WarmGlass.com

Yes.

Yes.

They're most likely way too tall.

Try this page: https://web.archive.org/web/20060501182 ... -help.html

Then click on the link to TSC Control Manual (Technical)

If that's not the manual you want, try the West 4400 Manual.

You're right, it's really old stuff, 10 to 15 years old.

For a short period back then Amaco had a fusible line, but it didn't last long. Not sure if it was made by Bullseye or someone else, but it's 90COE, just don't mix it with your 96.

Not sure what you mean by "Since there is no ramp up, its goes quickly to the setting." There's the same ramp up with side elements as with top elements, it's basically what you program. As far as temperature rise goes, the main thing having both elements on is it gets you up faster when y...

The infinite switch on top can be used to control how much heat comes from the top. In normal operation you set it to high, but you can dial it down if you wish. For casting, you often want side only heat, so can turn the top off. I used to believe that you had to fuse with top elements, but I no lo...

It will.

This is a really long shot, but here goes. There used to be (maybe still is) a blasting gun made by a guy named Bob Pickard and called the PAB Blaster. His site is dead, so I don't know if he is, too. Anyway, there's another guy named Eric Robert who says he has a similar product, but his site is re...

My experience is with the Dyson shelves. When that company went out of business, Euclid bought the rights so I assume the shelves are similar, if not the same. At any rate, Euclid should provide you with a recommended first firing schedule, so make sure to follow that. I heated up at around 250dph, ...

Just be careful with the Euclid shelves. They will crack and they hold lots of heat so expect it to take longer for the kiln to cool.

I don't believe a "perfect, large, light-as-a-feather, excruciatingly flat, warp-proof, crack-proof kiln shelf" exists. The Euclid shelves, or anything similar, will be too heavy to move in and out of the kiln on a regular basis. And they can crack if not fired properly. Fiber shelves are ...

The only other option I can think of is to sift by hand. I'm not capable of doing that evenly enough, but my wife is.

If you were laying down a thick layer you could use a screed (like a straightedge) to even it out, but that won't work for a thin layer.

A dry screen print is probably the easiest way.

Havi,

Jody sent in her application a few days ago, no problem, so I'm not sure what's happening for you. You might try a different web browser, sometimes that helps. (We used Firefox.)

Also, sometimes it helps to wait a day and try again.

Hope you're staying safe.

Brad

danieljanse wrote: ↑Sat Dec 30, 2023 2:30 pm I tried doing this but the paper did not want to stand on it's own. Does this work with Bullseye thin shelf or are you using a thicker variety?

Thinfire doesn't work standing up. You have to use regular fiber paper, 3mm or thicker.

Yes, scrap is more problematic. I would consider having a clear circle of glass as the base and build on top of that.

I'm not sure I'd use copper, not that strong. But you could confine the paper with nichrome (high temperature) wire instead of the posts.

Instead of posts, you could use cut up kiln shelves or kiln bricks (though the latter isn't as heavy as you'd prefer).

Wrap fiber paper around the circle. Two times around is best. Then hold it in place with LOTS of kiln posts.

One thing I should mention. Fiber kilns do heat up faster than brick ones, but usually you're constraining the rate with your schedule, so that difference doesn't come into play. Jen-Ken says that in their fiber kilns you can heat as fast as possible without cracking the piece, but I've never tried ...