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The big issue with kiln shelves is the cost of shipping them, so it's best to find someone close to you who sells them so you can pick the shelf up rather than have it shipped.

Where are you located?

Bonnie Rubinstein wrote: On a mesh melt, are light colors the only options?

I mostly use opaques and clears. Why would light colors be the only option?

Got an after photo?

They're out of business.

jim simmons wrote: My shoulder started to bother me when I was around70 and has just gotten worse.
*85 and counting :>)

Great, something to look forward to.

Sorry about your shoulder. Having just turned 65, I can certainly sympathize. I haven't tried ZYP on the shelf, but am not sure how it would hold up to repeated firings. I guess I would just use thinfire or Papyrus, easy enough and you can vacuum it out as needed. But you can always try the ZYP and ...

Why would you want to?

Two options come to mind. One is a place that makes and installs granite countertops. They can drill holes. The other would be a place that fabricates headstones. Never tried either, but probably worth a few calls.

Because kilns are so variable and your desired look is so specific, the best option is to do some small scale testing to see what works for you in your process. Use a base glass and put frit of various sizes on it, then fire to different temperatures to see what you like. It's a bit more complicated...

Enjoyed the video, can't wait for part 2.

What Jim and Kevin said.

Can't really be done and even if you could figure out how to do it it would cost more than buying new old glass.

Before he passed away in 2011 Ron sent me a series of slides documenting his process. He actually made these boxes in two different ways: one was as Kevin described (encased in sand), the other was freestanding. I've done the sand version (used to teach it, long ago), it works well but like any cast...

For starters, white glue (or any glue, for that matter) will burn off before the two layers of glass fuse together, so you only consider glue as a way to help you get the glass into the kiln without moving, not a way to keep it from moving once its in the kiln. Also, ordinary white glue will sometim...

In general glass laminate is used to laminate two pieces of glass together (like a front windshield in a car). It's a kind of plastic film between the two and can't be fused in the kiln.

PloG errors mean the controller has detected a problem. It can be a lot of things. Sometimes it's just a glitch caused by a power surge or something that's a one off thing. PLoG 011, 012, or 013 errors mean there's a problem with a thermocouple. I believe 010 is a generic catch all error message (bu...

What was the complete firing schedule?

Do you recall the exact error message?

I would be very worried that the whole thing will fall through the drop ring hole. You said the glass is 5.5" in diameter and the drop ring hole is 4". That only leaves 3/4" of glass on the edges and it also looks to be chipped out. I don't see how it can hold on. However, I hardly e...

I would go 100F/55C per hour to your top temperature and then hold until it has slumped. You'll also need a longer anneal because the piece is thicker. I would hold for at least 3 hours. One more thought: I never fire drops higher than 1325F/720C. If I've waited half an hour to 45 minutes at that te...

Decals should be compatible with any glass. Different manufacturers have different firing schedules so you'll need to get some help from the place that sold them to you.

If the cooling profile from 1465 to 950 takes 2.5 or 3 hours with this kiln, is that going to work out or will I see devitrification? That's an entirely normal cooling rate. No need to crash cool. If you get devitrification it's more likely due to other factors than how rapidly you cool through thi...