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I have pictures in my head of how I imagine all the regulars to this board will look. Usually, I'm amused at how way off they are, but yours was closer than most :-) I like the piece and the concept- hope it brought in much cash for the charity. Thanks for posting this, and all your previous helpfu...

http://customartglass.com/images/startingpointBert.jpg This is me standing next to a conceptual piece I did for a charity auction to support Starting Point, a local agency that supports victims of domestic abuse. The theme of the evening is boots and bling. (this was as close as I could get to west...

Havi The transparent colors tend to be low fire, around 1050ºF. These colors are hard to come by these days. Fusemaster sells some. Ferro makes them, but does not export them to the USA. I think you can get them in Europe. There was a company called Glassmasters that screen printed transparent and o...

Glass guys dry grind all the time, with carbide sanding belts. I dry grind with my inch and an eighth by twenty one belt sander. The belts are specifically designed for dry grinding glass. If you build up too much heat, little chips fly off. I don't know anything about dry grinding with diamonds. I ...

Alexis, call Chuck Karnolt. He knows a lot about gluing glass.

Back in the 80's I paid $18 for a floral former from a glass wholesaler. Then I bought a martini shaker for $3.50 from a restaurant supply house. it turned out they were exactly the same, same manufacturer and everything.

The problem is that Bullseye kiln wash utilizes EPK for it's binder and EPK is clay with no organics. The only organic material in the BE wash would be the pink coloring. On the other hand, Primo uses an organic binder which would turn brown and then burn out.

I start with a razor blade, and finish with acetone.

I was lucky to find a backpack sprayer on sale, cheap. This works fine for my wet grinder and my wet saw. I wear the water on my back and give it a pump or 2 every now and then.

I mostly cut 10mm or 6mm glasses. I have 2 pairs of running pliers, one like the Leponit (when I bought them a long time ago, they were called PPG running pliers, and cost more), and Toyo heavy glass running pliers. I use the Toyos for every cut over 2" wide. I use the steel ones for 1" wi...

Hi Bert, Thank you very much! It's very hard to get that kind of information. But what about the second layer? Most float is 3 or 4 mm, the second layer also tin side down? Hoping you can help me :-) If there is no color inside, I would put the air side up. When I use color, I prefer to use colors ...

thank you for ypur reply I need no Mica Powder but flakes in different size.. So Sepp Leaf has as well ? thank you mike http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL493/2241093/4397676/410868528.jpg Those pictures look like mica flakes. That is completely different. The micas I refer to have been industrially...

First, the tin side goes down. This will result in a smooth bottom. Air side down results in rough bottom. Second, if you are going to slump the glass, the tin side will fog up where it is being compressed (inside of a bowl shape). So, if you are doing a bowl. put the air side up. Remember that floa...

fire multiple thinner layers so air does not get trapped. The air insulates the glass below. Kevin, the refractory mold sends gas out. When the glass is fluid enough, it blows bubbles. I had this problem @1990, casting inch thick bas relief panels. I gave up before I solved the problem. Years later...

The other solution is to hold at 1350 or 1360 for quite a bit longer. This will keep the glass stiff enough to not blow any bubbles. It may not yield the look you want though. Let us know if the sandbed works.

What is the mold made of? if it is a cast refractory, they can outgas. You might try placing it on a bed of sand, so the gas has an easier path to escape by.

Bottle glass is formulated so it can be machine blown in to a hot iron mold, and then stiffen up as fast as possible, so it won't deform. This is not an ideal quality for those who wish to reform the glass.

A couple of decades ago, I visited Murano. Every shop I went in to used a "garage: for annealing. This was a large brick oven that was set at a temperature, probably 920ºF. At the end of the day, they would shut off the heat and let it cool. I was pretty much shocked. They have been at this for...

Only once did I experience a big sheet of glass warping. I discovered a fairly large gap between bricks that are just placed around my perimeter. I heated the glass back to anneal soak, re-annealed, and then it un-warped. I have seen pictures of people firing glass very close to kiln walls. I would ...

Yep, Kevin....a workshop full of woodworking tools, but, as Bert notes, I now have circle moulds that fit inside each other perfectly. (I also forgot to take them out of the plastic bag when I got home and being wet, they developed their own mould. That was cured by leaving them out to dry. :D Last...