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This has come up before. I happen to have a little personal experience also. Grinder company was very nice about sending a new set screw - but it won't work because the threads were damaged pulling out the old. Prevention in the form of lubricant or anti-seize applied in advance, or frequent removal...

Paul:

Thanks for the references. The two Craft Report articles are informative and that book would be good also. The Allworth catalog looks like it has many much needed business references for artists.

Jane

Dani: Yes, I think it sounds backwards to me too. But they might be saying that 30% is their potential profit - their interest in the piece so to speak - so that is what they stand to lose if the piece is broken. We'll see. I'll let you know how I end up. I am also checking with my insurance agent t...

Thanks for the State Code reference site link, Charlie. This thread is particularly pertinent for me this week. A new gallery wants to show several of my pieces beginning next month. The consignment fee is only 30%. But the consignment contract they forwarded for my review says I will only be reimbu...

When I think of crystal I think of clarity - flawless yet soft. I think most people use the generic term crystal to refer to lead glass. Take a look at these links: At the bottom of this page is a quick recap of glass recipes: http://www.glassacad.com/christinec4.html Definition from Iowa State: Cry...

Many types of ordinary "stained" glass are prone to devit. It will not go just disappear in a second firing. If you slump the piece back on to a flat shelf the thick and thin spots will still be there. If the shape (sides) of the bowl are very steep, it may not lay back down evenly either....

Randy: You are on the right track. Black satin cord from a jewelry supplier is probably what you have there. I get it from Rio Grande, but online try Fire Mountain http://www.firemountaingems.com/thread.asp or Rings & Things https://www.rings-things.com/cgi-bin/hazel/hazel.cgi/hzpi/u/HzSt0113170...

Here is the link to Rob Morey's setup/demo: http://www.ramoreydesign.com/Photosetup.html And two threads from the old archive: http://www.warmglass.com/cgi-bin/wgarchive3.pl?read=48563 http://www.warmglass.com/cgi-bin/wgarchive3.pl?read=49348 Lots of good suggestions in these. My hubby did the digit...

Borax and water solution are a devitrification prevention tool - take a look at the "Make your own" section in the tutorial above. From what I have read, the borax acts as a flux, it makes the glass soften at a lower temperature. For me, it seems to help keep the edges from clouding up wit...

Ann: In my kiln I have good luck getting a fire polish at 1200. I sometimes throw them in around a larger piece I am slumping. After I cut (saw) the cabs or barrettes, I clean them thoroughly and apply borax to the edge only. They come out edge polished and with straight vertical sides but without t...

Here you go:

http://www.mortonglass.com/sb01sb80.pdf

Happy cutting!

Jane

Paul

It looks wonderful. And you are correct - it is the perfect place for highlighting your leaf.

It looks like autumn just landed in the pond.

Do you intend for it to be displayed on a horizontal surface or hang vertically?

Congratulations - keep up the good work.

Jane

Sorry about the link with no contact info. Here is their homepage:

http://www.unitradeassoc.com/index.htm

Here is an information page on how to make your own "tindicator": http://arthur.sale.tripod.com/id106.htm Here is a Canadian stamp company that sells small cheap shortwave units for $34.95 Canadian. I got one of these a few months ago - still working fine. http://www.unitradeassoc.com/Supp...

Molly: Jerry and Tony have given good advice on your kiln. Heating and cooling as fast as you are can definitely cause cracks. One more idea though - just in case you don't know this. Are you using "compatible" glass? You need to make sure that all the pieces of glass you are fusing togeth...

Jackie: Just to muddy the waters with another choice - I got what Abrasive Technology calls "diamond strips". They have the same surface as the foam handpads but can be used by themselves for inside curves and tight spaces or velcroed to a backing block for flat areas. Here's the link: htt...

It probably was Bob. Here's the archive link:

http://www.warmglass.com/cgi-bin/wgarch ... read=42376

Here's the page

http://www.fusionheadquarters.com/Pages/Overglaze.html

Just a few ideas: What temperature are you slumping at? Do you really need to flash cool it? If your slump temperature isn't in the devit range there is no reason to accelerate the cool down to annealing - you are risking thermal shock. I would also elevate the mold off the shelf for even heating an...

What kind of glass are you using? Has the bowl already been fused?

What temperature are you slumping at?

Some more details will help.