WarmGlass.com

Try here: http://talk.craftweb.com/

Nope.

A properly rigidized and KWed fiber mold can last for years. I had a torso mold for over 10 years. Because of their fragility it isbest to leave them on a dedicated shelf. They are fairly strong in a weight bearing sense, but can break with handling.

Yes, a lap machine is the way to go to get an edge parallel with the base.

Glue thick pieces of float?

If the mold is flat then you will have to raise it to ensure air can escape via the drilled holes .
If the mold is footed, then no problem, just drill and slump.

Where is the annealing?

I had a pair and quickly abandoned them. Overpriced and inefficient.

. . . And if I don't let the kilnwash dry at least a bit between coats, I just wind up dissolving the old kilnwash in the new...or making it too thick when they blend together. That doesn't happen for you? Nope. I don't put on a specific number of coats, because after all the the slurry can change f...

--The kilnwash went into the kiln wet. It needs to dry between coats . . .

Not in my experience.

I just think this is one of the best pieces I have seen in years . . . amazing.

That is absolutely gorgeous.

I have a vague memory about a Steve Tobin show from years ago involving bronze and glass.
I remember discussing it with someone then, but couldn't find anything in a quick search.
It is worth a look at his website: http://www.stevetobin.com/home.html

5) Quantity: Up to 126 maglesses per entrant (actual quantity to be determined after signup period is over).

I'd like to see that duplicated in a kiln. Post a picture . . .

Yeah, I think they are faults. They make the piece a second.

Sometimes due to the manufacturing process, there are small pits squished into the glass.
If you can't see that prior to firing, it just may be small bubbles below the surface that break open during firing.
If it's the latter, there's not much you can do . . .

Yup!

Looks like it's poured hot into a ring on a marver. Might be tough to make it 1/4" . . .