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Sandblast the stainless. Dilute the kilnwash. Heat the mold to about 350F, take it out of the kiln and spray the kw on it until you see wet spots (cooling metal). Repeat at least once and it'll last forever, or until someone runs their hands over the kw to see how smooth it is, or until someone scra...

That's exactly what you do- contact cement for the separation and new mag for the other.

Bullseye had a tip sheet or some such on fusing large projects (like Jun Kaneko's stuff). It involved lots of mullite shelves bridged with something.
Call them.

I don't have that lottery number either.

Bonnie- For the molds, put one hand under the mold and the other on the glass and invert over a table. Set the edge down, tip the mold up and Bob's your uncle (I had an Uncle Bob but he's late).

Duck tape.
(I'm assuming that Bonnie wants to position blanks in molds.)
Clean very well after positioning.

Just a guess, but looks to me like one end is a glass cutter, used to score the glass, and the other end is a suction cup to keep the tool in place. Could be used for circle cutter or strip cutting or possibly both. Only if that cutting wheel swivels... And speaking of swiveling wheels, why have a ...

I wouldn't do anything to the glass-contact surface. You could use anything on the bottom but that's assuming that people would look there before using the mold. How about hiding them? Putting them in a bag or box that says "keep out!"? Taking them home with you? Or having a meeting and sh...

Doing well, thanks, Havi. Enjoying Maine and my new studio.

It struck me, as I was once again looking up something in Stone's "Firing Schedules", that I know nothing about the man. The Rakow Library in Corning had very little. Does anyone here know anything and is willing to share? I'll be asking HIS and BE too, will try Richard Whitely too.

It sure looks like pay-to-play to me. If you have that kind of marketing budget, you could get in touch with some previous participants for feedback.
When I get these, I usually ask how much they'll pay me for content. That ends the conversation quickly.

Bullseye will give you about 50% off (assuming a sort-of-wholesale buy). Your local distributors will give you 40% on the same buy. The difference is shipping; you'll pay for it one way or another.
I'd rather do the 3 hour round trip to my local and help keep her in business.

My first wholesale account's (lo these many years...) first reaction to slow sales was to move things around in his store. Then he'd start raising prices. And keep raising prices. It worked.
Most of us undervalue our work and our time.
I'm raising prices tomorrow.

Don- it's strips on edge, cut in different widths so some will flop and flow. Watching the kiln is crucial until you know what happens when- you want the stuff stuck firmly to itself and the edges rounded nicely.

LED strips with a white diffuser on top- I used white plastic, sandblasted glass or white opal glass will work.

Where is "here"? All you need for the kiln shelves is sandpaper. Wet. Or dry with a good vacuum cleaner (and a face mask). If you go to fire polish temps (1300F+) and your piece is not in the mold, it will deform. You need to support it. One of the drawbacks to kilnforming is that you only...

Take a look at BE's gallery shelf. Visualize turning it so the wall part is behind the work, not underneath it, with the lip up in front of the piece, like a capital L in profile with the upright at the wall. Have one fabricated locally (a real easy thing for a sheet metal shop to do) to fit your pi...

Either will work. I used ss fender washers.

#4- get Brad's book.
and #1 seems to be FB if you can stand it.

Ditto to Kevin's post but just to confuse the issue- Digitry is expensive but worth it. Call Ron Digitry and see what he's got in used reconditioned ones. (Digitry isn't his real last name) The glassmakers who make their own equipment go to Partlow and Watlow and other makers for really cheap DIY co...

Spray the kw on.