape, flat or curved etc, etc,

Good luck,

Rick

in a word...... Hugely.

no regular uv glues will NOT work with opaque glass and metal.

Dymax does sell a uv glue that works with an activator though

http://www.dymax.com/index.php/adhesives

I disagree, I sandblast glass, stone, granite, marble, steel, ceramic mugs, stainless coffee mugs, stainless molds, and rust covered car parts all the time. It does NO HARM to your media at all.

I have been doing this for over 20 years and it is just fine.

Terry, I didn't mean to imply that I was intolerant of any alternatives. I just don't see the value in buying something that may not work that cannot be returned nor likely used for anything useful. I can certainly understand your reluctance to switch especially if you have a significant amount of 9...

Testing is great......until you buy a bunch of glass that DOESN'T test as expected. Now what? You are stuck with a bunch of product that is useless unless you are also a stained glass artist, mosaic artist or general glass hoarder. Why bother trying to save a dollar and get stuck with a bunch of use...